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plane wedge "quick release"?

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Forum topic by luthierwnc posted 01-16-2017 03:51 PM 502 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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luthierwnc

143 posts in 1609 days


01-16-2017 03:51 PM

Hi All,

I’m working on a DIY side-rabbet set and plan to wedge the irons in place. I’d like to know if anyone has a design to release the tension on the wedge other than smacking the thing?

Thanks, sh


16 replies so far

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Don W

18520 posts in 2400 days


#1 posted 01-16-2017 04:24 PM

Add a cap screw to the wedge. Of course it then becomes a lever cap so it’s not called a wedge anymore.

-- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

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luthierwnc

143 posts in 1609 days


#2 posted 01-16-2017 08:40 PM

I got the idea here:

https://www.hntgordon.com.au/using-hand-tools/12-initial-blade-set-up/48-blade-setting-side-rebate-plane.html

But a) I can’t figure out how it works from the pictures and b) I don’t like to borrow proprietary ideas from people who make their living from them—at least not that I would share publicly.

Somebody must have a quick-release feature waiting to be rediscovered, sh

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Don W

18520 posts in 2400 days


#3 posted 01-16-2017 09:53 PM

I think that is just a normal strike button made out of brass. There is no secrete to it.

-- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

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Don W

18520 posts in 2400 days


#4 posted 01-16-2017 09:59 PM

this article explains it

https://www.bobvila.com/articles/2088-making-plane-adjustments/

-- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

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JayT

5453 posts in 2044 days


#5 posted 01-16-2017 10:01 PM

I agree with Don. That is just a raised brass strike button.

-- In matters of style, swim with the current; in matters of principle, stand like a rock. Thomas Jefferson

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luthierwnc

143 posts in 1609 days


#6 posted 01-16-2017 10:46 PM

Could be .. but in the top picture in my first post, the button looks dead flush. In subsequent pictures, it’s proud of the surface. If you blow-up this shot, you can see the button is beveled and there is a gap on both the long and short side. I think that thing moves and the brass pin has something to do with it. Since that portion of the plane doesn’t need to be open to remove shavings, there would be no reason to use that pin as a pivot point for a simple wedge—you’d just mortise the hole to fit the wedge directly against what I’m guessing is some very hard Australian wood.

It’s a mystery. sh

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luthierwnc

143 posts in 1609 days


#7 posted 01-16-2017 10:53 PM

Here’s a blown-up shot that shows a brass insert against the forward wall of the cavity

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luthierwnc

143 posts in 1609 days


#8 posted 01-19-2017 09:17 PM

Bump

Any bites on what this is? Thanks, sh

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TheTurtleCarpenter

988 posts in 899 days


#9 posted 01-19-2017 10:08 PM

-- "Tying shoelaces was way harder than learning to Whistle",,,,,member MWTCA area K. Kentucky

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TheTurtleCarpenter

988 posts in 899 days


#10 posted 01-19-2017 10:16 PM

Here is the only other Idea I have seen in the past; This old plane was an early Mathiason and had a Shock Rod morticed and screwed in the bed behind the blade. As you strike the rod the blade moves opposite. This could be done with rod stock and epoxied in. Good luck and post pictures when you finish.

-- "Tying shoelaces was way harder than learning to Whistle",,,,,member MWTCA area K. Kentucky

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luthierwnc

143 posts in 1609 days


#11 posted 01-20-2017 01:05 PM

Thanks TheTurtleCarpenter;

Here’s what I got. The dimensions and placement are only to get the movement in my head right. I’m sure it would take some plywood mock-ups to make it smooth. This is a two-part mechanism. The paddle is pinned inside the button (shown in gray but also brass). That assembly is pinned through the sides (yellow rod) as the pivot point.

As the wedge is driven into the plane, the paddle compresses against wood and steel. Tap the front of the button and it rocks up to relieve the pressure.

Will it work? I think so. I’m building the planes (right and left) traditionally. I made a pine and plywood test version to get the angles partially figured-out and found that because the bottom is so open (the mouth is on the side), it’s simple to just knock the pin out from the bottom. For a conventional plane with a tight mouth, this might come in handy.

I’ll post the finished pictures when I get them done, Skip

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TheTurtleCarpenter

988 posts in 899 days


#12 posted 01-20-2017 06:45 PM

Skip; That looks like it will work fine with some tweaking on the pivot position. I love everything Gordon makes, I ordered 2 from his site Monday. I like the way he added the brass bushings for the pin.

-- "Tying shoelaces was way harder than learning to Whistle",,,,,member MWTCA area K. Kentucky

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Don W

18520 posts in 2400 days


#13 posted 01-20-2017 11:06 PM

I don’t understand what makes the paddle stay against the wedge.

-- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

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luthierwnc

143 posts in 1609 days


#14 posted 01-21-2017 01:03 AM

Don, You’ve exposed my drafting deficiencies! In this version, the center board of the plane is shown in light brown cutaway. That’s the registration surface for the paddle. Hit the front of the button, the paddle is pulled up creating enough of a gap between the paddle and wedge to break the tension. sh

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Don W

18520 posts in 2400 days


#15 posted 01-21-2017 11:38 AM

Got it , thanks

-- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

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