I've tried gluing Ipe on two different occasions(jobs), with probably 8 different types of adhesives, in multiple different manners. Every one was a complete failure.
I had done a significant amount of 'googlin' on the matter before and after, and there are a few success stories out there. They weren't doing anything different than what we had tried. Different subspecies maybe? Not as oily? no idea.
I won't even quote a job anymore that involves Ipe and glue. Not worth the headache.
Ipe is very very oily. Maybe acetone wipe several times to remove the surface oil before gluing? A mechanical connection would be much much better, though. Maybe lay joists across, screwing them to the edges of the garage frame?
Hey J
I think he needs to change his approach and use screwed down battens and screw to the decking to them. linoleum is not rated for outdoor use with hot and cold weather conditions ,he should use a self-sealing product like water and ice,when screwing the battens down the water and ice seals around the penetration, I alway overkill it by putting some Henry's roof patch under each batten too. No problems after 30 years of deck building.
Being that it's an outdoor deck, I would not consider an adhesive of any kind. I would rip up the linoleum and put down 15# roofing felt; then sleepers with the IPE screwed down.
I am a little confused. It sounds as if the deck is under construction or yet to be built. But linoleum is used evidently as waterproofing. If this is new construction, there are probably much better products for waterproofing a flat roof than kitchen flooring.
In any event, I agree with the contractor. As soon as the waterproof barrier is pierced by a fastener, a potential for a leak exists. Avoiding a hundred piercings of the roof is probably a good idea. Gluing the Ipe to deck surface would keep the wood in intimate contact with the deck and invite rot, even in a rot resistant wood. Also, when it is time to replace the roofing material or if a leak must be repaired, a lot of expensive wood could be destroyed.
I wonder why the decking is not floated on the deck. Snap-lock wood decking squares are commercially available and offer provisions for water to move under the decking. The alternative would be to fabricate Ipe panels with provisions that keep the Ipe elevated a bit off the deck. The panels can then be laid on the deck with no fasteners.
The link is to one vendor offering 24" x 24" Ipe decking squares. There are others…
Sorry to say It really sounds like this is not this contractor's area of expertise or he just calls himself a contractor given he's trying to use strange products like linoleum outdoors plus it's a linseed oil product which could be highly flammable in the right conditions. Don't know if you used IPE before J but I dought it would rot it's a very durable dense wood that's even fire rated the same as masonry products.
I've seen Ipe tiles on "this old house" it looks like a good product but spendy but most Ipe items are not cheep.
This is the material used in many areas that's used when there's going to be penetrations through it, unlike
roofing felt it seals around screws and nails.
JBrow, Thanks
This is something that is existing. I haven't seen it myself so I can't really comment on exactly what is there.
He just told me that it would be going over linoleum. Personally, I have never seen linoleum used on a roof, but like I said, I haven't seen it so I can't really comment.
Jim,
He's not so much a full pledged "contractor" as much as he is the right hand man for the company he works for.
I only used the word contractor for easier communication. He has superintended many commercial builds but decking is not his field of expertise for sure.
I wouldn't read so much into it, he is basically just doing his due diligence to be sure he does it right and doesn't end up with a failure. He has never used the material before.
All he did was basically asked me if you can glue it down.
Thanks for the link, I told him about it, he knows, he's used it before.
He does know a lot about construction, he's built 3 cabins in Utah that I know of.
(He didn't use Ipe for the decks)
J Sometimes it's best to recommend to your employer to sub a job out, rather than have it fail, that won't help your relationship with your employer .There's no shame in saying you don't know something, we all have things we excel at and things we are not so good at. As an employer myself I'd much rather have an employee tell me they haven't done something than to take a project on trying to fake their way through it only to screw up and waste time and material.
It's nice of you to try and help your friend out.
Jim, it's not like that. He's been doing stuff for the man for over 20 years. He'll get it done, and he will make sure it's right. Like I said, he was just asking the simple question.
If he has to put down battens and water and ice, he will.
He won't be faking his way through, he's from the
Ha ha
I know what you mean 30 years ago being 40 years old trying to find employment in a new state, I decided my best bet was to become a contractor even though I'd only had remodeling experience in my own home repair and a commercial property I owned,so every job I took my wife would say have done this before and I'd say no but there's a book out there, much to her shock and fear, I would say I can find out how to do it.
So I guess I shouldn't be so self-righteous about faking your way through a job LOL
I think we have all been there. I never said no to a job. Many a time I faked my way through, just glad I was fortunate enough to finish the job and was able to learn during the process.
Like you, I'm sure, we had to figure it out on our own because there was no internet or youtube. We learned from hard knocks.
I think we have all been there. I never said no to a job. Many a time I faked my way through, just glad I was fortunate enough to finish the job and was able to learn during the process.
Like you, I m sure, we had to figure it out on our own because there was no internet or youtube. We learned from hard knocks.
I've been in the custom stair and railing business for nearly 27 years now….for a long time now, I've stopped saying "now I've seen everything" because every time I've said it in the past….a month later someone walks in with an idea that's a little bit(or a lot) crazier, or more grand than the last.
Just last week the owner calls me into his office and tells me a tender we (I) had put in for two stairs was accepted. He was concerned about it because it was something we've never tackled before, and it was $80,000 stairs only, no railing.
An interesting conversation ensued that entailed much of the above.
He says….so basically what your saying, is that your going to bull******************** your way through it…
Me….yep….
Got a good 'face palm' as I was walking away
Tony
How hard can it be to make amazing stair cases and handrail? I think I could do it with ease if…. I was a master woodworker and had an outstanding design sense and top-notch math and computer skills, a shop big enough to park a Boeing 777 in, plus some very skilled help and 800-1000 clamps and other great woodworking equipment.
After further evaluation, it's dam hard to do what you do and even if I wanted to try and fake my through one of your easer jobs I might be able to qualify in one of those categories listed above but first I'd have to buy 600 more clamps
As for the rest of list, I guess I'd have to have the better part of another lifetime to try and accomplish 1/2 of what's necessary to get you job done.
Keep up the great work Tony
Dude, we had a term for tradesmen like that where I came from. It's called a jac-leg. Obviously your spidy sense is up since you asking here. I'd go get a couple more quotes. What was this dude the cheapest?
i have worked with ipe and agree 100% with second post . though i have read of projects that have worked I personally have never seen it stay put .harder the wood more it grows and shrinks ,learned that as a teenager .i have used biscuits domino's and pocket screws .it ruins all cutters and blades including carbide .i have yet to find a glue that i could reliable trust . basically if your getting paid to do a job ,use a product that you can successful work with . you just cannot rely on this wood to produce something you know will make you look good . probable figured this out already and have moved on to a different plan .
I really do find how ruins all my blades and cutters disturbing . i can be finicky that way
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