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Workbench Top Timber ??

8K views 16 replies 10 participants last post by  Rob186 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I decided to build a new workbench and I have some ideas for the timber to use, but am not really sure. I am thinking of using long-leaf pine for the whole bench but i am having trouble finding some around. It would be extremely helpful if someone could give me some ideas/alternatives. It can't be overly expensive but it needs to be durable enough to build a bench out of it????? HELP!!!
(ps: not plywood/mdf)
 
#4 ·
Joshua, I don't know what types of wood are used in dimensional lumber in your part of Australia, but the characteristics of a wood for a workbench are resistance to bending and denting. It should also be fairly dense. Check out the 2×10s and 2×12s at your lumber yard. The idea here is to use the wood that's available. The difference between the #1 best wood and the 10th best wood is not a big factor in the way the bench functions.

The Schwarz book is a good resource.
 
#6 ·
thanks for the comments everyone.
(scott bryan) i read about long leaf pine in a popular woodworking book written by Christopher Schwarz that says long-leaf pine is just another name for southern yellow pine so im still looking for other options.
 
#8 ·
Joshua,

I know you said you didn't want MDF or ply, but if you're having trouble finding inexpensive alternatives, you should think about MDF. I've created two workbenches with MDF (two slabs glued together for 1 1/2" thickness). Tough, durable, and inexpensive. Any issues with it in the future and you can easily replace it (I've never had to do that, though). If you want significantly more "heft" to it, you could go for 3" thick (four slabs), but two have been plenty rigid for me.

Here's a picture of one of mine (with tail vise and bench dog holes):



See my blog entry about it here for the complete details.

phlepper
 
#9 · (Edited by Moderator)
Long leaf pine and SYP (southern yellow pine) are not the same. Here in North Carolina, long-leaf used to be plentiful, and was used in a lot of construction up to about 50 years ago. All the long-leafs were logged out, and now are a protected species in this state. They grow slower, are much harder and rot resistant than southern yellow pine, which now pretty much means loblolly pine, a faster growing tree, but still slower than slash pine which is now categorized in the SPF (spruce, fir, pine) classification. The loblollies are now getting more scarce, so its harder to find SYP anymore.

SYP will harden some over time, and will make a decent but soft surfaced bench. It is not too much harder and no stronger than cypress. I prefer oak, which is almost as cheap if you go to the sawyer.

To give you an idea of how long leaf pine (which is redder in color by the way) hardens, my Mother-in-Law's house was built in the early 1950's by my FIL (who died before finishing the trim inside). When I installed casings and trim on the interior doorways, I used a 20 oz framing hammer to drive in the finishing nails (had to use #8s). It was either that or pre-drill the holes, and after breaking 4 drill bits, I just went with stronger nails and a bigger hammer.

That said, there are many imports now from South America in the pine family (arauco is one) that are harder. You may find something in NSW that is dense and stable coming from Indonesia or South America that we here in the US can't afford due to import costs. Probably a tree that takes 20-30 years before it gets to a 12" diameter trunk.

Go
 
#10 ·
Thanks for the info 'Gofor' i really learnt a bit from that. Ive also looked at Cypress Pine and it is relatively common around NSW. I think Cypress is definitely another option. And good idea 'Phlepper', Although i would prefer a more natural look to my bench. An aesthetic view really. I will continue to research.
 
#13 ·
Chuck: Hickory will make a really tough work bench surface, but will be somewhat tough to work with also. (A lot like kiln-dried white oak). It will splinter readily when planed against the grain, so, if possible, align the surface grain on your top so that all the grain runs in the same direction. Also will dull tools quickly, but so will white oak, hard maple, etc. 10/4 should be plenty thick to make a top, and remember that the bottom side only has to be milled straight and flat where a cross-member or support is going. You can flatten the bottom side if you want, but remember that only the areas of support or where a vise, etc mounts are the critical areas. This will apply if, like me, you end up using hand tools to do a lot of the work because your power tools aren't big enough.

Go
 
#15 ·
Forget Tas Oak. Ive been researching a lot and i have sent an email to many sawmills/timber specialists regarding A quote on White ash. Ive seen many projects on this website using this material and it fits the requirements. Hopefully I will hear back for the quote. By the way if anyone is interested i can post a google sketchup drawing of the bench.
 
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