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Bandsaw Wheel Alignment

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Forum topic by JWV4 posted 01-24-2017 01:27 PM 1016 views 0 times favorited 36 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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JWV4

19 posts in 375 days


01-24-2017 01:27 PM

I have a Jet 14 inch bandsaw, model JWBS-14X. I recently installed the riser block and put a Timberwolf 3/4 inch blade on it. I was able to use the tracking adjustment on the top wheel to center the blade on the top wheel, but the blade is not quite centered on the bottom wheel. I haven’t been able to adjust it to fit in the middle of the bottom, and instead, the teeth are hanging off the edge of the tire on the bottom wheel.

Any adjustments I can make? When I try to adjust the blade guide assembly from say 3 inches off the table to 10 inches off the table, the idler wheel on the blade guide gets tight against the blade. The blade must not be parallel to the blade guide assembly.

Thank you for your help,

John


36 replies so far

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MrUnix

5988 posts in 2034 days


#1 posted 01-24-2017 01:48 PM

It makes no difference where the blade rides on the lower wheel, as long as it’s not falling off that is. Ignore it. And you should be able to loosen the riser block to tweek the upper frame a bit to try and get the blade running perpendicular to the table.

Here is the obligatory band saw tune up video… watch it… do it… make sawdust:
Band Saw Clinic with Alex Snodgrass

Cheers,
Brad

PS: A 3/4” blade on a 14” saw with a riser is really pushing it past it’s limits. Be careful.

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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Bill White

4802 posts in 3795 days


#2 posted 01-24-2017 01:51 PM

First, a 3/4” blade on a 14” BS is too big. Regardless of specs, the max I run on my 14” is 1/2”, and that blade will do all I will ever ask of it.
Have you watched the obligatory Alex Snodgrass vid on setting up the bandsaw? If not, Google it or look up on YouTube. It will get ya goin’ in the right direction.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

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distrbd

2252 posts in 2281 days


#3 posted 01-24-2017 02:41 PM

+1 to both replies, I must add though,I once bought a 5/8” blade for my 14” bandsaw and it was just as good as the 1/2” as far as tracking and using it goes. the 5/8” was mainly used for rough cutting hard wood or slicing , but didn’t see a huge advantage over a 1/2” blade.

-- Ken from Ontario, Canada

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HorizontalMike

7655 posts in 2749 days


#4 posted 01-24-2017 02:42 PM

Check this thread about alignment:
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/151722

And FWIW, I always run a 3/4in. 2-3tpi TW blade on my 14in. Rikon BS. I mainly use it for resawing 8/4 and 12/4 lumber.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

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JWV4

19 posts in 375 days


#5 posted 01-24-2017 05:44 PM

Ok, so maybe 3/4 isn’t the best size, but for cutting logs and resawing, I like it. This is the first I’ve heard of 3/4 being too big for a 14 inch. I’ve read other places where people use them all the time, and there seems to be a boatload of reviews for 3/4 inch blades, most of them positive, working on 14 inch bandsaws with riser blocks.

As for the blade alignment, I will try to adjust the frame. But the bottom wheel alignment really doesn’t matter? Could the bottom wheel alignment be why the blade isn’t perfectly vertical?

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Andybb

547 posts in 438 days


#6 posted 01-24-2017 06:55 PM


It makes no difference where the blade rides on the lower wheel, as long as it s not falling off that is. Ignore it. And you should be able to loosen the riser block to tweek the upper frame a bit to try and get the blade running perpendicular to the table.

Here is the obligatory band saw tune up video… watch it… do it… make sawdust:
Band Saw Clinic with Alex Snodgrass

Cheers,
Brad

PS: A 3/4” blade on a 14” saw with a riser is really pushing it past it s limits. Be careful.

- MrUnix


YES!
I’m a relative noob so I’ll keep it brief but I just tuned my bandsaw and it’s magic using Alex Snodgrass and the responses I got from this thread http://lumberjocks.com/topics/199610.

Maybe for general use the 3/4” on a 14” saw may be ok, but even if you’re not veneering the part about the double load on the saw I think still applies.http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/resawing-with-a-bandsaw-slicing-wood-2.aspx

In principle, the wider the bandsaw blade, the higher its beam strength and the better it can maintain straightness. Wider, however, isn’t necessarily better. Almost all US woodcutting bandsaw blades over 1/2” wide are .035” thick, thicker than the Wood Slicer’s total kerf width. 3/4” blades are set far more coarsely as well, so the DOUBLED LOAD on your saw and their rough cuts make wider blades a distinct step backward.

The 3/4” blade just seems to ask too much of my 14” saw. She is fat, dumb and very happy cutting and resawing with a 1/2” blade. 5/8” works but 1/2” is the sweet spot for mine regardless of the stock.

As Brad said, as far as the issue of the blade being up against the guides check the VERTICAL (left to right as you face the saw) alignment of the upper and lower wheels (nuts). Even if your riser kit has alignment pins that could be off. As others have said, position on the lower wheel doesn’t matter. Get the blade gullet in the center of upper wheel.

The only thing lowly me has to differ with Alex is about there being no such thing as drift. Drift has to do with the blade, not the saw. Without adjusting for it there is no way for me to dial it in. Alex kind of blows right through that by just saying there is no such thing, without really saying why. Maybe someone above my pay grade can address this.

The other thing I realized then read after the fact is that adjusting for drift is NOT the final step in alignment especially when resawing. Adjust for drift, make practice cuts then bump the fence to dial it in. THEN Bob’s your uncle. If it’s accurate enough to cut 2’ long 1/16” veneer then IMO it’s accurate for general use.

-- Andybb - GO HAWKS!

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JWV4

19 posts in 375 days


#7 posted 01-24-2017 10:18 PM

So if my problem is the blade is not vertical when looking at it from the front of the Saw (teeth pointing to the left) and it rubs on the guide wheel (back of the guide, not sure on terminology) as I lift the guide up, I should adjust the top wheel in toward the frame and the bottom wheel out away from the frame?

How exactly do I make the bottom wheel come out further and the front wheel move toward the frame?

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Andybb

547 posts in 438 days


#8 posted 01-25-2017 12:28 AM


So if my problem is the blade is not vertical when looking at it from the front of the Saw (teeth pointing to the left) and it rubs on the guide wheel (back of the guide, not sure on terminology) as I lift the guide up, I should adjust the top wheel in toward the frame and the bottom wheel out away from the frame?

How exactly do I make the bottom wheel come out further and the front wheel move toward the frame?

- JWV4


I mean looking at the blade. Teeth towards you. Shift the riser left or right to get the blade perpendicular to the table like Brad said above. You could use a plumb bob hung from the center of the nut on the top wheel to the center of the bottom wheel.

You see that my Grizzly riser isn’t an exact match for my Harbor Freight saw.

Hang a line from the center of the top wheel to the bottom wheel

Then the table adjustment can be made after that.

-- Andybb - GO HAWKS!

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Andybb

547 posts in 438 days


#9 posted 01-25-2017 01:24 AM

.

-- Andybb - GO HAWKS!

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JWV4

19 posts in 375 days


#10 posted 01-25-2017 02:09 AM

I’m not sure if we are on the same page. The guide blocks (those two graphite blocks) are not the issue, they are aligned perfectly and the blade does not press against them when I adjust the guide assembly. What I am saying is that the blade is not perpendicular to the table while looking at the side of the blade. If you look at it from the teeth, it is perfectly perpendicular. When I slide the guide assembly up to allow me to cut larger pieces, the blade gets tight against the small wheel at the back of the guide assembly.

Thank you,

John

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Andybb

547 posts in 438 days


#11 posted 01-25-2017 04:33 AM

Oh. Sorry. So, if you put a square against the back or front of the blade you r saying it’s not square? Then maybe try twisting the two halves? Then I’m thinking that as long as the top and bottom aren’t twisted in relation to each other then the longer bar must be slightly cocked inward when you raise the bar. That means the guides must be further forward also. If everything else is fine I don’t think readjusting the roller and position of the guides is the end of the world or better yet just shim the bar a little?

But the blade should be perpendicular front to back I think. It almost has to be. Are you sure the table is perpendicular? Is there any other reference you can use other than the table? This is something I’ve never seen addressed before.

Like I said, I’m a newbie so you might need to wait for someone else to respond.

-- Andybb - GO HAWKS!

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JWV4

19 posts in 375 days


#12 posted 01-25-2017 11:55 AM

Andy, yes, thats correct, front and back of blade not perpendicular to table. Pretty sure the table is at 0 degrees, and I can see that the blade is not parallel to the guide bar.

I think maybe putting a shim on the axle of the rear wheel would work? I think if I were able to center the blade on both the bottom it might help. The blade rubs the guide wheel more the further I move the guide up.

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Andybb

547 posts in 438 days


#13 posted 01-25-2017 04:40 PM

Ok. Starting from the beginning…..assuming all was well before adding the riser…..

If the blade is centered on the top wheel but the teeth are hanging of the front of the bottom wheel then bump the riser and top half back towards the rear of the saw. Maybe the blade is so far forward on the bottom wheel that the crown of the lower wheel is keeping the blade forward and upper crown is pulling the blade towards the rear. A misalignment that large may cause the blade to tilt back,towards,the rear of,the saw.

No, I would definitely not start adding shims to the wheels. By “rear wheel” do you mean bottom wheel?

Adding the riser block in a perfect world should simply raise your entire setup by six inches vertically. If all worked well before you might start from scratch and remove the riser and start over.

-- Andybb - GO HAWKS!

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Andybb

547 posts in 438 days


#14 posted 01-25-2017 04:43 PM

Ok. Starting from the beginning…..assuming all was well before adding the riser…..

If the blade is centered on the top wheel but the teeth are hanging off the front of the bottom wheel then bump the riser and top half back towards the rear of the saw. Maybe the blade is so far forward on the bottom wheel that the crown of the lower wheel is keeping the blade forwar d and upper crown is pulling the blade towards the rear. A misalignment that large may cause the blade to tilt back,towards,the rear of,the saw. Is that a 3/4” blade. How tightly is it tensioned?

No, I would definitely not start adding shims to the wheels. By “rear wheel” do you mean bottom wheel?

Adding the riser block in a perfect world should simply raise your entire setup by six inches vertically. If all worked well before you might start from scratch and remove the riser and start over.

-- Andybb - GO HAWKS!

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johnstoneb

2634 posts in 2007 days


#15 posted 01-25-2017 05:16 PM

I put the riser on my JWBS 14 and had no problems with alignment. Did you clean all the paint off the mounting surfaces on the riser. The paint is very thick and will not compress evenly when you tighten the bolt up. Clean that paint off then watch the tuneup video by Snodgrass and you should be good to go.

I ran a 3/4” blade for resaw for a little while then went back to the 1/2”. I just didn’t feel the 3/4” was any better.

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

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