Specs for Saw Blade - Need Advice

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Forum topic by becikeja posted 02-06-2017 12:58 PM 548 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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926 posts in 2960 days

02-06-2017 12:58 PM

I have been summoned by my daughter and son-in-law to assist (which means I will do all the work) in laying a laminate floor. It doesn’t look that difficult, but its clear the cuts will have to be smooth. I have never cut laminate flooring so I’m not sure how much chip-out to expect or even which saw blade to use. I have seen “laminate flooring” blades, but not convinced they are worth the money? I assume just a high tooth blade 72-84 should be fine with maybe some painters tape across the finish.
We will use a 12” miter saw for the cross cuts, and 10” table saw for the rip cuts.

Looking for any advice you can offer, especially on what type of blade to use. Need to make sure we do this right.

Thanks for your input.

-- Don't outsmart your common sense

6 replies so far

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

5072 posts in 4108 days

#1 posted 02-06-2017 02:41 PM

Not sure what flooring you will be cutting, but most flooring (pre-finished) has an AlOx (aluminum oxide) coating. That is the same type stuff used on sand paper. It is added to retard scuffing of the flooring, and is tough on saw blades. Use carbide blades for sure, and be ready to trash ‘em after the job is done.
Cross cut with the flooring piece upside down. Rip with the upside up/\. This will minimize chipping.
Good luck. Wear knee pads.


View rwe2156's profile


3092 posts in 1628 days

#2 posted 02-06-2017 02:59 PM

Laminate is very rough on a blade so plan on wearing it out and tossing it when you’re done.

I wouldn’t necessarily buy an expensive blade and I wouldn’t worry too much about chip out because most cuts would be hidden by base trim.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View knotscott's profile


8129 posts in 3523 days

#3 posted 02-06-2017 04:37 PM

Flooring is rough on blades. A triple chip grind (TCG) will hold up best during the assault, but I understand not wanting to shell out big bucks for the task. A Hi-ATB grind will tend to abrade more rapidly, so not a great idea to use a really nice blade with a Hi-ATB grind…there won’t be much left of it when done.

Cripe Distribution sells a “10 Bosch TCG for $30 +s/h that should do the job. You may find a 12” TCG from them also if you do a sort of their listings….they do combine s/h to cut costs.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Lazyman's profile


2527 posts in 1535 days

#4 posted 02-06-2017 05:06 PM

You didn’t mention what kind of saw you are planning to use (table, handheld circular, miter). Some tape along the cuts is one way to reduce chip out but also making sure that the show side is facing the cutting tooth (top on table and miter, bottom on circular saw) and using a new zero clearance insert for whatever blade you use, if using a table or miter saw, can help reduce the chip out on the non-show side as well. If you end up needing to make any rip cuts, making a scoring cut first can also reduce chip out.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View Davevand's profile


63 posts in 983 days

#5 posted 02-06-2017 06:08 PM

When I installed my engineered flooring I did not worry much about the cuts. All the cutting was around the perimeter and was covered up by trim.

View becikeja's profile


926 posts in 2960 days

#6 posted 02-07-2017 01:45 AM

Thanks for the input

-- Don't outsmart your common sense

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