Sawstop rusted

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Forum topic by Carloz posted 01-30-2017 02:16 PM 1957 views 3 times favorited 34 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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1147 posts in 763 days

01-30-2017 02:16 PM

I put a good coat of paste wax on the top of my pcs and buffed it after it dried a bit. Recently i did some trimming with a hand plane holding a maple piece in one hand and the plane in the other. The shavings fell on the saw table. Something prevented me from cleaning up and I had to leave for a week. When I returned i fund rust “curls” under each shaving as if it was some salt not maple. The wax did not help even though it was applied very thouroughly. It was raining outside so I guess the shavings attracted some water but I was surprised the wax did not help at all. Even more. It was difficult to remove from the table in order to apply rust remover. I guess I will switch to Boeshield.

34 replies so far

View TungOil's profile


1040 posts in 667 days

#1 posted 01-30-2017 02:28 PM

Sorry to hear that. I had a similar thing happen shortly after I put my new TS in as well, only with fir. I had cut about a dozen 2×4’s for a project late one afternoon and stacked them neatly on my tablesaw overnight. When I came down the next morning the moisture from the fir had already left a rust “image” of the 2×4’s on the top of my brand new TS, including an image of a knot! I had also very recently waxed the top. I was also surprised that it didn’t help much. I was able to buff most of it off with some steel wool but it’s still there.

Lesson learned for me- my next project was a material cart so I had a better place to stack my in-process materials!

-- The optimist says "the glass is half full". The pessimist says "the glass is half empty". The engineer says "the glass is twice as big as it needs to be"

View bigblockyeti's profile


5249 posts in 1892 days

#2 posted 01-30-2017 03:34 PM

What knd of humidity does your shop typically see? I don’t have A/C in my shop and the humidity can fluctuate quite a bit and despite doing something very similar more than few time and I’ve never had any rust like that on my Unisaw. I wonder what the difference in the iron might be.

-- "Lack of effort will result in failure with amazing predictability" - Me

View Carloz's profile


1147 posts in 763 days

#3 posted 01-30-2017 04:46 PM

Humidity typically is very low here but I said it rained the whole week.

I was able to buff most of it off with some steel wool but it s still there.

I do not worry too much about it. A few srays with rust remover completely eliminated it. My concern was mostly about using wax for rust prevention which appeared to not work at all. I would be better leaving the table top as is. At least the clean up would be easier.

View Ripper70's profile


1149 posts in 1080 days

#4 posted 01-30-2017 05:39 PM

I’ve used this Krud Kutter product and it seems to work well. Supposedly it inhibits rust after removing it.

-- "You know, I'm such a great driver, it's incomprehensible that they took my license away." --Vince Ricardo

View CharlesA's profile


3342 posts in 1969 days

#5 posted 01-30-2017 05:53 PM

After reading several articles on rust, I started using Boeshield with Renaissance wax over that. Works quite well. But your conditions could lead to rust no matter how you prepare.

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

View pintodeluxe's profile


5783 posts in 2985 days

#6 posted 01-30-2017 05:58 PM

I think it’s an interesting point about wax. Whether it is for a furniture finish or rust prevention, it doesn’t work very well. As far as longevity and keeping water out, it just doesn’t work.

I use Bostik Glidecote for all my cast iron tops, and haven’t had any trouble with rust. Compared to Johnson’s paste wax, it decreases sliding friction much better. Another positive, it isn’t greasy, and applies easily.

The negatives are it smells and makes you cough, so wear a respirator and gloves to apply it. Another negative is perhaps the price.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View BulldogLouisiana's profile


325 posts in 1312 days

#7 posted 01-30-2017 06:49 PM

I buy this stuff, after reading a Fine Woodworking article on rust prevention.

Only used it a few months, but havent seen any rust. I live in Louisiana and my shop is unheated. It’s been a crazy winter, It will be in the teens one week, then 70 degrees two days later.

-- There are 10 types of people in the world. Those who understand binary and those who don't.

View brtech's profile


1047 posts in 3094 days

#8 posted 01-30-2017 07:15 PM

I read the article and thought I would give CRC 3-36 a try. I was put off by the shipping charge, not the can price.

Just had an idea and checked – yup, Ace Hardware has it, and will ship for free to my local store, which is really close to me, and I’m in there fairly often anyway.

View HorizontalMike's profile


7770 posts in 3086 days

#9 posted 01-30-2017 07:57 PM

Important Note:
If you are going to use a product like Boeshield RustFree, then remember this… ONLY apply the Boeshield RustFree to a rag/cloth/steel-wool that you use to apply. I made the mistake once of “spraying” the product directly onto the cast iron. DON”T DO THAT! It will leave a nasty spray pattern on the cast iron for all of eternity.

The raw product is so strong the it immediately starts etching the cast iron.

The plus factor is that AFTER a successful application, the surface of the cast iron is actually chemically changed and more resistant to rusting.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View MrUnix's profile (online now)


7004 posts in 2371 days

#10 posted 01-30-2017 08:18 PM

The raw product is so strong the it immediately starts etching the cast iron.
- HorizontalMike

BoeShield RustFree is just a ~30% diluted phosphoric acid solution in alcohol. And yes, phosphoric acid will etch the metal. What it leaves behind is iron phosphate, which will will act as a rust inhibitor. For a heck of a lot less, you can get a gallon of phosphoric acid at the BORG for about $15 (a few bucks more than an 11oz can of BoeShield) and make your own solution. And you can use distilled water instead of alcohol.


-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View moke's profile


1253 posts in 2948 days

#11 posted 01-30-2017 09:21 PM

Hey Brad,
what is the dilution ratio for the Phosphoric acid to distilled water?

-- Mike

View AHuxley's profile


818 posts in 3493 days

#12 posted 01-30-2017 11:06 PM

Keep in mind while diluting acid always add acid to water not water to a container of acid. While it may not be an issue with low concentration acids it is still the best practice.

View bonesbr549's profile


1576 posts in 3239 days

#13 posted 01-31-2017 12:44 AM

I’ve got a free can of boeshield it you want it for shipping. I used it on My SS and hated it. Left horrible mess on it and the patterns you spoke of. I used 3m pad going in same grain direction till i got it down and then just put some johnson’s floor wax on. Thats all i’ve used since.

-- Sooner or later Liberals run out of other people's money.

View Shawn Masterson's profile

Shawn Masterson

1325 posts in 2120 days

#14 posted 01-31-2017 01:13 AM

once upon a time a long time ago this post came up. I haven’t done it, but I am considering it for myself. you can skip through the comments until you hit #13, thats where it gets interesting.

View Kelly's profile


2095 posts in 3116 days

#15 posted 01-31-2017 06:32 AM

Look into Corrosion X. It holds up and I can even set a can of Coke on the saw. Do not go the next step up because it remains tacky.

When done, put something on to minimize friction, be it wax, TopCoat or whatever.

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