Radial Arm Saw Dilemma

The only things you really lose are a bigger, more stable workspce and the ability to cut consistant dados or consistant heights like you can with the RAS. You can’t really “raise up” the CMS to a constant/set height.

-- Rob (A) Waxahachie,TX

I don’t have a RAS and never have, but anything you could do with it I could find a way to do without it.
Might not be as quick, but then again you can save a lot of wall/shelf space by not having one.

A straight edge and router can cut a longer dado than a RAS and with the jig I use I can do it faster.

Just my thoughts.

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

I have an old sears radial myself that I got from an old woodworking buddy who passed away. I use it for a variety of things although I am extra cautious for my safety. I use it for multiple crosscuts and to miter longer pieces. I also do multiple dadoes for making bookcases. I much prefer it over my table saw when pieces are longer. I also replaced the sofit on my house with new vinyl requiring me to cut hundreds of pieces. I put a crappy old blade on backwards and set a stop. It was the perfect tool. (never cut vinyl with a blade installed the normal way.. a backwards blade is the best.)

It is part of my wall work area and when I am not using it, it is out of the way. I would never use this saw for ripping stock or other more dangerous things. A radial is not good at most of the things people claim they can do.. but they are an asset and a useful tool.

-- making sawdust....

I agree with Rob. The major advantage of the radial arm saw comes with cutting a dado in long work pieces. but this can easily been done with a router. Other than that the slider will crosscut up to 12”. I have a slider and have only needed a radial arm saw in passing. It would be nice to have a shop like Norm’s- with every tool combination possible. But let’s face it most of us don’t have the space, tool budget or time necessary to learn the tool. Given an either or choice I would choose the slider without hesitation.

-- With God's help all things are possible- even woodworking. Woodworking is not just a hobby, it is an (expletive deleted) expensive hobby.

I was just listing the things he’d lose, I’d make the switch any day.

-- Rob (A) Waxahachie,TX

I have a Craftsman RAS that is about 25 years old. It just keeps working. There is a safety recall on the blade guard and it is a must have piece of safety. Emerson Tool STILL supports this recall which is now well over 5 years old. They shipped the guard and new table top at no cost to my door and it weighs 75 lbs.

With the guard set up properly, I have had no safety issues and yes, I have had wood jump in the saw. I use clamp down and push stick techniques.

I cannot stress enough how the new safety guard design is needed. Unfortunetly , It is well though out design because of a lawsuit due to serious injury. Too bad they didn’t think of safety 25 years ago like they do now.

-- WaywardHoosier - Behind schedule and over budget, but who's counting?

Hmm, wonder if I can still get that new/recall stuff for mine, It’s a old Craftsman too. I’ll check it out, thanks.

-- Rob (A) Waxahachie,TX

I’ve had my old Wards Powercraft Since the mid 1960’s, & I built all of my raised panel kitchen cabinets with it

I’ve never had any safety problems with it.

The poor thing, the motor burned out on it 2 years ago, because of low voltage at my cabin.

I sure wish I could find a motor for it. Let me know if you see one around.

-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

I have two old 1950s dewalt ras. I wouldent trade them for anything. I use them more than any other tool on the shop.

-- bryano

I have an old Craftsman with the upgrade with the recall package. I would very seldom rip with it, but it is one of the most used tools in my shop. Would not trade it for any for any CMS.

30 years old model

-- WOOD/DON (...one has the right to ones opinion but not the right to ones own facts...)

My only saw for years was a RA from sears. I scrapped it for the $100 recall and purchased a grizzly 1023slx cabinet saw ( I love it ). But, I just got another sears RA, a little newer than my old one, for $75. I have no safety concerns with the saw as long as I an using a sharp blade and the blade was designed for a RA saw. I use a Freud Freud LU91R010 10-Inch 60 Tooth ATB Thin Kerf Miter Saw Blade on mine and get very little climb. In fact, I’m building a 8 foot cabinet to house it rather than building one for my chop saw.

-- Dave Herron, Boise, ID -- “That which does not crash the browser, makes it stronger”

Thanks for all of your input. I especially appreciate the heads-up on the recall. I believe my saw is one of them. Now I have to decide to either take the 100 bucks for it or get the upgrade kit. I’m now seriously thinking about keeping it. Thanks again for the feedback.

-- Tony, Ohio

Here is the link address to the Craftsman RAS recall: http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/

-- WaywardHoosier - Behind schedule and over budget, but who's counting?

As far as radial arm saws being dangerous, they don’t have to be. They are no more dangerous than a table saw and just have different precautions.

Probably the biggest mistake you can make is using the wrong blade.

Blades on a radial arm saw must have a zero or negative hook angle on the teeth. This means if you were to draw a line from the center of the blade out to the edge, that the angle of the tooth would either be perfectly in line (zero) or raked slightly backward (negative angle). If the teeth are raked forward even one degree (like MOST blades) it could “climb” toward you and send the powerhead/blade flying in your direction.

I’m not trying to scare anybody, because this danger is almost completely eliminated by using the right blade.

In my opinion a radial arm saw can be even SAFER than a table saw if the right precautions are taken. With a RAS the wood doesn’t move (like on a TS) so there is no kickback concern. And the blade can only move within a linear path which only extends a couple feet. If you keep yourself out of that path, there is very little that can go wrong.

Exception: RIPPING (in my opinion) is very dangerous on a RAS and should only be done on the TS.

-- Check out my new website! http://www.theeasellife.com

I like my RAS very much. Very handy for crosscutting especially long boards. Easy to set up, nice wide table. I also use it for making tenons and to crosscut dados.

If you have the room, I’d keep it. Learn about it and treat with respect like any other electrical monster.

-- Scott - Chico California http://chicowoodnut.home.comcast.net

I use my radial arm saw for cutting cutting coves. Just like you would on a table saw only upside down. I built a jig to set up the angles and hold everything in place while I slide the wood under the blade. Sounds crazy but it works.

Also built a jig for cutting miters. Like a sled for the table saw but it stays fixed and the blade moves.
Also use it for tenons and lap joints.

It does take up a lot of space but I’m thinking of building a stand for it that will let me slide a router table or a flip up planer table under it.

-- Leon -- Houston, TX - " I create all my own designs and it looks like it "

A Sears RAS was a staple in my shop for many years. I carry a number of scars from that *&^$#@ thing. I changed my shop around and built two workbenches of the same height, spread them apart and put a sliding compound Hitachi chop saw between them. I find there is nothing I can’t do with this setup. I can also take the chop saw on the job when needed. Keep in mind that an old ras can be used to mount a router and is very useful. Junk the RAS and buy a good table saw, you won’t be sorry.

-- Mike, Massachusetts

I have an old RAS in my shop. I use it quite often as I can cross cut wider piece safer than i can on my table saw. Miter saws generaly can cut around 12” but I can get 16” on my RAS. That comes in pretty handy at times. I am VERY careful using this machine and I have a lot of respect for it. I think most accidents with this tool are caused by being unaware of where your hands are at all times. I have had the saw jump on the wood several times but always making sure my hand is not on the table has made the difference. I always provide support for long pieces and clamp with two quick clamps. My day job requires that I have all my finges in working order so I made a promise to my wife long ago….I’ll never work in the shop when I am tired. I find most of my close calls come when I start to get tired and quite paying attension to what I am doing.

BTW…My Dad had a sears RAS with the electronic readout…loved that saw. Wish I could find one with the electronics still working. Several have come up for sale in my area but the electronics were non functional.

-- Greg - Charles Town, WV