Am I using wrong product? Or doing it wrong.

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Forum topic by Steven H posted 09-02-2010 02:59 AM 1158 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Steven H

1117 posts in 2481 days

09-02-2010 02:59 AM

I want a glossy shiny finish on my push stick, so went to buy Varathane
Diamond Polyurethane (spray can version). Clear Gloss

The wood is stained with minwax.

So I sprayed 4 times.An 30 minture dry between recoat. Before final coat sand with 220.

I notice some part of wood is glossy and some aren’t.

14 replies so far

View lew's profile


11264 posts in 3176 days

#1 posted 09-02-2010 03:50 AM

Spraying with clear coatings can be “misleading” because it’s hard to see where the coverage is sufficient. Maybe, after sanding, you missed a few spots.

Just my 2ยข

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

View patron's profile


13524 posts in 2762 days

#2 posted 09-02-2010 03:56 AM

more coats more sanding
spray cans can be thin coats

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View vicrider's profile


179 posts in 2319 days

#3 posted 09-02-2010 04:30 AM

i always suggest a seal coat of Shellac prior to applying any ‘film building’ finish. It sounds as if you are not getting a consistent absorption of your gloss finish.

-- vicrider

View Steven H's profile

Steven H

1117 posts in 2481 days

#4 posted 09-02-2010 05:22 AM

This is my first time using water base Polyurethane
please bear with me
I notice the grain on the wood is the only part is shiny. Similiar like this.

Is it because the wood im finishing causing this?
It is pine that I’m using.

View Bearpie's profile


2601 posts in 2439 days

#5 posted 09-02-2010 06:12 AM

You are getting absorption into the soft parts of the wood and maybe a couple more coats will do it! Pine is notorious for absorption into soft parts before it is finally saturated enough to finally stay on the surface.

Erwin, Jacksonville, FL

-- Erwin, Jacksonville, FL

View Rick  Dennington's profile

Rick Dennington

5105 posts in 2615 days

#6 posted 09-02-2010 07:07 AM

Greetings StevenH,

This may sound like a dumb question, but why do you need a shiny push stick? It’s just a push stick…. a tool…...not a piece of furniture that requires a glossy finish…’re gonna get it dirty the more you use it I make mine out of plywood, smooth them down, and now they are dirty brown from using them…...

-- At my age, an "all--nighter" is not having to get up and pee...!!!

View Manitario's profile


2393 posts in 2304 days

#7 posted 09-02-2010 08:32 AM

My own brief experience with Diamond polyurethane I sanded with 220 between each coat, and used 4 coats total. I had to put a heavier first couple of coats on. Granted though, I brushed it on rather than spray it…

-- Sometimes the creative process requires foul language. -- Charles Neil

View grosa's profile


997 posts in 2250 days

#8 posted 09-03-2010 06:43 AM

You need some more coats of finish. Sand with 220 between coats and build it up. Pine sucks it up like a straw. You should use a sealer on soft woods.

-- Have a great day.

View Rick's profile


8287 posts in 2453 days

#9 posted 09-04-2010 02:59 AM

I do the same thing basically as vicrider suggested, especially for pine. One difference. Long time ago a Painter taught me to mix White Shellac with Methyl Hydrate about 50/50 as a Sealer. It dries Really Quickly and you can do a couple of coats in a half hour or so. Seals Nicely.

Methyl Hydrate is also used as “Fondue Fuel”, they add a lilltle color to it and charge you $$$$$’s for it. Right out of a $3.00 Plastic Container sold in the Paint Department is just as good. There’s probably other uses for it also. That stuff Burns MEGA HOT!


-- Hope Everyone Is Doing Well! .... Best Regards: Rick

View Dark_Lightning's profile


2620 posts in 2530 days

#10 posted 09-04-2010 03:11 AM

Methyl Hydrate is also known as methanol (methyl alcohol). Personally, I’d put the shellac on straight. One coat instead of two thinned coats. Just don’t put it in your grape juice, it’ll make you go blind.

And, yes it appears that the summer wood is really sucking up the finish. That’s typical.

-- Random Orbital Nailer

View William's profile


9906 posts in 2263 days

#11 posted 09-04-2010 03:18 AM

In my opinion, pine is one of the worst woods to finish. The softer spots absorbs finish like a sponge while other parts take it quite well. It can make a beautifully interesting wood grain when using dark stains, not so great with clear finishes. Several suggestions have already been made for seal coat. If I’m just putting clear finish on pine though, I seal it first with Minwax sanding sealer.


View TheOldTimer's profile


226 posts in 2507 days

#12 posted 09-04-2010 03:58 AM

As stated above, two coats of de-waxed shellac. I do not sand the shellac I sand the first top coat with 320 grit paper then sand between coats with 400.

-- TheOldTimer,Chandler Arizona

View bob101's profile


283 posts in 2871 days

#13 posted 09-06-2010 03:54 AM

dont waste the time on something your going to end up getting kerf cuts on anyway, i go threw push sticks like crazy, (plywood). maybe thats just me though!

-- rob, ont,canada

View rance's profile


4243 posts in 2581 days

#14 posted 09-06-2010 04:08 AM

Finish, or no finish, it’s up to you. Nothing wrong with wierd tools. I finish some of my jigs too. But you DON’T want to finish the bottom of your push stick, it needs to grip the wood as best as possible. :)

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

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