New Project, refinishing the kitchen table.

  • Advertise with us

« back to Woodworking Skill Share forum

Forum topic by newbiewoodworker posted 09-10-2010 01:11 AM 3940 views 1 time favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View newbiewoodworker's profile


668 posts in 3060 days

09-10-2010 01:11 AM

Okay, so my folks want me to put my woodworking to use for them: They want me to refinish the kitchen table… I plan to charge my father for the cost of materials(danish oil and poly I imagine) and maybe a little more… after all, I am the one buying the blades and stuff..

The issue: How is the best way to sand a routed edge? I unfortunately only have my two hands and a belt sander(portable) at my disposal for sanding. And I dont have a router. The edge appears to be a round over, but not flush with the top, so that makes me uncertain. And I certainly don’t want to botch the table..

Second, is there a good way to ensure that everything is sanded to the same depth? The pieces are a tad too wide to run through my planer, so thats out of the question… besides.. my luck it would kick, due to the edges…

-- "Ah, So your not really a newbie, but a I betterbie."

4 replies so far

View Kindlingmaker's profile


2658 posts in 3760 days

#1 posted 09-10-2010 02:02 AM

Without photos I might suggest using a chemical paint remover then hand sand. Refinishing is time consuming but with care you will have an outstanding final piece.

-- Never board, always knotty, lots of growth rings

View Dan Lyke's profile

Dan Lyke

1520 posts in 4358 days

#2 posted 09-10-2010 02:29 AM

For the routed edges: Unless you can afford a linear sander (I have Porter Cable’s, I don’t recommend it, I lust after Festool’s), take a block of balsa. Use spray adhesive to attach sandpaper to your profile edge. Sand the balsa on it ‘til you get a negative of that edge. Peel off the paper, and use spray adhesive to attach sandpaper to the balsa. Now you have a sanding block that should hold that edge fairly accurately.

Or, if you can match the roundover, re-route it! Cut as shallow as you can, and cut with the bit. Even though that’s harder to control you’ll get a smoother edge, and should be doable if you’re only pulling 1/32nd or less.

I’m with kindlingmaker on a chemical stripper first.

And I’d think that belt sander would be way too aggressive, I’d stick with the hand sanding unless you’ve got a random orbital sander for the top.

-- Dan Lyke, Petaluma California,

View RichClark's profile


157 posts in 3664 days

#3 posted 09-10-2010 02:29 AM

And wood type also helpful…

Are you just “trying to renew” the top? or start over from scratch? If they are unhappy with dullness/ dings and perhaps repairable heat/water marks you may get away with just figuring out the original finish an depending on what it is re-level it and start over… Many “dings” can be lifted by adding steam and heat. Water marks depend on the finish but are repairable… Heat marks can be mended by remelting the finish with the proper solvent. If the top actually got burnt then see below… There are allot of great Online articles on repairing finish.

But “refinishing” starts with striping… while its still a bit warm do it outside so you don’t get the fumes all over the house/shop… You need to “determine” the Finish… If the table is newer then It may be a poly and for them ya have to use a stripper. Use a scraper to clean it up and the sanding will be to a minimum. If the wood is natural (not stained) I imagine your only going to really care about the “top”?

As far as the routed bit… again carefully scrape it with a corner of a straight scraper then you could use a profile scraper. They sell them in sets for like 10-15$ at woodcraft. You get 3-4 scrapers with inside/outside arcs that you play with to find the fit and scrape those also.

If your diligent with the scraping you will have little sanding to do.. You may have to repeat the area’s where allot of finish may have pooled, to get it all up.. don’t worry about the wood as It could care less.

The hard part may be later when you find out its really not solid wood and but a veneer.. That is why a sand hogging belt device may not be a great idea till your sure what ya got… Not allot of recent furniture is really solid wood.


-- Duct Tape is the Force! It has a light side and a dark side and it Binds the Universe together!

View canadianchips's profile


2615 posts in 3230 days

#4 posted 09-10-2010 02:57 AM

I use a chemical stripper. My next step is lgihtly sand by hand. Stain to whatever color you choose. I like to finish my tables with a Polish. Coat of polish, steel wool, polish,steel wool, polish, steel wool, Polish. It really depends on the type of wood.

-- "My mission in life - make everyone smile !"

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics