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How do I soundproof my Garage Door?

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Forum topic by GrayPonyWorkshop posted 09-09-2010 06:55 PM 18130 views 1 time favorited 20 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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GrayPonyWorkshop

13 posts in 1674 days


09-09-2010 06:55 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question tip

My shop is in the single bay of a 3-car garage. I am concerned that the noise level is getting to the neighbors.
I’m assuming I need to put something on the inside of the garage doors, but not sure what is best.

-- www.grayponyworkshop.com


20 replies so far

View schloemoe's profile

schloemoe

691 posts in 1661 days


#1 posted 09-09-2010 07:19 PM

You can go to Home Depot or Lowes And ask for garage door insulation they should have it if they don’t sears should or maybe you have a garage door co. in you’re area I know they have it goes in easy and works real good…............Schloemoe

-- schloemoe, Oregon , http://www. woodrehab.blogspot.com

View mrg's profile

mrg

526 posts in 1723 days


#2 posted 09-09-2010 07:29 PM

Styrafoam insulation, available at home depot, lowes, in the insulation dept. Comes in sheets cut and put up with two sided tape. Acoustic tile will work also.

-- mrg

View dbhost's profile

dbhost

5386 posts in 1955 days


#3 posted 09-09-2010 08:08 PM

Insulating your garage doors goes a LONG way to sound reducing. Soundproof? Not hardly. But reduces it far enough the neighbors don’t know when I am working…

I took the R-Max foil backed foam insulation, and sized / cut it to fit my door panels, and then glued them in place with Liquid Nails for Projects…

Also make sure you use the door edge gasket that goes all around the sides and top, and a good bottom seal.

I can not hear my wife pull into the driveway with this setup, and my neighbors have commented that they no longer hear my planer (a Ryobi screamer…)

-- My workshop blog can be found at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com

View Rick  Dennington's profile

Rick Dennington

3567 posts in 1918 days


#4 posted 09-09-2010 08:09 PM

Greetings, Sounds like you got some good advice from the post above…. I did that once to a shop I had, and it really helped to keep the noise down. After you do the insulation, and the neighbors still complain…..just tell them to bugger off…..lol You’re out there doing something useful…what are they doing? Setting in front of the “boob tube”?

-- " I started with nothing, and I've still got most of it left".......

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

15714 posts in 2942 days


#5 posted 09-09-2010 09:25 PM

Soundproof for your neighbors? Heck, I guess my neighbors would be happy if the door was even closed! :-)

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View dmorrison's profile

dmorrison

146 posts in 1985 days


#6 posted 09-09-2010 10:05 PM

I just did this to my garage and it does make quite a difference in sound and heat/cooling.
I used this kit.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_222457-10477-8+FT+GARAGE+DOOR+INS_0_?productId=3025310&Ntt=garage+door+insulation&Ntk=i_products&pl=1&currentURL=/pl__0__s?newSearch=true$Ntt=garage%20door%20insulation$y=0$x=0

The panels are styrofoam with a hard vinyl covering. You cut to size and slip them in between the metal edges of the door. The double bubble silver insulation has a higher R factor but I don’t think it will provide the sound dampening that this kit does.
If you have a wooden door this will not work.
Here is the companies web site and information/PDF on the garage door kit.

http://www.insulfoam.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=154:residential-garage-door-kit&catid=45:specialty-products&Itemid=177

What I learned while doing the job.
1. Follow their directions. I tried making the panel 1 large piece that would fit under the metal edges. More difficult than it’s worth. Their method work fine.
2. I have 9’ doors and used 1 kit per door. However I have a door panel section with square windows So the cutoffs allowed me to use them to fill in around the windows. If you have no windows. Then you will need 2 more panels per door for a 9’ door.
I ordered 4 kits for the 3 doors I have. I returned 1 kit to Lowes, unused.
3. I cut the panels on my table saw. Very easy and quick. Plus nice square cuts.
4. Cut the Vertical first, then the horizontal on the panel. This way your cutoffs are bigger for filling in around the windows. The fill ins may have to be glued in depending on your windows shape.

I measured a 5-7 degree difference between the old metal temp and the vinyl surface after installed using a IR temp gun.
I noticed a big difference in the garage after the installation. I did this when we were having your 100-105F days.
So I am very pleased.

Also the garage door is very quite opening and closing now, where before it was a metal rattling sound.

dbhost, said he used the foil back insulation. I considered this but was afraid the foil would not stand up to wear and tear. The foil seemed to rip easily when I tested it in Lowe’s. So I chose the option above. The vinyl surface is very rugged and I’m sure that any bumps, knock or dings will not tear the material.

Dave

View dbhost's profile

dbhost

5386 posts in 1955 days


#7 posted 09-09-2010 10:11 PM

Oh FWIW, adding the weight of the insulation, or insulation kits will put a LOT of extra weight on your door, and in turn your springs. I need to get mine adjusted, the door does stay up fine, but it wants to SLAM down when I close it…

And yes, opening and closing the door is MUCH quieter with the door dampened with insulation than without…

-- My workshop blog can be found at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com

View Eric_S's profile

Eric_S

1521 posts in 1919 days


#8 posted 09-09-2010 10:39 PM

I dealth with sound dampening my garage last summer and here are things to consider. Are the walls of your garage insulated? The Attic above the garage? If not, you’ll want to do that too. I don’t know where you live but i was able to tax write off the insulation. It helps tremendously cut down the noise to the outside. Also, make sure the gaskets around the garage doors are tight. My doors are solid wood, so the gaskets don’t seal well all year round. I actually had to use strips of window foam insulation that has a tape backing on one side to plug those gaps. The garage door can still open and close, but I may occasionally have to reattach a piece or two of that weatherstripping.

Another thing to consider is stopping the sound waves from bouncing around INSIDE the garage which will amplify the sound inside and therefore out. So don’t use hardboard or pegboard for the walls, it seems to make the sound reverb a lot INSIDE the garage. I really like having pegboard for hanging lawn tools and workshop tools, but it does seem louder with it. I’m thinking of adding acoustic panels to the ceiling and walls to help dampen some of that but I haven’t decided yet on that stuff. I usually don’t work past 6pm or before 11am on weekends and that helps too.

Also, make sure to walk around the outside of the garage with your noisiest tools on to see if you find any problem areas that need to be plugged. I had my planer and dust collector both turned on and I then walked outside my house to the street and couldn’t hear it that much, which means by the time it gets to the neighbors house and through their insulation it shouldn’t even be audible.

-- - Eric Indianapolis, IN

View Kindlingmaker's profile

Kindlingmaker

2654 posts in 2250 days


#9 posted 09-10-2010 02:10 AM

I did about the same as dmorrison using 2” think foam panels with white vynil on both sides. The noise has been dramaticly reduced and the heat and cooling are also so much better. I used Liquid Nails to apply the foam panels to the doors.

-- Never board, always knotty, lots of growth rings

View Bearpie's profile

Bearpie

2591 posts in 1741 days


#10 posted 09-10-2010 03:40 AM

Plug your ears???? lol

Erwin, Jacksonville, FL

-- Erwin, Jacksonville, FL

View Broda's profile

Broda

313 posts in 2242 days


#11 posted 09-10-2010 03:52 AM

ahahaha @ bearpie

-- BRODY. NSW AUSTRALIA -arguments with turnings are rarely productive-

View dmorrison's profile

dmorrison

146 posts in 1985 days


#12 posted 09-10-2010 06:09 AM

The extra weight that was discussed by dbhost is true. The single door package was 10 pounds. Now it just so happened that before I received the packages from Lowe’s. One of the 2 springs on the large door broke.
So when I called to have the spring replaced, I informed them of the additional 20# that would be added to the door. So the springs were upgraded. When the tech installed the new springs he adjusted the door for the new weight.
Doing research on replacing the springs myself, I found the spring come in units with about 20# differences in design. So even though I had a particular strength spring on the door we replaced them with the next size up. So the springs are rated for the door and insulation combined.
My doors use the torsion type springs.
If you use the “side” springs you can always upgrade them.
If you choose not to upgrade them you can always adjust your spring tension for the doors new weight.

The single garage door, I did not adjust the springs. The door is attached to a garage door opener and seems to be working fine.

Dave

View FirehouseWoodworking's profile

FirehouseWoodworking

632 posts in 1996 days


#13 posted 09-10-2010 08:53 AM

I agree with what everyone has already mentioned.

One other thing you can do is to hang a large, HEAVY weight, CANVAS tarp in front of the door (on the inside of the garage) about 3 – 6 inches from the door. It has to be canvas, the plastic ones won’t help. If you don’t have (or can’t get) such a tarp, you can try 2 or 3 of the lighter canvas tarps. You can get them from Harbor Freight and paint stores.

The tarp will act like a sound curtain on a theater stage. You can use 3/4 or 1 inch metal conduit as a curtain rod. Try hanging it close to the ceiling, It needs to come within a foot or two from the floor.

Good luck!

-- Dave; Lansing, Kansas

View NathanAllen's profile

NathanAllen

376 posts in 1867 days


#14 posted 09-11-2010 12:13 AM

Pink poly panels, may look like a treat but best and cheapest insulation/sound proofing you can buy for $10.

View David Grimes's profile

David Grimes

2072 posts in 1363 days


#15 posted 07-17-2011 10:10 AM

Old thread, I know… i have a few things to add.

Lowe’s no longer sells the Insulfoam product. I had independently found it months ago and determined it had the least ghetto look of all the available contenders. Then, not available.

I have come to the conclusion that the best AND least expensive route for professional looking insulated panels (short of ordering them from the garage door folks $$$) is to insulate with whatever you want/like, then purchase one roll of powdercoated coil steel (like the siding guys use on the metal fascia) for about $100 at Lowe’s or Home Depot or other (its available somewhere close to you). Cut the panels to fit and screw into the metal framework with white self-tapping screws, then caulk/paint the edges as needed.

I have three 9’ x 7’ garage doors that will require a total of twelve panels 21” x 9 ft. So, I’ll use 108 linear feet. These coils are 2 feet wide by 150 feet long, so you’ll have some leftover to give to a friend or family member. It cuts pretty easily. If you happen to know someone with a long break press, you can get really fancy with some stiffening lines and/or folded edges, etc.

I expect less than $160 in materials costs for three (3) garage doors.

Hope somebody needs this information.

This is high on my list of things to do before summer is over.

-- If you're going to stir the pot, think BIG spoon or SMALL boat paddle. David Grimes, Georgia

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