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How to make this joint.... Biscuits to help with allignment?

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Forum topic by Mainiac Matt posted 01-30-2017 04:15 PM 1885 views 0 times favorited 32 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Mainiac Matt

7462 posts in 2166 days


01-30-2017 04:15 PM

I decided to use a mitered corner joint to connect the end panel style to the front panel style on this hope chest build. I originally planned on using a lock-miter bit joint, but later bailed on that idea, as I couldn’t find any examples of lock-miter joints on long edges (21” in my case).


So my plan is to just rip cut the long miter at a 45° and then use biscuits to help register the parts, like this…

Has anyone out there ever done this? If so, how did you reference to the biscuit jointer fence to get accurate and repeatable placement?

I’m also looking for some input on how to clamp these joints. I’m thinking of fabricating some ‘L’ shaped right angle clamping cauls.

Thanks in advance for any tips or help.

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!


32 replies so far

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Mainiac Matt

7462 posts in 2166 days


#1 posted 01-30-2017 04:40 PM

Or maybe I’d be better off with a spline?

but these examples are all for short joints (i.e. drawers or small jewelry boxes, etc…)

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

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Mainiac Matt

7462 posts in 2166 days


#2 posted 01-30-2017 04:51 PM

I’m seeing four different ways to line up for biscuit joints. I wonder which one is the best method…
I have to keep in mind that the sharp edge is actually quite fragile and can be easily chipped.




-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

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Rich

1981 posts in 427 days


#3 posted 01-30-2017 04:51 PM

I think your original idea with the lock miter is a good one. Whether the joint is 1 inch long or 50, the process is the same. Setup is key, but once you’ve got that dialed in, you’re set.

-- No matter how much you push the envelope, it'll still be stationery.

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Bill_Steele

217 posts in 1569 days


#4 posted 01-30-2017 05:14 PM

Hello Matt. I suggest using the lock miter. It’s self aligning and a strong joint. I see no reason why you can’t have a 21” long joint. It sounds to me like the perfect choice for this application. Here are a few projects where I’ve used this joint.

I have a few suggestions when using this router bit (lock miter or lock miter Jr.). Use the correct lock miter bit for the thickness of stock you will be using. Consider getting a setup guide offered by Infinity tools. It’s expensive, but it really does help you quickly get the bit adjusted to make accurate cuts. Make sure to have a few extra few boards on hand to test and adjust the cut of the lock miter bit before you make the cut on your project stock. It’s very important that the test boards be the same thickness as the project stock—they do not have to be the same species (e.g. use less expensive wood or leftover scraps). Use a feather board (if possible) to hold the stock against the fence (vertical cut) and against the table (horizontal cut)—this will yield a better result.

With this joint you can use regular clamps with no worry of it coming out of alignment. Other options for clamps are a band clamp.

It seems to me if you want to use the biscuit joiner that you should use the fence on joiner to set it up for the 45 degree cut. Just make a mark on each piece of stock to reference the slot. You can clamp a stop to your workbench to keep the stock from sliding while you are making the cut.

Here’s a simple option for your corner joint >

I hope this was helpful. Good luck!

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Ripper70

613 posts in 746 days


#5 posted 01-30-2017 05:31 PM

I’ve been working on a project that I’ve decided needs biscuit joinery and in my research it seems as if the PC 557 handles the mitered joint task much better than any other of the machines commonly available. This video shows this function in action.

John Heisz has a video showing how he made clamp calls for mitered joints that might be worth checking out.

-- "You know, I'm such a great driver, it's incomprehensible that they took my license away." --Vince Ricardo

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Mainiac Matt

7462 posts in 2166 days


#6 posted 01-30-2017 05:44 PM

Lock miter was my first pick… but after testing my lock miter bit on short stock, the joint was so darn tight it was very difficult to close up the joint… and that was with short scrap pieces.

It may be my bit isn’t the best, but I bailed on the concept and have already mitered my styles on the TS.

This is the second time around with hope chests for me, and on the first one I did a slot/tenon joint…

by using a mitered corner I was hoping to get away from the joint line, as no matter how well I sanded the finish flush, the discontinuity in the grain made the joint obvious.

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

9768 posts in 3266 days


#7 posted 01-30-2017 05:47 PM

Matt, a spline or the lock miter would probably be your best options.
The lock miter would be the strongest of the three you’ve considered.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

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Fred Hargis

4757 posts in 2330 days


#8 posted 01-30-2017 05:52 PM

I agree with the others, but I have joined long miters with biscuits. My joiner if the PC 557, and it has the 135º Fence setting (3rd pic in your 3rd post) and works quite well.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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Bill_Steele

217 posts in 1569 days


#9 posted 01-30-2017 05:52 PM

Here’s a video where a guy uses painters tape to clamp the joint.

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pintodeluxe

5466 posts in 2650 days


#10 posted 01-30-2017 06:02 PM

I’ve made those joints many times, with a multitude of different techniques. They all worked, but one works much better than the rest. A locking miter bit at the router table is the way to go. The joint will close easily with clamping pressure from one direction. No need for brad nails to fully seat the joint.

http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/3503

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

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Mainiac Matt

7462 posts in 2166 days


#11 posted 01-30-2017 06:29 PM

My biscuit jointer is the PC model… I’ll have to try it on some test pieces….

Thanks for the link to the Youtube guy with the painters tape. I’d seen that video before, but forgot about it.

I still hope to give the lock miter bit a try, but I had so many other first time “skill builder” aspects to this project (raised panels, cope and stick cuts, grain filling, dyeing, etc…) that I didn’t want to add another one with the lock miter bit. Next time around (I still have one more daughter to go).

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

View Rich's profile

Rich

1981 posts in 427 days


#12 posted 01-30-2017 06:32 PM



I ve made those joints many times, with a multitude of different techniques. They all worked, but one works much better than the rest. A locking miter bit at the router table is the way to go. The joint will close easily with clamping pressure from one direction. No need for brad nails to fully seat the joint.

- pintodeluxe

+1 on that. I got the Infinity Tools bit and setup jig. The setup jig is grossly overpriced in my opinion, but it does work.

-- No matter how much you push the envelope, it'll still be stationery.

View boxcarmarty's profile

boxcarmarty

15033 posts in 2197 days


#13 posted 01-30-2017 06:45 PM

Matt, locking miter or biscuit are both good choices and I have used both methods, personally, I prefer cutting a dado when building cabinets…..

-- My mind is like lighting, one brilliant flash, then its gone.....

View dschlic1's profile

dschlic1

395 posts in 1807 days


#14 posted 01-30-2017 07:11 PM

I made some 24” legs (2 1/4” square) using a locked miter bit out of red oak. Worked great. Take your time with the setup, make sure that you apply pressure downward and toward the fence with feather boards or something similar. I would made a box about 12×12 x 12 using miter joints and biscuits. It was extremely had to assemble and glue up. I do not recommend it.

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gwilki

170 posts in 1311 days


#15 posted 01-30-2017 07:53 PM

Since you’ve already cut the miters, if i were you, I would go with the spline. It’s easy to cut on the table saw and very strong.

-- Grant Wilkinson, Ottawa ON

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