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Sawdust + glue as a filler.

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Forum topic by Carloz posted 02-09-2017 08:07 PM 977 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Carloz

989 posts in 431 days


02-09-2017 08:07 PM

Practically everyone says do it. I tried with titebond and got disastrous results. Stain lays very differently in such “filler” creating unsightly spots. Maybe I should use different glue ?


17 replies so far

View mrbob's profile

mrbob

182 posts in 409 days


#1 posted 02-09-2017 08:15 PM

Tite Bond makes a colored glue, drys about the shade of Cherry.

View jerryminer's profile

jerryminer

812 posts in 1281 days


#2 posted 02-09-2017 08:36 PM

Yeah—doesn’t work well for stained projects. Better for clear finishes.

-- Jerry, making sawdust professionally since 1976

View Madmark2's profile

Madmark2

373 posts in 428 days


#3 posted 02-09-2017 08:41 PM

Sawdust is all endgrain. If it absorbs glue, it can’t absorb stain. Sawdust & glue seems like a good idea, it ain’t.

M

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

4769 posts in 2333 days


#4 posted 02-09-2017 09:18 PM

It’s never worked to my satisfaction.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View Kazooman's profile

Kazooman

871 posts in 1792 days


#5 posted 02-09-2017 09:22 PM

Have you ever stained a piece where there was some glue squeeze out that you missed? Stain doesn’t penetrate glue. There may well be some type of filler that takes stain like the surrounding wood, but I am not aware of any. Same goes for penetrating finishes like oils. They won’t penetrate the glue. Timber mate makes a great filler, but you can’t have big gobs of it on a piece and hope for great results. I have advocated the sawdust and glue filler on many occasions. That said, I would only use it to fill a small imperfection like a tear out in a dove tail, and I haven’t stained a project for a long time.

You might get better results if you apply a sealer before the stain. That might help even things out.

View alittleoff's profile

alittleoff

449 posts in 1117 days


#6 posted 02-09-2017 11:45 PM

A small Crack or seam can be filled with sawdus. I use it sometimes if the Crack or seam is SMALL only. You can try using titebond Hide Glue. It takes a stain. To a degree.
Gerald

View Rich Simon's profile

Rich Simon

25 posts in 1206 days


#7 posted 02-10-2017 12:04 AM

I keep hide glue for just this purpose and it works well. Dries clear. Admit though I can’t recall quality of staining over it vs surrounding.

View shipwright's profile

shipwright

7783 posts in 2638 days


#8 posted 02-10-2017 12:35 AM

Hide glue and fine sanding dust is the standard for french marquetry filling.
Hide glue and sawdust would work better than any pva of course because it doesn’t block insides and it dries hard enough to sand well.

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fibreglass trees. http://thecanadianschooloffrenchmarquetry.com/

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

2717 posts in 1321 days


#9 posted 02-10-2017 12:52 AM

Tight joints eliminates the need for filler ;-)

I try to fill small gaps with a small wedge of wood rather than filler. The glue doesn’t matter in that case.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View Jack Lewis's profile

Jack Lewis

208 posts in 918 days


#10 posted 02-10-2017 04:17 AM

In woodturning I use almost exclusively CA and very fine saw dust. I sift sawdust into dark, light and mixed shades to better match the area I am repairing. I use a tea strainer to sift into storage containers and mark the contents.

-- "Now we are getting no where, thanks to me"

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

2577 posts in 2762 days


#11 posted 02-10-2017 01:35 PM

I do this often when doing inlays. Best if only used in very small voids. Sawdust is too coarse for this, so I only use sanding powder from my random orbital sander mixed with white glue. It will not take stain nor finish all that well. Titebond Liquid Hide glue will take clear finish well. It does darken the filler a bit though.

-- No PHD, but I have a GED and my DD 214

View runswithscissors's profile

runswithscissors

2565 posts in 1865 days


#12 posted 02-11-2017 09:38 PM

Epoxy with fine sanding dust works very well. Will take stain, but will be darker than the base wood. 5 minute epoxy works fine. I like to buy it in 4 oz. bottles, as it is much more economical than the little tubes.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

View jeffswildwood's profile

jeffswildwood

2575 posts in 1817 days


#13 posted 02-11-2017 09:50 PM

Stain will not adhere to titebond. Just a residue on your project will not stain. So mixing with sawdust gets the same results. I have had luck with old elmers though.

-- We all make mistakes, the trick is to fix it in a way that says "I meant to do that".

View Matt's profile

Matt

159 posts in 791 days


#14 posted 02-12-2017 12:40 AM

I’ve done it, and it works great when the finish is and enamel paint.

-- My "projects" always look better with beer goggles.

View youdidntbuildthat72's profile

youdidntbuildthat72

18 posts in 361 days


#15 posted 02-14-2017 10:03 PM

What if you stained the sawdust first then use clear glue to fill the crack or gap? would that work better than using sawdust and glue and then trying to stain it?

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