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WTB or swap .. Stanley #40 scrub plane

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Forum topic by chrisstef posted 09-20-2010 07:09 PM 1918 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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chrisstef

15676 posts in 2473 days


09-20-2010 07:09 PM

I have the anticipation of doing a coffee table project with hand tools only for sizing and finishing the lumber. If anyone is interested id like to make a trade for a #40 stanley scrub plane for some reclaimed lumber i have acquired. In the pile of reclaimed there is some nice straight grained doug fir, some heart pine, and some great looking oak, and even a mixed in chunk of chestnut. The lumber came from an 1880’s post and beam house. Mostly random width and thickness ranging from 6/4 to 2/4, widths up to 18”, and nothing shorter than 6’. I am located in CT. I can send pics if interested.

Chris

-- rock, chalk, jayhawk


12 replies so far

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swirt

2118 posts in 2438 days


#1 posted 09-20-2010 08:30 PM

A scrub plane is a handy thing. However, don’t feel you have to buy into the Stanley hype that it has to be a dedicated Stanley 40. (remember, Stanley’s logic model was to have a specialized plane for everything.) A #5 with a cambered blade can be a great scrub plane and in my opinion offers better qualities for scrubbing than the narrow short #40. If you already have a #5, pick up an extra blade and grind it with a heavy camber and you are all set to go. Cheap stanley knockoffs serve pretty well at this too and you get pick them up for almost nothing. My personal favorite for a scrub is a Stanley Handyman 1205. They often sell on ebay for ~$5. The blades are solid, the construction is fair and the totes are larger and more comfortable for the knuckle busting work of scrubbing

Here is an ebay search for them

-- Galootish log blog, http://www.timberframe-tools.com

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chrisstef

15676 posts in 2473 days


#2 posted 09-20-2010 10:14 PM

Swirt,

That’s a pretty good call .. i actually just picked up a stanley handyman 1204, but i do have a junky #5 that im sure i could convert into a scrub. I like the way your think, now maybe ill have to change my post and look for some other tool i had my eyes on. Thanks.

Chris

-- rock, chalk, jayhawk

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swirt

2118 posts in 2438 days


#3 posted 09-20-2010 10:53 PM

The 1204 will work just fine too.
Here is a bit of help on deciding what radius to use for cambering the iron.

-- Galootish log blog, http://www.timberframe-tools.com

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Timberdoodle

2 posts in 2392 days


#4 posted 09-23-2010 12:27 AM

i second the motion of making your own, i have a no. 5 convert and a no. 3 for the same job..

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chrisstef

15676 posts in 2473 days


#5 posted 09-23-2010 09:22 PM

that too funny boisejoe .. ive been in that record shop about 10 years ago to see a band play upstairs. Ill have to make a visit to see him, my mother grew up in that town, and i grew up a town over

-- rock, chalk, jayhawk

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489tad

3100 posts in 2478 days


#6 posted 09-24-2010 02:47 PM

I was born in Waterbury, still have family there. I’ll have to check out the store when we go back in the summer. I’ll have to swing by Bacco’s too.

-- Dan, Naperville IL, I.G.N.

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sikrap

1121 posts in 2825 days


#7 posted 09-24-2010 10:11 PM

Another vote here for Walt. His prices are reasonable and he’s a great guy. I have a question on the “conversion” of a #5 (or any other model) to a scrub. I get cambering the blade, but how do you deepen the mouth so you can take nice thick shavings?

-- Dave, Colonie, NY

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swirt

2118 posts in 2438 days


#8 posted 09-24-2010 10:16 PM

I’ve never had to open the mouth on either my #5 or my Handyman 1205 when setting them up as a scrub. They were sufficiently open…just slide the frog back as far as it will go. If it was necessary though, a bit of work with a file would not take long.

-- Galootish log blog, http://www.timberframe-tools.com

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swirt

2118 posts in 2438 days


#9 posted 09-24-2010 10:20 PM

Should point out, a true scrub can take a deeper swipe, but it is half as wide. A#5ish can be set to a tad bit more than half the depth of a true scrub but since is takes a shaving nearly twice as wide, it will essentially remove the same amount of wood in the same number of strokes. In theory, the strokes from the wider plane do probably take a bit more effort due to cutting/tearing more fibers but I have not found a noticeable difference.

-- Galootish log blog, http://www.timberframe-tools.com

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chrisstef

15676 posts in 2473 days


#10 posted 09-24-2010 10:24 PM

489tad,

Talk about a small world … Bacco’s pizza is the best and is still my favorite (no mozzerella just grated parmesean for me), but i think that either Sammy Bacco or one of the other pizza makers has since left the restaurant and opened up Mario’s Apizza just past Municipal Stadium. My grandparents and most of my family grew up towards the top of Long Hill in Waterbury, and some have moved over to Bunker Hill.

-- rock, chalk, jayhawk

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chrisstef

15676 posts in 2473 days


#11 posted 09-24-2010 10:26 PM

Swirt,

I just finished up making a new handle for the #5 i plan on converting to a scrub … had some 100 year old reclaimed QS Oak .. ill have to post some pics once i camber the blade and put the ole girl back together again. Thanks for the good money saving idea.

-- rock, chalk, jayhawk

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swirt

2118 posts in 2438 days


#12 posted 09-24-2010 11:03 PM

YES please show me what you did with that. I leave the trademark blue on it for my son (2yo) who calls it the “Boo plane” as opposed to all my other “brown planes”. But someday I would like to make it a little less like a toy. ;)

-- Galootish log blog, http://www.timberframe-tools.com

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