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Forum topic by moke posted 02-10-2017 05:41 PM 618 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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moke

1034 posts in 2612 days


02-10-2017 05:41 PM

I am in the process of exploring other finishes and doing some experimentation. What do you think of the Shellawax and Shella EEE finishes. Does anyone have experiences with it’s durability and lasting?

I also would like to try this on some segmented pens….. I have literally made several hundreds of CA finished pens….I hate it, I always have. It’s caustic, it is not particularly hard…..so I have since constructed a home made version of a slow spinning dryer for Poly….and then I tried Solrez…these are slow….like multiple days slow. I tried the General finish friction wax and I was not impressed either. I recently saw a pen finished with Shella products and while it was not a thick, plastic type finish, it was nice. I just am not sure at how it holds up and I am seeking advice.

Also if you have other ideas, let me know please. I am interested in all kinds of turnings…not just pens.
Thanks
Mike

-- Mike


4 replies so far

View gwilki's profile

gwilki

170 posts in 1309 days


#1 posted 02-10-2017 06:07 PM

I’ve used the eee and shellawaxcombo on many pens. I like the look, but it does not hold up like a harder finish will. On bowls and other pieces that don’t get handled like pens do, the combo holds up well and produces a nice sheen. I’ve found the key is to put on a few coats of the shellawax and get the piece spinning fast enough that you can get a lot of heat build up – finger burning heat. When cool, the finish is quite hard.

I’ve used the shellawax without first using the EEE and found little difference as long as the finish on the wood before applying the shellawax has been sanded up to 600 or higher.

-- Grant Wilkinson, Ottawa ON

View Wildwood's profile

Wildwood

2186 posts in 1970 days


#2 posted 02-11-2017 04:12 PM

Not a big fan of either Shellawax (cream or liquid) although guy from Australia over at IAP extolled the virtues of the stuff couple years ago. If remember right he just used the Shellawax cream to finish his pens. Only down side for me is cost of both Shellawax & EEE ultra shine polish.

When fist got into pen used Hut’s Crystal Coat (shellac) based finish. Have a couple of Slimlines been sitting glove box & door pocket for over 15 years. They still look good with limit use.

When I shifted away from CA finish for pens started using Lacquer and happy with out come. I sprayed the stuff from rattle cans, dipped in Deft lacquer, and wiped it on. Yes takes more time compared with friction finishes. Normally re-coat times ran about 15 to 30 minutes between coats. Lot faster over poly and wiping varnish products.

Ed Brown sells these products Craftcoat and Woodturners finish seems to like both products. I picked up on you not liking that general finish.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uhsR9XpES-8
https://www.exoticblanks.com/Craft-Coat-Finish-6-oz-Size.html

-- Bill

View moke's profile

moke

1034 posts in 2612 days


#3 posted 02-11-2017 05:59 PM

So Wildwood,
I’m confused…you shoot it on from a rattle can then wipe on over the top? what have you settled on?
Thanks
Mike

-- Mike

View Wildwood's profile

Wildwood

2186 posts in 1970 days


#4 posted 02-12-2017 08:30 PM

I used only rattle can alone or bought a quart can of brushing lacquer. Used 1 quart Deft brand for years but cannot buy it here so use whatever the big box stores have available. I either thin lacquer (50/50 mix) for first or even second coat and wipe on with lathe running. Will refine the mix for wiping on additional coats simply use less thinner. I also dipped pen blanks into lacquer but that takes little longer and good technique to avoid build up on bottom of the pen barrel.

Some people bothered by the smell of both lacquer & lacquer thinner.

-- Bill

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