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Craftsman 10" table saw

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Forum topic by Dophi posted 09-01-2010 02:52 AM 2980 views 1 time favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Dophi

27 posts in 2288 days


09-01-2010 02:52 AM

I have a very old saw, model 133.29581C. Sears doesn’t have a listing for it and could not provide a manual.I’m having trouble with fence alignment and retention. I should probably buy another fence system but don’t want to spend the money before I find out if the saw is of any use. The fence does not have a lock down type handle but rather a hexagonal metal knob about 4” long that you turn to lock the fence. At the back end of the fence is a metal stirp about 1” wide by 4” tall with a cutout for the shaft supporting the back roller and connected to the knob I mentioned. The cutout is square, about 3/8”. The strip sits in a spring metal clip. My problem with it is that it falls out. There doesn’t appear to be anything to retain it in place. Does anyone have any information on this fence in general and the use of the spring clip in particular. I would appreciate any help I can get.

Thanks.

Don


11 replies so far

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Camper

232 posts in 2319 days


#1 posted 09-01-2010 03:06 AM

Hi Don, are you sure that is not 113 instead of 133…I can only see model numbers for table saws with 113.

-- Tampa-FL

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Dophi

27 posts in 2288 days


#2 posted 09-01-2010 03:51 AM

Hi Camper.
133 American Yard Products as the manufacturer. The saw was sold by Simpsons Sears Canada. That will give an idea of its age.

Don

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Rick Dennington

5177 posts in 2658 days


#3 posted 09-01-2010 03:53 AM

Greetings Don,
I think Camper is correct in the number…. I have an old Craftsman 10” saw, and the # is 113. 298. I’t a contractor saw I bought brand new, and have had it for 26-27 years…..Still running as smooth as the day I bought it….Still has the same belt, pulleys, and 3 hp. motor… I recently built a new cabinet system for it( you can see it in my blogs).... Anyway.. the best thing I can tell you to do is scrap the old fence(they were a piece of s@$$&*&^^..... Get a new fence and retro-fit it to the saw…you’ll be glad you spent the bucks, and you’ll have a decent saw to work with once you have it tuned up and running…..I use a Delta Unisaw X5 for most of my work, and use the Craftsman for dados and rabbits…..the older saws were far better then than now….

-- At my age, an "all--nighter" is not having to get up and pee...!!!

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Dophi

27 posts in 2288 days


#4 posted 09-01-2010 03:54 AM

Hi Camper.

I don’t know what happened. Only part of my reply was posted.

I verified the code to be 133. The complete list of codes can be found at

http://professional-power-tool-guide.com/manufacturers/craftsman-power-tool-company/sears-and-craftsman-source-product-code/

Don

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Dophi

27 posts in 2288 days


#5 posted 09-01-2010 04:10 AM

The unit is a direct drive..no belts or pulleys. I can’t get at the motor to determine the size, but it definitely is not a 3HP. It runs single phase on 120 v. It was built in the USA. I believe I read or heard somewhere that model numbers ending in “C” were manufactured for export to Canada. All of the writing on the machine is in both English and French.

Don

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Camper

232 posts in 2319 days


#6 posted 09-02-2010 04:25 AM

Hi DOn, the reason I asked is i founf these two manuals which ar every close to the number you posted. Take a look to see if they are anything like what you have. Hope it works out

Link 1=

link 2=

I was able to find a number of manuals at this site…

-- Tampa-FL

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Dophi

27 posts in 2288 days


#7 posted 09-02-2010 09:22 PM

Hi Camper.

While I was searching to find my saw, I found some info about ‘tuning’ the fence. I tried it and found a great improvement. I also discovered one part was broken/worn out. I continued searching and found what I thought might be the equivalent of my saw. There were three different models all using a fence that looks exatly like mine. It turns out I need the fence lock rod. I called Sears. They don’t carry that fence any longer, however I was able to order the rod. Then I received your response, took a look at the two models you found. Unfortunately for me, they look to be a closer match to my saw. Worse yet, they use a different fence and the fence lock rod is also a different part number. So, I guess i’ll have to wait for the one I ordered and see if it fits.

Thanks for your research. Although the site you provided is US, I can still use it for searches, I just have to convince the Cdn Sears Parts Service to switch to the US when I call.

Thanks again.

Don

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Dophi

27 posts in 2288 days


#8 posted 11-23-2010 03:37 AM

I finally received the fence lock rod about one month ago. My concern was verified, it isn’t the exact replacement. I’m guessing that one of the two references you gave me might have been the right one. The one I received has the same general configuration. The length seems to be the big difference, it’s about 5 1/2 inches longer. I’m going to cut it down to the same length, thread it and see what happens. Hopefully I’ll do that faster than I replied to the post. :-)

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Dophi

27 posts in 2288 days


#9 posted 01-30-2011 10:14 PM

I got around to having the lock rod modified. The profile is very similar to the one on the saw so I had the new one shortened and threaded. Spent a lot of time making adjustments. In the end I couldn’t get anything closer than one millimeter difference between the front and the back of the blade. The measurement was always more narrow at the back of the blade, menaing I would always be looking at a binding and very dangerous situation. In addition, the alignment could not be repeated without many measurements and adjustments for each different cut. I bit the bullet and bought a Red-Line fence system. Now I’ve discovered a new series of challenges. It most definitely won’t mount without some modes to the saw.

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jaydad17

17 posts in 2837 days


#10 posted 01-31-2011 02:00 PM

hey there dophi
i have an early 80’s craftsman table saw and like you i found the factory fence to be lacking to say the least. I purchased a delta t-square fence for it. All I had to do to make the install was to drill the holes for the mounting bars and not even all of them some of the original ones lined up. when i mounted to the rear bar i shimmed it about 1/4 of an inch to make the make the rear bar fit snug with the fence. My deflection is about .005. hope this helps

-- Jay NE Tennessee

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Dophi

27 posts in 2288 days


#11 posted 01-31-2011 07:30 PM

I don’t know the age of my saw. Sears has no record of it, so I’m guessing it’s OLD! It’s similar in appearance to the one linked in a previous reply here. The table is cast metal of some sort with ridges throughout and the wings are stamped metal. The wings are going to present a challenge. The bolts holding them to the table and used on the corner angle brackets to keep them level/straight, are going to require shims to allow the mounting of the back rail. A much bigger concern is the shaft for the spreader and blade guard. It runs from front to back of the saw and protrudes about 5 inches from the back. I tried dismantling the saw to remove the shaft. I discovered it serves other purposes and cannot be removed. I thought of cutting it flush with the back of the table. I’m not sure that is such a good idea. Although I don’t plan on having the spreader and blade guard once the new fence is on, I’m thinking I should leave the shaft in case someone else wants to use them. I have two approaches I’m considering for the back rail. Either split the rail and put a piece on either side of the shaft or drill the rail to accommodate the shaft. The second option may not work depending on how the rail lines up horizontally with the shaft. I’m sure there are pros and cons to both approaches. I’d appreciate hearing from anyone who has had a similar problem.

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