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How do I install drawer kickers and runners after a glue up

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Forum topic by Eric_S posted 09-09-2010 02:29 PM 3278 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Eric_S

1551 posts in 2657 days


09-09-2010 02:29 PM

Well the title pretty much says it all. Last week I finished the nightstand glue up and now I’ll be focusing on the tops, drawers, and final sanding. Last night as I lay in bed trying to go to sleep I realized that I did the glue up without installing drawer runners and kickers first…woops. Every example I’ve seen shows the kickers and runners being part of the drawer frame construction, usually with mortise and tenons.

So my question, what is the best way to install these now that the glue up is finished. The drawer blades do not have any mortises in the back to accept the side runners and kickers. I’m guessing glue up is not a good option either since the wood its glued to would move. Any suggestions?

Here is a pic of them before the glue up, although they look pretty much the same after ;)

-- - Eric Noblesville, IN


7 replies so far

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AaronK

1440 posts in 2926 days


#1 posted 09-09-2010 02:40 PM

d’oh!

depending on the thickness of your panels, this might be an option.

You can always widen the screw holes slightly (in horizontal direction) to allow for wood movement, like you would when pinning breadboard tenons, say.

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Eric_S

1551 posts in 2657 days


#2 posted 09-09-2010 02:47 PM

Yeah Doh is right. Oh well, live and learn.

Thanks Aaron for that link, thats kind of what I’ve been thinking I’d have to do. I really didn’t want to use any screws on them but I’m thinking I’d have to as well now that its too late to tenon the back of the blades. I’ve seen where if the front blade is mortised, you can slip the kickers tenon in place and then bring down the back with a half lap to glue to the back side after glue up, but they had mortises already on the front…I dont. Thanks for the suggestion. I may end up doing this.

-- - Eric Noblesville, IN

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AaronK

1440 posts in 2926 days


#3 posted 09-09-2010 03:19 PM

you could always half lap the front too – there’s no real specific need to mortise it other than appearance.

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Eric_S

1551 posts in 2657 days


#4 posted 09-09-2010 03:23 PM

Hmmm, another possibility. Thanks aaron. Hopefully some others can chime in as well :)

-- - Eric Noblesville, IN

View Dick, & Barb Cain's profile

Dick, & Barb Cain

8693 posts in 3761 days


#5 posted 09-09-2010 03:27 PM

I don’t think you have to worry about movement by gluing on the runners, because the grain is running in the same direction.

-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

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PurpLev

8523 posts in 3110 days


#6 posted 09-09-2010 03:33 PM

like Dick and Barb said – the grain goes in the same direction, and if you use the same specie of wood, it’ll just all move together. if it’s flat sawn it’ll just move a sinch since it’s small parts.
If you are really concerned – leave a 1/16 – 1/8 gap front and back – more for your peace of mind than anything else.

the screwing method will also work well, and is much faster to accomplish at this stage.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

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Eric_S

1551 posts in 2657 days


#7 posted 09-09-2010 03:37 PM

Thanks Dick and Barb and Purplev for your suggestions as well. They are greatly appreciated. I have a lot of scrap cherry that has already been flattened that I can use for most of it I think, I’ll just need to thickness it.

WOOHOO! It sounds like I do have options after all :) I can sleep easy tonight not worrying if I totally screwed up the stands. Since I only work on them on the weekends it leaves too much time to ponder and worry during the week about them.

-- - Eric Noblesville, IN

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