steel building for new shop?

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Forum topic by elmer3 posted 09-04-2010 03:13 AM 1339 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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11 posts in 2312 days

09-04-2010 03:13 AM

So im looking at a new house lots of land only thing is no garage and i need my shop, its looking very promising for this new house . My shop is in my over sized two car garage now. So i need a shop, im thinking about one of those steel buildings, maybe pole barn. Has any one put up either one of them? Im looking for 30X40 price and did you put it up or pay some one to do it? What type of insulation did you use spray or batt? Or pole barn? Just looking for info before i buy this new house. Thanks much for any info.


4 replies so far

View canadianchips's profile


2310 posts in 2419 days

#1 posted 09-04-2010 04:28 AM

I have had BOTH.
My steel building was used to store farm machinery. I had trouble with condensation inside.
I had several pole sheds , also for storing farm machinery.
The pole buildings were cheaper IF:
a) You didn’t want a concrete floor.
b) You didn’t plan on insulating and sheeting the inside
BUT: Concrete floor, sheeting inside, electrical wiring, insulating, finishing ceiling,then I would frame a 2×6 wall 24” O.C.
My first workshop was a steel quonset style building with spray on insulation inside. In my opinion they are NOT good workshops.

-- "My mission in life - make everyone smile !"

View HorizontalMike's profile


7064 posts in 2336 days

#2 posted 09-04-2010 04:48 AM

I have a MetalMart 24×30 that has 12’ ceiling w/16’ garage door. Used 1/4” Radiant barrier batting (R10-In, R5-Out) down in South Central Texas (San Antonio). Have one 8’ roof vent with chain pull. Seven years ago I paid ~$6500 for the building, $4500 for the slab, wired it myself for ~$400-600.

The biggest challenge is joining and lifting the center I-Beam and attaching each end to the already erected I-Beam posts. I hired my neighbor who had jury rigged a lift in the back of his PU and we got’er done. Other than that me and the girl friend pretty finished everything else. This same neighbor tried to act injured to put me at a disadvantage (wanted more money than the $100/day agreed to) and stayed home for a couple of days. That is until he drove by and saw that the GF and I had assembled ~60% more of the building and then “presto” he was back on the job. I think I paid a total of about $600 for his outside help.

Like I said, other than placing the center I-Beam and pouring the slab, the rest is easy work for two people using ladders.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View semi75's profile


78 posts in 2322 days

#3 posted 09-04-2010 11:12 PM

I have a metal 30×40 building I have mostly used for parking tractors and a horse trailer but am thinking of finishing it out for a workshop. There are a lot of metal buildings in my area used as shops/garages, they are actually the norm but it would not be my first choice. Depending on the price of metal it may or may not be cheaper. I built this one with my father in law over a a few weekends saving quite of bit of money. The hardest part for me was setting the trusses with a small tractor.

I wish I had insulated at least the roof before putting on the metal, it makes like much easier. Spray insulation seems to be too high sadly. Let us know how it works out for you.

View rtb's profile


1101 posts in 3135 days

#4 posted 09-05-2010 12:32 AM

I have a pole barn, all metal, the folks that built it suggested insulation on the underside of the roof. They used some type of batting and it does the job very nicely. the top 24 inches of each side is a frosted Plexiglas of some type. Don’t get the clear, it looks like crap in a very short time. It does a great job of letting daylight in. Fiberglass reinforced concrete cold flat level no =/- makes it very easy to set the machines and if I have to move them around they always stay level. Next time I’ll have spray foam insulation throughout.

-- RTB. stray animals are just looking for love

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