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Aligning my Grizzly GO555 cast iron table?

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Forum topic by DocSavage45 posted 01-20-2017 08:50 PM 2090 views 0 times favorited 20 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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DocSavage45

8379 posts in 2682 days


01-20-2017 08:50 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question bandsaw

Need some assistance from LJ’s who have experienced this problem

My 14 inch Grizzly that I resaw on seems to have a problem with its cast iron table. the rear not being in alignment with the front along the blade slot. I think I’ve adjusted it but I’m not sure so ?

My blade was not at 90 degrees initially so I tweaked the table for straight cuts. I made a resaw jig for small logs and experimented with Lennox and Olsen blades on green lumber. Had some success. :<)

That was awhile back. Had recent success with my chainsaw milled black walnut making veneer. Recently I attempted to use the miter gauge to hold some dowel rod perpendicular to the blade while doing thin free hand slices.

Problem: Using the miter gauge that comes with the saw I’d get stuck as I was moving past the blade slot in the table. The pin is there. There is an adjustable bolt to support the far left corner of the table. the trunions appear to be cast aluminum. ( No I’ve not looked at them before)

Keeping a square to the blade I adjusted the bolt and trunions. It passes now but there is still resistance that suggests the rear to be out of alignment with the front. ( I didn’t think that was possible until Paul Sellers discussed had plane distortion in the sole of the plane)

Thanks for your assistance!

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher


20 replies so far

View Greg the Cajun Wood Artist's profile

Greg the Cajun Wood Artist

381 posts in 782 days


#1 posted 01-20-2017 09:21 PM

hey Tom… I had the same issue with my bandsaw a while back where the miter gague would bind on the back end of the table. I got my best adjustment/alignment by placing a extra miter bar guide in the bandsaw track and clamping it in the track after I had loosened the adjustment bolts. Having the miter bar clamped into the track nice and tight allowed me to get the table top sections aligned with more precision and it is still working smoothly.

-- Wood for projects is like a good Fart..."better when you cut it yourself"

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DocSavage45

8379 posts in 2682 days


#2 posted 01-20-2017 09:28 PM

Greg,

Thanks! Where you been dude? Not much social media on you. I did use a straight edge. My bandsaw miter gauge is pretty flimsy, but my table saw gauge is the real thing.

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

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Blackie_

4793 posts in 2352 days


#3 posted 01-20-2017 09:28 PM

Tom I have the same saw only the P series but the same, I’m having a hard time understanding what your problem is? Do you have both knobs tight as possible? Do you have the rear stop bolt adjusted properly? Also an investment in the digital angle reader Wixey would be a great help that is what I use.

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

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DocSavage45

8379 posts in 2682 days


#4 posted 01-20-2017 09:37 PM

Randy,

Thanks for asking and throwing out some questions I believe I did all you asked, and I will recheck it. The miter gauge gets stopped against a slight difference in the back. As I mentioned to Greg I used a good straight edge too.

Alignment appears OK as I successfully sliced some fairly thin Black Walnut veneer which was equal in dimension from beginning to end cutting.

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

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Dan

51 posts in 2177 days


#5 posted 01-20-2017 10:32 PM

Just wondering if you checked the flatness of the table close to the miter slot, with feeler gauges with the straight edge, if it shows a slight change in height past the blade slot? Is the contact to your miter bar just on the bottom and not at the sides?
If it is just the bottom or slightly on one side, use a fine sandpaper glued or PSA to a flat oak stick that fits clean flat with the paper thickness added into the miter slot and just touch it lightly across the high area in the miter slot. use perm- marker will help show the high spot the sanding will cut, so to focus your sanding in the correct spot, not the full length, just the transition area. a few thousandths is all it takes to bind on the miter bar. after the clean up, wax it good. From there it should stay. Green/ grey cast Iron will move as it ages, that is how the Hand Planes change over decades.
Best Wishes!

-- Dan Stine, Galion Ohio

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DocSavage45

8379 posts in 2682 days


#6 posted 01-20-2017 10:47 PM

Dan,

Thanks for the suggestion. I will take all of the great advice and apply as a “Rule out” on my next go round with the saw.

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

View OSB's profile

OSB

147 posts in 365 days


#7 posted 01-20-2017 10:49 PM

I would go with the easy solution and bevel the edges of the miter gauge and slot so that it can align itself without catching.

It shouldn’t need much bevel but I would make them shallow angles so the inclined plane has good mechanical advantage.

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Lazyman

1508 posts in 1227 days


#8 posted 01-20-2017 11:20 PM

You said that the alignment pin is there but was it ever left out for any length of time? I have read that if you leave the pin out of the blade slot for a while, it is very likely that the table will lose its alignment. Did you try tapping the pin in farther to see if that helps? If you put a straight edge across the blade slot, can you see a difference or slide a piece of paper or a feeler gauge under one side?

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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DocSavage45

8379 posts in 2682 days


#9 posted 01-21-2017 12:21 AM

Nathan,

If this were Jeopardy you would be almost right. loosened up everything and ran the miter gauges through again noting carefully where the catching was happening. The slides on both my gauges do’t hit the bottom of the groove. The table saw miter gauge has a much longer slide. Therefore more stable in changing plane from one side to the other. Did a “what if?” and removed the pin and then used a 6 inch F clamp at the slit between the two sides with a lot of pressure. Then aligned the table with the blade, tighten the trunions and brought the leveling bolt up flush to the table and re inserted the pin.

Changed my technique of where I press don on the miter gauge and I’m hammy to say ”It isn’t catching!”
Thanks for your suggestions

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

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Lazyman

1508 posts in 1227 days


#10 posted 01-21-2017 03:01 AM



... and brought the leveling bolt up flush to the table and re inserted the pin.

How far in does the alignment pin go? Is it up flush against the table or could it go in a little more if tapped in? Just wondering if you’ve got the right pin for this saw or it is worn or something?

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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DocSavage45

8379 posts in 2682 days


#11 posted 01-21-2017 03:14 AM

Nathan,

The pin has a hex head on it. it was in tight. no play and it is in tight now.

What Grizzly saw do you have?

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

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Lazyman

1508 posts in 1227 days


#12 posted 01-21-2017 06:04 PM

I have the G0513 17”. One thing that I have noticed on mine is that the alignment is actually worse if I tape the alignment pin in too far. Probably a sign of less than perfect manufacturing?

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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DocSavage45

8379 posts in 2682 days


#13 posted 01-22-2017 12:08 AM

Nathan,

Is your GO513 the anniversary edition or the extreme edition?

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

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Lazyman

1508 posts in 1227 days


#14 posted 01-22-2017 12:34 AM

Anniversary edition. I was originally going to get the 555 but they had a sale on the 513ANN that made it less expensive than the 555 extreme with the riser so I decided to get the bigger one instead. No complaints.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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DocSavage45

8379 posts in 2682 days


#15 posted 01-22-2017 12:54 AM

Nathan,

I have been eyeing the 17 inch saws and there differences. Did you spend the extra for the cast iron trunion? If you have seen my projects I built a few add ons for milling on my little saw. I believe the limits are the blade sizes. 5/8ths is the largest blade that should be used on my saw.

Possibly the trunions are affecting your table?

I advocate the lazy man theory. LOL!

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

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