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planing large table top

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Forum topic by willhime posted 02-01-2017 05:58 AM 757 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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willhime

99 posts in 1374 days


02-01-2017 05:58 AM

Topic tags/keywords: resource jig tip question trick

I made this table I realize now the most difficult way probably. I made 3-4 board sections of edge grain, then glued it to the next section of edge grain because my planer can only do 12” or less at a time. I’m trying to figure out the best way to get a clean level surface now. I’ve made a router planer jig in the past for cutting boards, but this is obviously much too large for that…at just over 37” wide. The longest hand plane I have is a 14”. Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.

- Will

-- Burn your fire for no witness


14 replies so far

View Rick_M's profile

Rick_M

10610 posts in 2215 days


#1 posted 02-01-2017 06:20 AM

I flattened all my tables with hand planes but I don’t see why it would be too wide for a router planing jig, just make wider rails.

-- http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

View OSU55's profile

OSU55

1423 posts in 1824 days


#2 posted 02-01-2017 01:08 PM

A 14” plane will do it, as well as a longer cross slide for the router. The router may sag a bit in the middle, but will rough it out, and the plane can finish it.

View dday's profile

dday

129 posts in 1264 days


#3 posted 02-01-2017 01:43 PM

Might be too late for this one, but I did a similar thing. I took sections of 6 boards, glued and bolted together, ran them through my planer ( had to build an extension table front and back because of the weight) to get them to be the exact same thickness, then laid them on a perfectly flat service before gluing them together and running threaded rod through all of them. They were almost perfectly flat after that and required minimum sanding.

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willhime

99 posts in 1374 days


#4 posted 02-01-2017 05:43 PM

the problem with the wider rails is that they’ll have to be free standing from the floor, but it’s looking like that’s my only option. So I guess I’ll try that then hand-plane finish it.

dday- yeah, it’s a little late for that. Lesson learned though. That’s kind of how I planned to do my next one though so it’s good to know that works well.

-- Burn your fire for no witness

View mike02130's profile

mike02130

167 posts in 507 days


#5 posted 02-01-2017 05:57 PM

Belt sander

-- Google first, search forums second, ask questions later.

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

5459 posts in 2648 days


#6 posted 02-01-2017 06:15 PM

I take my large tabletops to a commercial shop in my area. They have an amazing 50” wide planer / drum sander. It hits the surface with a helical planer head, then two grits of sandpaper, all in a single pass.

Their labor rates are quite reasonable, and it saves me a lot of work.
And talk about flat. Wow, perfectly smooth and flat.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

7655 posts in 2749 days


#7 posted 02-01-2017 06:52 PM

I vote for the sander. You have grain changing directions all over the surface and that pine is rather soft and likely to splinter and tear. You have already planed the 4x laminates, should you should be rather close on the final glue-up. SAND it.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

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KelleyCrafts

2680 posts in 574 days


#8 posted 02-01-2017 09:48 PM

Rip cut it at the glue line in a few spots, run it through your planer then glue it back up.

-- http://kelleycrafts.com/ - pen blanks - knife scales - turning tools

View Carloz's profile

Carloz

963 posts in 426 days


#9 posted 02-01-2017 10:28 PM

Use your hand plane across the grain and then along. A Jointer plane would do this job better but your 14” will do.
Especially that the wood you use is very soft. Be careful around the knots to avoid tearout.

View Loren's profile (online now)

Loren

9610 posts in 3482 days


#10 posted 02-01-2017 10:33 PM

Unless you want it to look rough, take it to
a shop with a wide belt. It shouldn’t cost
more than $40 or so and will save you hours
of work.

Unless you A. like the look of tearout in pine,
B. like the look of tearout patched with putty.

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

2710 posts in 1315 days


#11 posted 02-02-2017 04:51 PM

Well, it all depends …..

What’s it for? How flat does it have to be?

How rustic do you want it to look? (Looks pretty rustic to me ;-)

I’ve got the hand planes, but that’s WAY to big a job for me.

Router sled worked fine on this bench 35” wide you just need a stout sled that won’t flex:

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View BobBlarney's profile

BobBlarney

46 posts in 970 days


#12 posted 02-02-2017 09:09 PM



Well, it all depends …..

What s it for? How flat does it have to be?

How rustic do you want it to look? (Looks pretty rustic to me ;-)

I ve got the hand planes, but that s WAY to big a job for me.

Router sled worked fine on this bench 35” wide you just need a stout sled that won t flex:

- rwe2156

Hmm, if you cut plowed across with the router sled about every 4-6 inches, you could probably finish the job quicker and with a lot less dust with the jackplane by connecting the furrows.

-- Curator, Museum of Unfinished Projects

View ArtMann's profile

ArtMann

683 posts in 651 days


#13 posted 02-03-2017 03:35 PM

Uhhh. I’m guessing the hand held belt sander was invinted after the depression. Doesn’t your policy preclude the use of such a tool?


Belt sander

- mike02130


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mike02130

167 posts in 507 days


#14 posted 02-03-2017 04:13 PM

ArtMann,

Bad guess.

The portable belt sander was invented in 1927—two years before the depression—by Porter Cable. http://ruudbaaijens.nl/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/RuudBaaijens_EPD_SandingMachine-v2.pdf

I did not ask the question, I only answered it.

I may not need post depression tools, but I do use them.

-- Google first, search forums second, ask questions later.

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