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Forum topic by BuffaloMntWW posted 01-26-2017 05:07 PM 502 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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BuffaloMntWW

5 posts in 325 days


01-26-2017 05:07 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question maple walnut oak finishing joining mid-century modern bed furniture

Hello All,

See my drawings HERE

I’m working on this design of a bed for my house and need some opinions.

1) the head board joinery. Is it OK to just cut a big dado down the post and glue in the plywood head board? I would then put a piece of matching veneer on the exposed top of the plywood.

2) Is it hard to match plywood and rough sawn lumber? I’m thinking either red oak, white oak, or maple. I could try to find some interested curly maple for the side boards, foot boards, and post. Then try to find a piece of 3/4” maple plywood that matched.

Let me know what you think!

thanks!


8 replies so far

View JBrow's profile

JBrow

1275 posts in 760 days


#1 posted 01-27-2017 03:52 AM

BuffaloMntWW

1) The groove in the post to accept the plywood headboard should work fine. Since plywood seems to vary in thickness, cutting a groove to exactly fit the thickness of the plywood could be a challenge. If you are not up for that challenge, then the groove in the post could be 1/2” and then a tongue to perfectly fit the 1/2” groove could be cut into the plywood.

2) I have glued red oak hardwood to the edges of red oak plywood and was underwhelmed by the match. The hardwood had a slightly different look from the plywood. Had I gone through a stack of red oak looking for a better color and grain match with the plywood, the match could have been better.

On the other hand, I have installed solid red oak shelves in a red oak plywood cabinet and it is looked really good. My conclusion is that a good match occurs so long as the hardwood and plywood are separated by a visual break of some kind. For example, the bed posts of solid wood with a plywood panel connecting the posts would be a good match since an inside corner at the post-plywood joint forms the visual break and tricks the eye.

View Rick_M's profile

Rick_M

10642 posts in 2220 days


#2 posted 01-27-2017 07:59 AM

Your platform is high, I’m guessing there won’t be a box springs?

1. Cutting a rabbet would be simpler than a dado but either is fine. Either way, I would pin them from the back with 1/4” dowels.

2. MCM isn’t known for contrast, it’s a minimalist style, so I would keep any contrast subtle. You might consider a materials contrast like fabric or leather over the plywood part of the headboard. Or if you want to push the style a bit you could do a textural contrast or even include negative space in the headboard.

-- http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

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BuffaloMntWW

5 posts in 325 days


#3 posted 01-27-2017 01:38 PM



Your platform is high, I m guessing there won t be a box springs?

1. Cutting a rabbet would be simpler than a dado but either is fine. Either way, I would pin them from the back with 1/4” dowels.

Wasn’t planning on box springs – Honestly I don’t know if they serve a purpose if you are building a suitable platform of slats? I could move the platform down a bit and let the mattress sink further into the frame. The legs are longer than they might typically be so that I can put some rolling bins underneath the bed for storage. I'm trying to copy this bead from west elm.

The rabbet idea and pegs is great – It would be a lot more simple for me to cut than the large dado, but I have the tops of the posts tapering on all four sides. I’m not sure where I would rabbet to, below I sketched it up where the
post is rabbeted deep enough for the plywood to be flush with narrowest part of the taper. Does that make sense? I guess the other option would be to keep the back of the post straight, and just taper the other three sides and have the plywood sit flush with the back of the post.

I’m thinking of going with Maple, since it is readily available in my area and I know a guy with some nice pieces of cabinet grade plywood in Maple.

View Kirk650's profile

Kirk650

514 posts in 588 days


#4 posted 01-27-2017 02:15 PM

I made similar style single beds a few years ago. No box springs. I lowered the mattress support an inch or so, to keep the mattress inside the frame. I also angled the headboard back (I forget the angle) to make it easier and more comfortable to sit in bed and watch TV.

View TheGreatJon's profile

TheGreatJon

337 posts in 1073 days


#5 posted 01-27-2017 02:42 PM

When I made my daughter’s bed I put a dado in the posts like you suggested. It worked very well, but since it was being painted, I used MDF rather than plywood. MDF is very dimensionally consistent. I cut a 3/4” dado and it fit perfectly.

I also made it a platform bed and avoided the box springs. Unfortunately, I did not sink the mattress support, so the mattress is free to slide around. It doesn’t move a ton, but every once and a while you need to push it back into alignment. The bed was a learning experience and that was one of the big things that I wish I had done differently.

-- This is not the signature line you are looking for.

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BuffaloMntWW

5 posts in 325 days


#6 posted 01-27-2017 02:56 PM

I’ll lower the support frame so that the mattress sits down about 2-3 inches into the frame. I don’t want to go too far – It might make it hard to put fitted sheet on.

View Rick_M's profile

Rick_M

10642 posts in 2220 days


#7 posted 01-27-2017 05:43 PM

To be honest I don’t like the backside taper and would eliminate it.

-- http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

View BuffaloMntWW's profile

BuffaloMntWW

5 posts in 325 days


#8 posted 01-27-2017 06:04 PM



To be honest I don t like the backside taper and would eliminate it.

- Rick M

I’m leaning that way.. I think it would have the same affect with just the three other sides tapered.

I’m trying to copy this bed from west elm but i don’t have the ability to turn and taper round stock.

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