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PM1000 or PM2000 3hp

6K views 23 replies 12 participants last post by  William_D 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hi all, first post and would appreciate some + and - between the 2 saws above in a 52" rail. The 1000 would need a base about $100 as I will need to move either saw against the wall. So with the mobile base there would be about a $700 difference between the 2. Although $3,059 is a lot of money, I only want to purchase my tools once so I try and get quality tools. I do not have a table saw now, and have not used anything other than a Boch contractor saw that my buddy has. I am building a new house now so 230 volt motors are not a issue. Yes I am set on the PM due to the accuracy of the 2 and warranty. I am leaning towards the 2000 but am open to either. Also I should note that I will be using it largely for cabinets, built ins and furniture.

Thanks guys!
 
#2 ·
I've been looking at the same decision, except in the 30" versions, so I'm curious to see what people say.

Personally, I'll probably go for the PM1000, as I just don't need the extra power for the hobby type (bit of furniture, bit of cabinets, bit of whatever) stuff I do - I can resaw on the bandsaw and I'm in no hurry when pushing stuff thru the tablesaw. Also, the total volume of what I do is minuscule compared to a prod'n shop, so I think I am OK with the lower powered saw, which saves money and is more convenient (weight, power).

One person did recommend to me that its much easier to resell a 3 HP saw …... which may be a consideration for some but my plan is for a 'forever' saw.

Having said all that, I know a lot of more experienced people are going to say to get the 3 HP saw. Good luck with it in any case.

Any idea when Powermatic will have their next sale?
 
#4 ·
If you have the Tim Taylor frame of mind, as most of us, you may as well go ahead and get the 2000. But I'd bet that the hobbyists among us would do just fine with the 1000 and never need the larger saw. I went from a Delta contractor saw (43-444) to a Unisaw and didn't notice one bit of difference in the projects I completed. Sure, I cut wood faster…but in terms of accuracy and capability to do what i did, the CS was absolutely adequate. But the Tim Taylor in me was much happier; and that's worth something.
 
#5 ·
William_D,

I have no experience with either of the saw's you mentioned, but have owned a 1990's PM66 5hp table saw for about 20 years. The PM 66 replaced a Craftsman 1-1/2 hp table saw. As a result I looked at these two articles and, based on my experience, conclude that if you this is a long time purchase, the PM2000 is a better choice. The reason is the additional power. An underpowered saw can make ripping a dense wood or a thick piece of lumber a frustrating and slow chore, probably leading to a lot of burning of the cut. Also, at some point you may wish to equip the saw with an 8" dado stack. It is nice to shop for a dado stack without a concern over its weight and whether there is enough power to cut a wide dado. A 52" fence capacity is also a nice feature when breaking down plywood. After the sting from writing a big check passes, I doubt you have buyer's regret with the more powerful saw.

PM1000…
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/tools/tool-test-powermatic-pm1000-table-saw

PM2000…
http://www.finewoodworking.com/2006/06/01/10-in-cabinet-saw-pm2000-review
 
#6 ·
I would not hesitate to get the PM2000. I sized up last minute on my SawStop and am glad I did.

It is superior and it does not matter if you are a pro or if this is for your woodworking hobby. You will have a better experience, more capable and safer saw. When is the last time you wished you bought the cheaper version os something because the quality was better than you wanted?

Love your tools, buy them right, and keep them for a very long time.

My last upgrade was the 1500 bandsaw, holy smokes! It is a beast. So glad I moved up from a smaller Jet or Rikon. Never looking back.
 
#7 ·
Thanks guys for all the great input. Right now I am looking at the PM2000 with the built in router table. Main reason I am looking at this is it is only $300 more with the lift and makes going with the 2000 a bit more palatable if I can hopefully save some space by not getting a router table. As my needs progress I will likely buy a router table (like the wood pecker) and sell the table and legs that come with my PM2000 and go with a work bench configuration. The legs seem much sturdier than the standard legs.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015YNSFY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2ES7Y34KNMNZZ&coliid=I5XZEV9RE9L8T

So I guess the next question is what should my next tool be? I am getting the Dust collector with my saw so that will be taken care of. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TPTU9O/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2ES7Y34KNMNZZ&coliid=I2X9B15T9NIBK0

That leaves me a bit undecided if I should go with a jointer next or a 15 in Planar. Will get the spherical head regardless . .

Thanks!
 
#8 ·
The jointer/planer discussion has advocates on both sides as to what comes first. Probably a planer (says me) since there are a few other ways to joint a board. You can flatten a board with a planer (on a sled), though it's not the most user friendly way to do it.
 
#10 · (Edited by Moderator)
If you have 220v and the budget, absolutely get the PM2000. Even though they look similar on the outside, under the hood, the PM2000 is far more substantial. There's also a significant difference between 1.75hp and 3hp. It's not hard to slow up a 1.75hp saw, so it'll ultimately work a lot harder, and is more sensitive to setup and blade selection. The PM2000 has a deeper table too (30" vs 27"), and there's nearly a 200# difference between the two saws.



I have to ask….why not a Saw Stop PCS 3hp with the T-Glide fence upgrade? It's more substantial than the PM1000, has a 3hp option, is at least as accurate, and won't bite the hand that feeds it.
 
#11 ·
OK, I am decided on the Powermatic 1792001K which is the PM2000 with the router lift. Question is should I buy local or internet? Also with local dealers do I have some negation room if I buy say dust collector, table saw, joiner and Planar . . all Powermatic? I would think with close to $10K to spend they must have some wiggle room . . or am I better off waiting for a 15% OFF DEAL?
 
#12 ·
I have the PM2000. The bigger table and extra weight are helpful for cutting sheet goods for cabinet work. Highly recommended, a beautifully built machine. Be sure you have room for the 52" fence, this is a big piece of machinery!

I added a custom router table to mine with a woodpeckers plate. Works well except you can't leave it setup if you need to rip a wide cut.
 
#13 ·
OK, I am decided on the Powermatic 1792001K which is the PM2000 with the router lift. Question is should I buy local or internet? Also with local dealers do I have some negation room if I buy say dust collector, table saw, joiner and Planar . . all Powermatic? I would think with close to $10K to spend they must have some wiggle room . . or am I better off waiting for a 15% OFF DEAL?

- William_D
One of the benefits of buying Powermatic or Jet is their dealer support. It's part of the pricing, so is prudent to take advantage if you can. I wouldn't mail order unless the savings were substantial.
 
#14 ·
You can wait for a 15% off deal, and never get the saw. I think the recent sales from PM were 10%, though Jet still gives 15. I kinda think you won't have any negotiating to do on the saw, either. But you might get some better discounts on some of the other stuff if you make it a package deal. But that's just a guess.
 
#15 ·
William_D,

Jointer or planer next? When milling rough lumber, both are nice to have. Also, I personally prefer machines dedicated to a task rather than combo machines, that is, a jointer and planer as separate machines. However, I have looked into the planer/jointer combo machines. In particular, I looked at the Hammer line, although there are probably other more affordable jointer/planer combo machines. I mention it since it is an option that you may find attractive, especially if space is at a premium in your shop.
 
#16 ·
Good decision on the 3 hp saw. I've used 1 and 2 hp saws in the past, but have had a 3 hp unisaw for 20 years now. One delta cabinet saw that a friend has is 1.5 hp I think. It is extremely frustrating to use as it bogs down ripping 2×4s.

I like your idea of the router lift in the extension-that's where mine has been for 15 years. It's a perfect set up. I have a shaper, so no thoughts to adding a router table.

Your next tool should be a jointer, no question in my mind. Getting square edges is key to good glue ups and you can buy surfaced lumber for 90% of your needs. But you will soon want the planer, so face up to it.

Maybe a compromise is buy both with straight knives for the same money as the planer with a helical head. Sure the helical head is nice, but I'm not sure it's worth it for a hobby shop. For example, I used the $1000 I was going to spend on a helical head for my 20 inch planer and bought a vintage Logan 400 metal lathe with a boatload of tooling. It's all about priorities I guess.
 
#18 ·
I would not hesitate to get the PM2000. I sized up last minute on my SawStop and am glad I did.

It is superior and it does not matter if you are a pro or if this is for your woodworking hobby. You will have a better experience, more capable and safer saw. When is the last time you wished you bought the cheaper version os something because the quality was better than you wanted?

Love your tools, buy them right, and keep them for a very long time.

My last upgrade was the 1500 bandsaw, holy smokes! It is a beast. So glad I moved up from a smaller Jet or Rikon. Never looking back.

- BroncoBrian
Excellent point. Never wished I bought something cheaper, but have wished I bought something better more than once!
 
#22 · (Edited by Moderator)
I have the PM1000 and have never had a problem with it bogging down even when making 3" cuts in Hardwood. I do always keep a really sharp blade in. I would not hesitate to buy it again.

I also highly recommend the lift table. I used a Bench Dog Table and Incra lift. I built a cabinet for both to add mobility and slightly raise them to my preferred level.

Table Wood Thickness planer Machine tool Gas


Wood Floor Flooring Hardwood Gas
 

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