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HELP I have a finish issue and need some advice please

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Forum topic by gdshaw posted 01-31-2017 07:08 PM 425 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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gdshaw

8 posts in 314 days


01-31-2017 07:08 PM

Topic tags/keywords: oak tabletop watco danish oil finish

Hello Lumberjocks -

I have a finish issue and need some advice please.
I am a novice and just refinished an Oak kitchen table with Watco Danish Oil.
My process was as follows.

Sanded the Oak table down to bare wood with orbital sander (It was a poly finish previously (started with 120 grit, then did a 220 grit and got it to bare wood). Wiped clean with cloth. Applied Watco Danish Oil liberally and wet sanded using 320 grit wet/dry paper. I did not wet sand for very long, just 5-7 minutes. I wiped off the slurry and let it dry overnight. (I think it is important to note this work is being done in my garage and the temperature has been around 45-60 degrees Fahrenheit. throughout this entire project)

Next day I dry sanded with 320 to smooth it out. Then I wet sanded again with Watco danish oil same as day before and I let it dry overnight.

Third day, I dry sanded again and then just applied Watco danish oil 3rd coat directly without wet sanding. I let it sit 15 minutes and then wiped off with lint free tshirt. I let this dry 24 hours and then buffed it with 0000 steel wool. Wiped it off again with lint free cloth and then put it in my kitchen.

But, my problem is i am seeing oil still seep out of the wood grain in tiny dots that are surfacing hours after I wiped it down. The kids ate breakfast on it this morning and placed hot waffles directly on the table top and it left a cloudy mark where the waffles were (looks like it knocked the sheen down and turned it to a matte finish in those areas).

I did so much reading on the proper techniques for the look I wanted and thought I did this all correctly but apparently It is not completely done. Im thinking now that maybe the temperature has affected the drying/curing time and it is just not completely dry yet.??? I just want / need some help. I dont have pics but can post pics later if i need to.


17 replies so far

View Mark Shymanski's profile

Mark Shymanski

5621 posts in 3546 days


#1 posted 01-31-2017 07:16 PM

Welcome to Lumberjocks. It sounds like the Danish oil has not fully cured, cooler temperatures will slow down that process. It sounds like you did all the finishing and put it into service in a very short time, it may just need more time before eating waffles on it again :-)

-- "Checking for square? What madness is this! The cabinet is square because I will it to be so!" Jeremy Greiner LJ Topic#20953 2011 Feb 2

View gdshaw's profile

gdshaw

8 posts in 314 days


#2 posted 01-31-2017 08:08 PM

Thanks for the response Mark. Do you think there will be any issues removing the spots? I have not tried anything yet as it just happened this morn

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

4800 posts in 3794 days


#3 posted 01-31-2017 08:22 PM

Waffles directly on the table?????
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

View Dustin's profile

Dustin

404 posts in 574 days


#4 posted 01-31-2017 08:29 PM



Waffles directly on the table?????
Bill

- Bill White

Bill,
I’ll thank you to keep your culinary criticisms to yourself. Some of us regular folk are a little too down to earth for high falutin nonsense like dishes and flatware :p

-- "Ladies, if your husband says he'll get to it, he'll get to it. No need to remind him about it every 6 months."

View gdshaw's profile

gdshaw

8 posts in 314 days


#5 posted 01-31-2017 08:53 PM



Waffles directly on the table?????
Bill

- Bill White

Yes frozen waffles heated in the toaster. No syrup. Hectic in the morning, I’m doing pretty good just to get em fed. Spaghetti for dinner. Guess we should break out the plates

View RobS888's profile

RobS888

2316 posts in 1679 days


#6 posted 01-31-2017 08:55 PM

I love Watco Danish oil and use it on most things I make, but I cover tops with Arm-R-Seal. I leave it bare on trim only. I think you are asking too much from it as a dinner table finish.

If you put a drop of water on it does it bead up and sit there or sort of soak in?

-- I always suspected many gun nuts were afraid of something, just never thought popcorn was on the list.

View gdshaw's profile

gdshaw

8 posts in 314 days


#7 posted 01-31-2017 09:16 PM



I love Watco Danish oil and use it on most things I make, but I cover tops with Arm-R-Seal. I leave it bare on trim only. I think you are asking too much from it as a dinner table finish.

If you put a drop of water on it does it bead up and sit there or sort of soak in?

- RobS888

RobS888, I don’t know. I will check and see. Either way, what should I do if water does/does not bead?

View RobS888's profile

RobS888

2316 posts in 1679 days


#8 posted 02-01-2017 04:29 AM

I love Watco Danish oil and use it on most things I make, but I cover tops with Arm-R-Seal. I leave it bare on trim only. I think you are asking too much from it as a dinner table finish.

If you put a drop of water on it does it bead up and sit there or sort of soak in?

- RobS888

RobS888, I don t know. I will check and see. Either way, what should I do if water does/does not bead?

- gdshaw


If it doesn’t sit on it then it isn’t sealed. I imagine other things could soak in and spoil. I don’t think Danish oil builds a film finish or at least not much of one and you really want a sealed surface for your table. Either way I would use arm-r-seal.

This is white oak with medium walnut Danish oil and several coats of satin arm-r-seal. I use a foam brush and it seems to level itself nicely.

-- I always suspected many gun nuts were afraid of something, just never thought popcorn was on the list.

View gdshaw's profile

gdshaw

8 posts in 314 days


#9 posted 02-01-2017 03:48 PM


I love Watco Danish oil and use it on most things I make, but I cover tops with Arm-R-Seal. I leave it bare on trim only. I think you are asking too much from it as a dinner table finish.

If you put a drop of water on it does it bead up and sit there or sort of soak in?

- RobS888

RobS888, I don t know. I will check and see. Either way, what should I do if water does/does not bead?

- gdshaw

If it doesn t sit on it then it isn t sealed. I imagine other things could soak in and spoil. I don t think Danish oil builds a film finish or at least not much of one and you really want a sealed surface for your table. Either way I would use arm-r-

This is white oak with medium walnut Danish oil and several coats of satin arm-r-seal. I use a foam brush and it seems to level itself nicely.

-RobS888
Thanks for the help. I was hoping I wouldn’t have to use anything else on the table, but I will let the table cure for several more days in my warm house and then I will consider Arm-r-seal if I am not satisfied with the oil finish.
From what I read with Arm-r-seal, it looks like it requires more careful application than merely wiping on like the oil. I would be most grateful if you would care to elaborate on how you prep/apply etc

- RobS888


View OSU55's profile

OSU55

1422 posts in 1823 days


#10 posted 02-01-2017 04:23 PM

Danish oil is insufficient for a dining table top, but no need to worry. Let the oil finish cure for a couple of weeks, use a table cloth when eating to keep stuff from absorbing into it. Then do what you did with the oil but use poly (arm r seal, minwax, it doesnt matter) thinned 1:1 with mineral spirits. To get a better film build, wipe it on but not off. For more film, only thin 10-20% and brush on. Good sponge brushes work well.

View chrisstef's profile

chrisstef

17017 posts in 2840 days


#11 posted 02-01-2017 04:55 PM

Don’t be intimidated by the arm r seal. IMO its one of the most forgiving finishes out there in terms of application. Another option, that’s not oil based (read a little stinky) is their high performance. Its water based. Both product level themselves very nicely. I like to apply one to two coats full strength with a brush and then the last few coats thinned, with a rag. But, like said above, Danish oil may take up to a week to cure and fully dry.

I know all about getting the kid fed before you head out the door. Anything you can manage to stuff down their throats is a good thing!

-- Its not a crack, its a casting imperfection.

View gdshaw's profile

gdshaw

8 posts in 314 days


#12 posted 02-01-2017 07:42 PM



Don t be intimidated by the arm r seal. IMO its one of the most forgiving finishes out there in terms of application. Another option, that s not oil based (read a little stinky) is their high performance. Its water based. Both product level themselves very nicely. I like to apply one to two coats full strength with a brush and then the last few coats thinned, with a rag. But, like said above, Danish oil may take up to a week to cure and fully dry.

I know all about getting the kid fed before you head out the door. Anything you can manage to stuff down their throats is a good thing!

- chrisstef

Thanks Chrisstef . And the water based high performance will work on top of the Danish oil?

View chrisstef's profile

chrisstef

17017 posts in 2840 days


#13 posted 02-01-2017 07:46 PM

Doh. That didn’t equate in my tiny little brain for some reason. It might but I wouldn’t risk it. You could use a sealcoat of dewaxed shellac over the Danish oil and then the high performance on top of the shellac. I would go that route myself because I like shellac but its got a little learning curve to it. Stick to the oil based arm r seal.

-- Its not a crack, its a casting imperfection.

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

4475 posts in 2185 days


#14 posted 02-01-2017 08:00 PM

The kids ate breakfast on it this morning and placed hot waffles directly on the table top

Yikes, next time give them Watco for syrup and they will refinish the table. Just kidding, don’t do that. Watco is not a very durable finish for a table top, especially if you have kids. Oil base poly is about the most durable finish out there and is what I would use in that situation. You’ll have get your finish room warmer though. You can put oil base right over the Watco after it cures for at least a week. I concur w/ OSU55’s advice.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View RobS888's profile

RobS888

2316 posts in 1679 days


#15 posted 02-01-2017 09:08 PM

I love Watco Danish oil and use it on most things I make, but I cover tops with Arm-R-Seal. I leave it bare on trim only. I think you are asking too much from it as a dinner table finish.

If you put a drop of water on it does it bead up and sit there or sort of soak in?

- RobS888

RobS888, I don t know. I will check and see. Either way, what should I do if water does/does not bead?

- gdshaw

If it doesn t sit on it then it isn t sealed. I imagine other things could soak in and spoil. I don t think Danish oil builds a film finish or at least not much of one and you really want a sealed surface for your table. Either way I would use arm-r-

This is white oak with medium walnut Danish oil and several coats of satin arm-r-seal. I use a foam brush and it seems to level itself nicely.

-RobS888
Thanks for the help. I was hoping I wouldn t have to use anything else on the table, but I will let the table cure for several more days in my warm house and then I will consider Arm-r-seal if I am not satisfied with the oil finish.
From what I read with Arm-r-seal, it looks like it requires more careful application than merely wiping on like the oil. I would be most grateful if you would care to elaborate on how you prep/apply etc

- gdshaw


I just use a foam brush and lay it on pretty thick. When the top is covered I run the brush very lightly and slowly at an angle (maybe 45 degrees, the brush is behind my hand ) on the surface. When you are applying, brush off the ends from a few inches in. This way you won’t get drips and build up on the edge. Keep running around the full edge to make sure none drops off. When I think it is fully applied I look at it from a couple angles to make sure I haven’t missed any spots or have streaks, then leave it alone for 12 hours or until the next day. Don’t laught, but I get close and sniff it to make sure it is ready for the next coat. Then I lightly sand with 600 grit. I blow off all the dust, then rub my hand on the piece to see if there is any dust left, then do it all again. The piece I showed had at least 6 coats on it. The last very light sanding is at 1,000 grit.

It really is easy to work with. I started with a pint or quart, but I’m on my second gallon jug now.

-- I always suspected many gun nuts were afraid of something, just never thought popcorn was on the list.

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