Crosscut with new freud blade

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Forum topic by chef57 posted 02-05-2017 04:12 PM 1464 views 0 times favorited 33 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View chef57's profile


17 posts in 718 days

02-05-2017 04:12 PM

Topic tags/keywords: freud crosscut question

Hi all, I am new to woodworking and I have just installed a new
freud crosscut blade on my tablesaw. The crosscuts are coming out with one very smooth side one very rough side. The piece of wood on the left side of the blade is as smooth as can be but the piece that comes off the right side of the blade is as rough as can be. My dewalt crosscut blade didn’t do that. Does anyone have any idea what might be causing this?

By the way I’ve tried the same cut with and without a zero clearancee insert, with and without a blade stabilizer, and with the miter gauge in both slots. No matter what I change I get the same exact results.

If the definition of insanity is doing the same thing again and again and expecting different results what is doing different things over and getting the same result? :-|

33 replies so far

View Jack Lewis's profile

Jack Lewis

373 posts in 1318 days

#1 posted 02-05-2017 05:08 PM

I use those blades for segmented bowl cutting. Get glue-up ready cuts both sides. The only difference I can see if the riff knife is removed from my saw for cross cuts. Just a suggestion.
An after thought, check the run-out of saw arbor and/or squareness to miter track.

-- "PLUMBER'S BUTT! Get over it, everybody has one"

View Madmark2's profile


409 posts in 828 days

#2 posted 02-05-2017 05:33 PM

That doesn’t look like a new blade – too much paint scraped. My guess is that either the blade is flanged (warped, lay on known flat surface to check) or that the miter gauge is off.


View knotscott's profile


8180 posts in 3615 days

#3 posted 02-05-2017 05:44 PM

Make sure the arbor nut isn’t too tight….should only be snug, not deforming the blade.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Rich's profile


4012 posts in 829 days

#4 posted 02-05-2017 05:49 PM

Since your DeWalt blade didn’t do that, it must be a problem with the Freud blade.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

View coxhaus's profile


93 posts in 1134 days

#5 posted 02-05-2017 06:12 PM

I had a problem with my old Delta contractor saw where the table was out of adjustment and when a piece of wood passed over the back of the blade the carbide on a couple of teeth would hit one side and etch it. Can the carbides be bigger on the new blade to where they hit and the old ones did not?

I run a Unisaw now in great alignment with a Freud crosscut blade with no problems and 2 smooth sides on the wood after a cut.

View Woodknack's profile


12468 posts in 2620 days

#6 posted 02-05-2017 06:35 PM

Why is your new blade scratched up like an old blade? Take it back and exchange it.

-- Rick M,

View chef57's profile


17 posts in 718 days

#7 posted 02-05-2017 06:51 PM

Thank you all for the information. The blade was brand new out of the package 4 days ago. When I put the blade on I cut a piece of scrap wood about 1-1/2 wide by 1-1/2 wide by 6 inches long. I used my miter gauge and made 2 cuts, both came off rough on the right side. This morning I cut about 10 pieces of cedar 1/2×3 x 15 inches. I cut it into approximately 3 inch blocks for our closets. Again just the right side was rough.

By the way I tried it with the riving in place and not in place, same result.

As far as the wear goes before I cut anything else I cut through a zero clearance insert with that blade, that’s the only place the wear could have come from.

I’m stepping out but I’ll try the other suggestions and check the blade for flatness later today or tomorrow morning.

For what it’s worth I also have a brand new Freud glue line rip blade and it cuts beautifully. The lines come out so smooth on both sides.

I’m starting to think there might be a problem with that blade since the glue line blade as well as my old dewalt blades all cut just fine.

View William Shelley's profile

William Shelley

609 posts in 1709 days

#8 posted 02-05-2017 06:57 PM

I would take it back to the store.

The store probably got scammed. I worked at Home Depot for a number of years and I saw multiple occasions of people buying a sawblade, taking it home and then putting their old one in the package, and returning it. Many times the cashier has no idea what a 4 year old sawblade looks like.

-- Woodworking from an engineer's perspective

View knotscott's profile


8180 posts in 3615 days

#9 posted 02-05-2017 08:31 PM

I’d exchange it. The LU88 is a really nice blade….it should give better results than what you’re getting.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View oldnovice's profile


7380 posts in 3607 days

#10 posted 02-05-2017 08:55 PM

Never seen results like that before because I only use Forrest saw blades; not cheap but very nice results!

-- "I never met a board I didn't like!"

View Redoak49's profile


3743 posts in 2228 days

#11 posted 02-05-2017 08:56 PM

I use that model blade also and get good cuts.

I would examine the teeth closely and make certain none are damaged. With ATB and Hi ATB, the tips can be damaged.

I would also check that the blade is parallel to the miter slots and miter gauge is perpendicular to the blade. This is a good check to do routinely on a table saw.

If you feel like doing another check, you could also check and see if the teeth are all the same. You could mount a dial indicator with a magnetic base on your table saw and measure the relative difference in the teeth. You would measure every other tooth on the right side.

Or you could skip all of this and return the blade.

View chef57's profile


17 posts in 718 days

#12 posted 02-05-2017 09:08 PM

I’ve squared my table to my blade, it’s .001. From front to back on the right side my dewalt crosscut 60 tooth blade is about .002. This blade was .004 from front to back on the same tooth. Still we’re talking about 4 thousandths of an inch. It’s hard to believe that is what’s causing the results. At any rate it’s going back and I’m getting a replacement.

Again thank you all very much. It’s nice to have a place to turn when you need help.

View Woodknack's profile


12468 posts in 2620 days

#13 posted 02-05-2017 09:51 PM

Yeah I think somewhere along the line someone switched a used blade for a new one. I have the exact same blade, mine is years old and looks better than yours.

-- Rick M,

View Matt Rogers's profile

Matt Rogers

110 posts in 2210 days

#14 posted 02-05-2017 10:24 PM

I would guess that the sled/miter gauge/fence is not parallel to the blade. This would cause one side to get cut on the the teeth on the front of the blade and then track clear of the teeth on the rear. The other side would track into the rear teeth and get an extra raking cut from those teeth. If you can cut a piece of hardwood that will not tear out, you may see the saw marks on one of the pieces going all //// and the marks on the other either \\\\ or /\/\/\/ from the blade cutting on the down stroke in the front or on the upstroke in the rear.

Hope that made any sense.

-- Matt Rogers, and

View ArtMann's profile


1220 posts in 1056 days

#15 posted 02-06-2017 02:01 AM

I have seen the problem many times. Matt has already nailed it. The blade is almost certainly not parallel to the miter slots. If you do a careful alignment, the problem will go away. The chances of a defective blade causing the problem are very low.

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