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Which scroll saw balde to use.

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Forum topic by Stephen posted 08-31-2010 06:14 PM 2186 views 0 times favorited 29 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Stephen

39 posts in 2309 days


08-31-2010 06:14 PM

I have been cutting some with my new scroll saw and am ready for a real project. I have been practicing with soft woods making lots of straight lines and circles, turning corners and practicing with the warm up exercise mentioned by some of the users here and in the scroll saw how to books.
Now…I wana make some nativity sets from 2×6 red wood. I want the building to stand with the background to recede and the characters to be protruding. Thats why the 2 inch stock. I have a pattern from somewhere here on the net.

Which blade would be best for cutting this thick soft wood?

Thanks
Stephen

-- Loving it in Tucson .... Stephen


29 replies so far

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patron

13537 posts in 2805 days


#1 posted 08-31-2010 06:25 PM

i’m with you , stephen ,

i don’t use my saw much ,
because i don’t get the results others seem to .

i believe it is the blade .

i have a watch here ,
so we can learn together .

thanks for the post .

maybe someone will give us a reference
for all types of cutting ?

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View nailbanger2's profile

nailbanger2

1041 posts in 2608 days


#2 posted 08-31-2010 06:37 PM

I think this is a job for …... Scroll Girl !

In order to sell more patterns, she has to get more people involved in scroll work, right?

-- Wish I were Norm's Nephew

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brunob

2277 posts in 3633 days


#3 posted 08-31-2010 06:39 PM

My suggestion is to check out P S Wood. They have a wide variety and each blade explains its use. They’re not too expensive so you could try several. That said, 2” stock is pretty thick for a scroll saw. When I’m cutting stock that thick, I use the band saw.

-- Bruce from Central New York...now, if you'll pardon me, I have some sawdust to make.

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Stephen

39 posts in 2309 days


#4 posted 08-31-2010 06:43 PM

I found the pattern at Steve Good’s site
Here is the link: http://www.stevedgood.com/simplenativity.pdf
I’m going to make the rounded top more building shaped and a similar shape outside that to represent the outside of the building

-- Loving it in Tucson .... Stephen

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brunob

2277 posts in 3633 days


#5 posted 08-31-2010 06:48 PM

Looked at the pattern. Looks like he used 3/4” glued up. No problem for a scroll saw. My preference in blades is skip tooth. But I’d still try several to see which you like best.

-- Bruce from Central New York...now, if you'll pardon me, I have some sawdust to make.

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Stephen

39 posts in 2309 days


#6 posted 08-31-2010 06:56 PM

what do you mean “glued up” brunob?

-- Loving it in Tucson .... Stephen

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richgreer

4541 posts in 2539 days


#7 posted 08-31-2010 07:03 PM

This is not a direct answer to your question but, in my opinion, 2 inch stock should not be cut by a scroll saw unless you have a special saw. On most scroll saws the amount of movement up and down is about 1” – maybe a little more but certainly not 2”. That means that there will be teeth on the blade that will not get exposed outside of the wood. More importantly, those little gullets between the teeth will not be exposed and will not have a chance to release the saw dust that builds up in them.

I have cut some 3/4” stock with a scroll saw and I consider that to be the practical limit.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

7147 posts in 2378 days


#8 posted 08-31-2010 07:46 PM

What Rich says, 3/4” tops. Suggest gluing up cut pieces if you need a thicker presentation.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

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brunob

2277 posts in 3633 days


#9 posted 08-31-2010 07:53 PM

By glued up, I mean they cut the pattern out of one piece of 3/4” stock and glued it to another piece for the back making the total thickness 1 1/2”.

-- Bruce from Central New York...now, if you'll pardon me, I have some sawdust to make.

View grizzman's profile

grizzman

7798 posts in 2767 days


#10 posted 08-31-2010 08:18 PM

2/0 reverse tooth Olsen Blades…....these are the blades that sheila has been using and had wonderful success..but ask her to be sure for what your cutting…but over all i think these are a great blade ..she has been cutting in hardwood…in fact she used this blade in some hickory the other day and it worked masterfully..good luck…..oh ..she has strongly recommended these blades and olsen as the manufacturer .

-- GRIZZMAN ...[''''']

View William's profile

William

9906 posts in 2306 days


#11 posted 08-31-2010 09:49 PM

Contact Mike at http://www.mikesworkshop.com/ and he can tell you just what blade you need. He sells Flying Dutchman blades, which is all I use.
By the way, I cut 2” material all the time on my scroll saw. I’m talking glued up actuall two full inches. Anyone who tells you that it can’t be done just hasn’t done it. With some practice, you’ll amaze some people what can be done on a scroll saw. If you check out my projects, all my rocking toys are cut on an old Craftsman direct drive scroll saw. The plans say use a bandsaw, but I get a smoother, more controlled sut on the scroll saw.

-- http://wddsrfinewoodworks.blogspot.com/

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William

9906 posts in 2306 days


#12 posted 08-31-2010 09:54 PM

Oh, another idea I wanted to present to you. I have read a lot of books and know about the “exercises” they all tell you to practice with. I disagree with all of them. I do more scrolling than anything else and I firmly believe the best way to get scrolling is to pick a rather simple project you like and get to it. You will make mistakes. Learn from them and keep going. I have made many pieces of fancy firewood. Go check out my blog at http://wddsrfinewoodworks.blogspot.com/ and see the kind of work I do and I’ve only been scrolling a little over two years. If you have any problems or questions, myself or most all scrollers are always happy to help. Just ask. Just about any problem you can have scrolling, all of us have went through.

-- http://wddsrfinewoodworks.blogspot.com/

View Stephen's profile

Stephen

39 posts in 2309 days


#13 posted 08-31-2010 10:18 PM

I gave it a try William. I am trying to upload the photo here. I made if from 2×6 redwood.

cripes….that’s big…can’t see the whole thing but ya get the idea.

-- Loving it in Tucson .... Stephen

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MrsN

975 posts in 2990 days


#14 posted 09-01-2010 01:48 AM

Great Job!
I have made this project with 3/4” wood, and it turned out great.
It is late but if I was going to try cutting one out of 2” wood, I would start with an Olsen #5 skip tooth. It is my go to blade for anything over 1/2”. Not sure how hard your redwood is, I may go up in size if I think it is not cutting well.
Now that I think about it, I think the maximum stroke on my saw is about 2”. The distance from the table to the top of the blade at the lowest point in its stroke. I have cut a few 2×4’s (1.5” thickness). I may have to measure that tonight. I try to stick to cutting things less then 1” on the scroll saw, it is easier and I don’t like to work harder then I have to.
MrsN

-- ----- www.KNWoodworking.com ----- --

View Stephen's profile

Stephen

39 posts in 2309 days


#15 posted 09-01-2010 02:02 AM

Thanks MrsN
I guess a 2×6 is not really 2 inches huh? I don’t know what they are now. Back when I was a kid they were…..ummmm.. heck I don’t remember that far back. Cripes I’m geten old.

-- Loving it in Tucson .... Stephen

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