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Jet JWSS-10LFR Table Saw: Reassembling and can't get the Tilt wheel to lock

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Forum topic by Will Dougherty posted 01-22-2017 10:43 PM 821 views 0 times favorited 3 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Will Dougherty

2 posts in 327 days


01-22-2017 10:43 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question tablesaw

I’m trying to end a seemingly endless odyssey that started when I realized that my Jet table saw was not aligned in the 45 degree plane. This is a “hybrid” saw with the trunnions mounted to the bottom of the table. First I shimmed the wrong side and couldn’t get one of the shims out. Bought a bore-scope and managed to get back on track only to snap a bolt head off one of the trunnions on the other (correct side). So, I dropped the motor, removed the table top and got the broken bolt out.

I’ve finally got the correct side shimmed properly and I’m at the point of reinstalling the hand wheels.

It looks like the way the locking knob works is by pressing the slotted hand wheel (via washer etc.) against a collar on the inside of the cabinet. I have that collar (and its washer) pressed up tight on the inside of the cabinet and made sure that there is enough play in the slot of the hand wheel to apply pressure to the outside of the cabinet. I can tighten the locking knob to the point where it’s difficult to turn the hand wheel but it’s not locking like it should.

Anyone out there been there and done that?

TIA.

-- Always have a Plan B.


3 replies so far

View Dan Krager's profile

Dan Krager

3752 posts in 2072 days


#1 posted 01-23-2017 02:55 AM

I’ve fooled with the Delta Unisaw and Grizzly locks on table saw and shaper and they seem to work pretty much the same. It seems strange to me to think that to lock a spindle they squeeze the sheet metal on the the cabinet. The ones I’ve worked (above) have a tapered pin that the locking bolt drives into the shaft. It can be easily overpowered even when put together correctly, but it is pretty ease to overlook that pin, which in the cases mentioned above is separate from the locking bolt. If that pin is missing or backwards, it won’t lock at all.
This could be all different, but Jet doesn’t engineer things, they copy. Good luck.

DanK

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL http://www.kragerwoodworking.weebly.com The more functions a device is required to perform, the less effectively it can perform any individual function.

View Will Dougherty's profile

Will Dougherty

2 posts in 327 days


#2 posted 01-23-2017 01:22 PM

Thanks Dan,
I agree that it’s strange that they’d use a mechanism as sketchy as I described. But the locking knob is just threaded on to the end of the shaft and the only pin is the drift pin that engages the slot in the hand wheel. And there are no leftover parts, which is always a good sign.

Your comment that yours have been “easily overpowered” made me go back and take a second look at the other wheel, that raises and lowers the blade. That one presses against a little collar that sticks thru the front of the cabinet. Same sort of simple friction mechanism. As you said, it can be forced.

I believe that I was mistaken when I said that I had enough play between the slot of the hand wheel and the drift pin. I think that the slot is actually bottoming out against that drift pin before it can press firmly enough against the side of the cabinet. I’m going to add another washer/shim between the cabinet and the hand wheel and I bet that will make it hold a little better.

Thanks VERY much for your suggestions. They got me back on the right track.

Will

-- Always have a Plan B.

View Dan Krager's profile

Dan Krager

3752 posts in 2072 days


#3 posted 01-23-2017 03:05 PM

Good show! Happy sawing.

DanK

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL http://www.kragerwoodworking.weebly.com The more functions a device is required to perform, the less effectively it can perform any individual function.

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