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Surfacing rough lumber without a 16" jointer

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Forum topic by GaryK posted 675 days ago 9380 views 122 times favorited 90 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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GaryK

9537 posts in 886 days


675 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: jig planer router jointer

If you don’t mine a little extra work, you can save money on lumber by buying it rough.

This will sometimes get you a little extra wood. For example 8/4 surfaced lumber is 1 3/4”
thick because it has been smoothed on both sides. Rough lumber would be an actual
2”. Now if the board is really flat you may be able to get a 1 7/8 thick board out of it.

Anyway the problem is that most people don’t have a wide enough jointer to smooth
one surface flat so that you can run it through your planer. This is how I do it.

I finally had my workbench clear of other projects so I thought I would share with you how I surface
rough lumber without the jointer. Now this method can work with almost any width lumber. I have a 13”
planer so I use that as my limit even though you can do wider boards as I will explain.

First you need a jig. I made mine 10’ so that I could do up to 9’ boards.
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It’s basically a long narrow piece of plywood with a couple of guides attached upright along the length.
I added a stop block at each end to keep from over shooting with the router. Laying across are a couple
of sticks I use when I don’t want to route the entire surface.

Here is a closeup of the hook added to the end.
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Then I made a sled on wheels to mount the router on.
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The slots allow me to move the router to any position from the middle all the way to the right.
Then just rotate the sled 180 degrees you get to the other side.
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I use a 1 1/2’ bottoming bit
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Now it time to start with your lumber. I use small wedges to keep if from rocking.
I use a level as a straight edge to try to get both ends as level as I can.
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Then I use pairs of wedges to keep the piece in place while routing.
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Then I set the router depth to the lowest point on the lumber. If it’s really bad I take
two passes. Then I route the entire length of the board keeping about 1” from the edge.
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Then flip the router around and make a second pass along the other edge.
At this point if you board is narrow you can just surface the entire surface and you are ready for the planer.
And if you didn’t have a planer wide enough you could flip the board over and do the other side.
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If you have a really wide board as I do here and you don’t want to make a ton of chips you can use
those two strips of wood I showed you earlier and use them as spacers in the two grooves you
just milled. The blue tape is to keep them in place as I move it around.
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I use them like you would use a planer sled.
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After you are done you have one side perfectly jointed. Then just flip it over and take it to thickness
as you normally would.
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Here you can also see the Wixey planer gauge upgrade on the right side of the planer.
.

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

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Bob #2

3050 posts in 919 days


675 days ago

Excellent Gary. It’s been on the back burner forever here. I’m glad you prodded me again.
Very nice cradle. Just the right size for my shop too.

Bob

-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner

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Thos. Angle

4013 posts in 860 days


675 days ago

Really great instructions, Gary. Thanks for the tips.

-- Thos. Angle

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Max

14507 posts in 1171 days


675 days ago

This is great, thanks Gary.

-- Max "Desperado", Salt Lake City, UT

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Karson

25806 posts in 1298 days


675 days ago

Great tips Gary. Nice job on the design and implementation.

-- What happens in the workshop stays in the workshop. No wait that doesn't sound right. Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

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Peter O

1027 posts in 772 days


675 days ago

Very good idea! I’ve done something similar, but without the wheels and carrier strips. You’ve definately taken this idea to the next level.

-- http://www.north40custom.com -- http://north40studios.etsy.com --

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mot

4903 posts in 934 days


675 days ago

That’s perfect Gary. I’ve read about this, but didn’t know anyone that had tried it. cool.

-- You can discover more about a person in an hour of play than in a year of conversation. (Plato)

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Rymann

11 posts in 675 days


675 days ago

This is brilliant. Very cool.

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Dorje

1767 posts in 894 days


675 days ago

What a great strategy!

-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA

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rikkor

11335 posts in 772 days


675 days ago

That’s a heads up method for jointing and planing without multi-thousand dollar tools. Good blog.

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Russel

2063 posts in 836 days


675 days ago

Ingenuity is a good quality to have. This is a very well explained method of getting that first surface right. Thanks for the post.

-- Working at Woodworking http://www.VillageLaneFurniture.com

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Chris

1469 posts in 889 days


675 days ago

Best version of this jig I have ever seen… Thanks!

-- Chris

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gene

2165 posts in 781 days


675 days ago

Thanks Gary, The step by step was great.
God bless

-- Gene, a Christian in Virginia

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Bill

2561 posts in 1059 days


675 days ago

Great tutorial Gary, along with a nice method of “jointing” a flat surface on a board. It looks like a great idea for those of use with a smaller jointer.

-- Bill, Turlock California, http://www.brookswoodworks.com

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Sam Yerardi

236 posts in 793 days


675 days ago

Good work , Gary. Nice pictures, too!

-- Sam

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jcees

552 posts in 696 days


675 days ago

That’s a keeper. I’m going to borrow that one real soon. I usually crosscut near-to-size then work one side dead flat with hand planes then feed the rough side to the planer on a sled. Your jig handles long boards and can easily be adapted for shorter stock. Sweet! This one will be a major labor saver on the days I don’t have the time to push a plane. Nice job.

always,
J.C.

-- "Imagination is more important than knowledge" -- Albert Einstein

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Grumpy

14932 posts in 748 days


674 days ago

Great way to recieve a good result Gary. Thanks for sharing.

-- Grumpy - "Always look on the bright side of life"- Monty Python

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Zuki

1230 posts in 975 days


674 days ago

Geeze . . . good work there G-man. Excellent pictures and text. Explained it very well indeed.

-- The significant problems we face cannot be solved by the same level of thinking that created them

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JJackson

106 posts in 980 days


674 days ago

Gary,
You spent a lot of time designing this and building it and I think you have done a great job. Nice work!

-- Jeff, Indiana

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Mike309

11 posts in 686 days


674 days ago

Thanks Gary, you have solved one of my problems. Excellent.

-- Mike

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Tony Z

173 posts in 687 days


673 days ago

Nice. I’ll trade you for my RAS. That’s a sweet jig. I’m definately building one of those. I like the idea of the runners in the grooves.

-- Tony, Ohio

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jockmike2

7349 posts in 1144 days


673 days ago

I wish I’d known about this sooner, I ripped 4 or 5 12 ft bds that were just too wide for my planer. The only other thing like this I’ve seen is one Mark DeCou used to flatten some wide boards. He had the same basic set up but just went back and forth to flatten his board. This is cool, no it’s way cool. mike

-- Mike. mwurm13@yahoo.com

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Gofor

109 posts in 684 days


673 days ago

Not having a power jointer (I have been using hand planes), I will definitely use this tip. Thank You for posting it!!

-- Go http://ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=730

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SPalm

951 posts in 779 days


673 days ago

Good Job.
I be it would work well for surfacing cutting boards too.

-- Stevethepeeve -- I'm no rocket surgeon

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GaryK

9537 posts in 886 days


673 days ago

SPalm – It should work great for cutting boards. I hadn’t thought of that.

You could do many at the same time also.

Easier to sharpen a router bit than planer blades after cutting endgrain.

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

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patrick m

179 posts in 710 days


673 days ago

Wow, outta my league for now any way” That;s sweet I had a hazy dream once about a shop like yours!!!!! I’m still hearing it from the little lady about saw dust everywhere. . Some day O’ one of these days… All work now is still on site. Two thumbs up on this project it’s the thing us rookies drool over…...

-- PJM.`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸ ><((((º> ""BY HAMMER AND HAND ALL ARTS DO STAND""1785-1974 nyc Semper Fi, Patrick M

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GaryK

9537 posts in 886 days


672 days ago

Another note. If you buy rough lumber, see if you could find someplace local to mill it for you.

I have a place about 30 miles from me that will surface both sides for 7 1/2 cents a BF. That’s $7.50
per 100 BF. ( Why board foot and not linear foot I don’t know?)

So adding $.10 a BF for surfacing would still make it worth it to buy your lumber rough.

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

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codafile5

14 posts in 668 days


668 days ago

This must be the top project yet, now that makes 14 projects to do, and I havent got all my equipment together yet. as I,m new to the lumberjocks. Expertly provided !

-- Keith, Chester, England

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Joe Lyddon

486 posts in 950 days


655 days ago

That’s a cool shortcut! :)

Very informative…

Thank you.

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

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dalec

580 posts in 786 days


620 days ago

Gary,

After your recommendation that I consider a planer over a jointer due to the typical budget and space limitations in my garage/workshop, I finally ordered/received my planer. I looked hard at the Delta and Dewalt 13” planers. Finally decided to go with the Dewalt because of the chip blower and three blades.

I am about to begin flattening some boards, so I did a LJ search of came across your tutorial on this topic.

Have to say LJ is a great resource for beginners. Sure helps with the learning curve.

Thanks,

Dalec

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Narayan

8 posts in 621 days


620 days ago

Nice. I’ve seen other versions of this jig which use angle iron for the rails, but I suspect your version yields a superior result.

This is only my third post on this site; hopefully it doesn’t ostracize me. I’m not a militant handtool user.

You could also do this with a handplane or two, which store very nicely :). I only have a 6” jointer (hoping to fix that “problem” soon), so I regularly surface wide boards with a jack and a jointer plane. Takes some skill, yes, but a skill that is very easily learned and pays off for a lifetime.

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GaryK

9537 posts in 886 days


620 days ago

Narayan – I don’t use handtools unless it’s the best tool for the job. Seem too much like work :-)

I only have a 6” jointer. That’s why I came up with this method, so I didn’t have to use my jointer at all.

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

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coolbreeze

105 posts in 633 days


620 days ago

Great idea. I usually rip em all down to 6” so I can joint & plane. Thanks for the tip.

-- Jason, AL

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Bob #2

3050 posts in 919 days


620 days ago

I have a piece of 6/4 cherry that’s a candidate for this jig.
Seems all I do is make jigs.<g>

Thanks Gary

Cheers
Bob

-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner

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brunob

1476 posts in 1067 days


620 days ago

Another winner Gary!

-- Bruce from Central New York

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GaryK

9537 posts in 886 days


620 days ago

This method should show up in ShopNotes sometime soon.

They have already sent me a check for it.

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

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CharlieM1958

7670 posts in 1116 days


620 days ago

Great idea and very clear instructions, Gary. But I have to say, I like the idea of paying a guy $7.50 per 100 bf to surface it for me even better!

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

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jm82435

508 posts in 640 days


620 days ago

Congratulations. This is a good technique and great explanation. Thanks for sharing. We can always say we saw it here first…

-- A thing of beauty is a joy forever...

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GaryK

9537 posts in 886 days


620 days ago

Charlie – I found out later that that’s with a $50 minimum. So you better have a lot of wood.

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

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CharlieM1958

7670 posts in 1116 days


620 days ago

You are right….that would be a lot of wood. If my math is right, though, $50 would get you 667 bf of surfacing. That seems like quite a bargain if you had that much wood.

(Yes, Gary, I’m obsessed with avoiding any work I don’t find fun.)

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

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teenagewoodworker

2482 posts in 666 days


620 days ago

wow great instruction. maybe when in have some time this summer I’ll try buying some rough lumber. thanks for the post.

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Tony

813 posts in 928 days


620 days ago

Nice idea Gary. But as you have a planer, why do you just not use the sledge method to flatten one side of the board, then turn it over and thicken it in the normal way.

This is the method I use for my 15” wide, 8/4 thick and 10’ long oak boards I used to make my table tops. Here is a link http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/FWNPDF/011175058.pdf, [Fine Woodworking #175] but I think you have to be a member

I did use your described method once (without the wheels) to flatten a work bench – it worked a dream.

I only ever buy rough lumber – it is a lot cheaper and you can get to use the full thickness especially useful when making curved parts for a project I.e. Chair legs, seat back rails. that 1/4” can make all the difference!

-- Tony - All things are possible, just some things are more difficult than others! - SKYPE: Heron2005 (http://www.poydatjatuolit.fi)

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DocK16

712 posts in 984 days


618 days ago

Another wiinner GK. I only have a 6 inch jointer (long bed Powermatic) but for boards over 6” it just can’t plane them flat and who can afftord an 8 or 10 inch jointer. (I always wondered why the price for a 8 is almost twice that of a 6 incher. I digress, this is a great idea for getting a truly flat milled wide board and I just might have that bottom cleaning bit hangin around by my Legacy Mill. Thanks for the great post.

-- DocK, WV

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ChicoWoodnut

895 posts in 713 days


618 days ago

Gary,

I couldn’t help but notice. Is that a microfiche reader in your shop?

-- Scott - Chico California http://chicowoodnut.home.comcast.net

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GaryK

9537 posts in 886 days


618 days ago

ChicoWoodnut – Very observant. I had just bought a new lens for it and I took it down from the attic.
I do genealogy also and have a lot of reference material on fiche.

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

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DocK16

712 posts in 984 days


618 days ago

Ah Yes Chico I see it now, Microfiche reader? You must collect 8-track tapes too. I think I’ve been chasing you two around this site all night.

-- DocK, WV

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Dick, & Barb Cain

7043 posts in 1197 days


616 days ago

Thanks for the great pictorial, a very handy setup.

-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

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HallTree

2041 posts in 665 days


616 days ago

Great idea Gary! That idea will allow us, with limited income, to expand our woodworking skills. Thanks.

-- Ron in Osseo, Minnesota

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HokieMojo

1142 posts in 625 days


602 days ago

Gary,
It looks like I am going to need to try this out. Do you by any chance know if the bit you mentioned (1 1/2” bottoming bit) goes by any other names? I’ve tried looking some up online to get an idea for prices, but I’m not finding much. Thanks again for this great post. It will really help me get the most out of the lumber.

Also, I do not have a jointer at all, so I think that in this case, the shorter the board you can use when you start, the less material will be wasted so cutting the lumber to the rough sizes first would probably be a good idea. Do you agree with this?
Thanks

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GaryK

9537 posts in 886 days


602 days ago

HokieMojo – you can frid the bit here:

http://magnate.net/index.cfm?event=showProductGroup&theID=136

They have then all the way up to 2 3/4”

It you use this method you don’t need a jointer. The length of the board doesn’t really matter unless it’s
warped a lot. Then cutting it into smaller pieces will save you some wood.

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

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bayspt

184 posts in 602 days


602 days ago

Very good idea. I was going to make one with just runners but I like the wheeled sled. I will also be borrowing this in the near future.

-- Jimmy, Oklahoma "It's a dog-eat-dog world, and I'm wearing milkbone underwear!"

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RusticElements

166 posts in 623 days


602 days ago

I’ve had trouble with this before and didn’t know what to do about it. Now I do. THANX!!!

-- Michael R. Harvey - Brewster, NY - RusticElementArt.com - SpaceAware.org - AnConn.com

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Sawdust2

1186 posts in 985 days


601 days ago

After I read Tony’s entry I went and checked the link. I remember reading that at the time and thought that it was a lot of bother.

Your jig is so much simpler.

I just happen to have 4 wheels left over from when I took my old saw table apart.

Lee

-- No piece is cut too short. It was meant for a smaller project.

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sIKE

1094 posts in 651 days


601 days ago

I love it, it has been added to the todo list

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

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Justin D.

22 posts in 615 days


601 days ago

Very nice. This may be a solution I can use. Thanks, Justin

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ShipWreck

40 posts in 650 days


601 days ago

Gary…..... ahhh ummm errr …...... Your good! Thanks for taking the time to post those pics.

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SteveKorz

2030 posts in 611 days


601 days ago

Thanks Gary, another great idea!

-- As iron sharpens iron, so one man sharpens another. (Proverbs 27:17) †

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DavidFisher

55 posts in 595 days


594 days ago

very cool. I’ve seen that done other ways before, but not with routing the strips on one side. That seems to be the best melding of the techniques. I’m going to have to give it a try.

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John Gray

1754 posts in 783 days


558 days ago

Thanks Gary I favourited it.

-- Only the Shadow knows....................

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Dick, & Barb Cain

7043 posts in 1197 days


558 days ago

I made a similar set up to flatten out a 30” diameter by 12” thick Pine log for a display at a local museum.

so they could show the growth rings.

-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

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RedShirt013

118 posts in 559 days


558 days ago

Very cool jig Gary. Better than a sled, I can see how that this will take out slight cup in your lumber too with a planer only and very little work otherwise. Great idea

-- Ed

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Damian Penney

1030 posts in 889 days


542 days ago

This post is a keeper, thanks Gary.

-- I am always doing that which I can not do, in order that I may learn how to do it. - Pablo Picasso

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Sac

236 posts in 531 days


529 days ago

Thanks for the ideas here!

-- Jerry, Set in the foothills of the Smokey's

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Beeguy

29 posts in 534 days


528 days ago

This one is great. I love pictures and don’t like reading directions. I have done something smaller but I never thought about the wheels on the sled. What a great idea. Thanks Gary!!

I started using all rough cut lumber for my projects. I am lucky enough to have a sawmill (with kilns) just 8 miles away, and if I preplan a little they will surface it for a very reasonable price. But most times I just run up for a few pieces on the spot and have to do surface it myself. It is still better quality and cheaper than what I can buy elsewhere and it is local lumber.

-- Ron, Kutztown, PA "The reward is in the journey."

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GaryK

9537 posts in 886 days


498 days ago

I’m curious if anyone has tried this yet?

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

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Grumpy

14932 posts in 748 days


498 days ago

Gary, plans Now have a members download this Month on tablesaw jointing. May be of interest to you.
www.plansnow.com

-- Grumpy - "Always look on the bright side of life"- Monty Python

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Sac

236 posts in 531 days


498 days ago

Great post Gary as 0% of my lumber is bought rough.

-- Jerry, Set in the foothills of the Smokey's

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dsb1829

369 posts in 525 days


479 days ago

Interesting take on the router sled. Any issue with the runout in the caster wheels?

-- Doug, woodworking in Alabama

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depictureboy

309 posts in 540 days


478 days ago

Nice gary, It certainly has some advantages over a full sled jig. thanks for sharing…this definatly goes in my shop project folder.

-- If you can't build it, code it. If you can't code it, build it. But always ALWAYS take a picture.

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sIKE

1094 posts in 651 days


387 days ago

Gary,

Did this ever make it in to ShopNotes? If so what issue?

I am thinking about making one this weekend. I have some 6-10 wide 5/4 cherry that needs to be milled down to the proper size and don’t have a Jointer that will handle the wider stock.

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

View GaryK's profile

GaryK

9537 posts in 886 days


387 days ago

sIKE – It hasn’t been in there yet. Maybe they are saving it for something special. :-)

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

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Mike Shea

150 posts in 891 days


344 days ago

THIS IS INDEED A VERRY INOVATIVE IDEA. I MEAN JOINTING WITH THE ROUTER I HAVE HEARD OF BEFORE BUT THE WAY YOU MADE YOUR JIG IS BRILLIANT. JUST AS I WAS THINKING MAN THAT WOULD TAKE A THOUSAND PASSES TO JOINT THE WHOLE BOARD YOU SHOW HOW YOU ONLY JOINTED TWO SLOTS FOR PLANNER SLED BARS TO FIT INTO. BRILLIANT MAN. I WILL DEFINETLY USE THIS TIP SOON

-- i can do all things through christ who strengthens me

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archie18

48 posts in 387 days


324 days ago

Thanks for posting. I have some 3×14 oak I couldn’t figure out how to work with.

-- Robert in middle TN

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sIKE

1094 posts in 651 days


303 days ago

Gary,

I know that your super duper clamp made it in did this one make it in? Headed out to the shop to dig though my back issues. Wish they had an online index like Wood magazine. I never got to it 83 days ago, gonna make another pass at getting this done.

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

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Julian

695 posts in 423 days


303 days ago

Gary, I just made one of these jigs last week and it works perfect! Thanks for the idea. I was wondering how I was going to joint my wide stock of elm which should be ready in a few months.

-- Julian, Park Forest, IL

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GaryK

9537 posts in 886 days


281 days ago

Julian – Glad it’s working for you.

sIKE – They paid for it but haven’t printed it yet.

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

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CAMERONGAGNON.com

129 posts in 306 days


281 days ago

Thanks for taking the time to explain this so well, and with pics. I love learning things like this before bed. I will fall asleep thinking about this and wake up with a better understanding of other things too. You are gifted.

-- "Safe woodworking isn't just about avoiding injury, it is also about avoiding extinction." CKG

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laflaone

57 posts in 578 days


280 days ago

Gary, Good job! I recently finished a workbench and made a router flattening jig similar to yours. I have attached some photos to show what I did. One variation that I did was take an old shopvac floor attachment and fix it to the sled, then added some scrap strips around the sled to add to the vacuming effectiveness. I use a Clear Vue Mini cyclone and a shop vac. Everything worked great.

Photobucket
Photobucket

Photobucket

-- "non illegitimis carborundum"

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Karson

25806 posts in 1298 days


280 days ago

Gary I missed this when it was first posted. I done something like yours to flatten the entire board / Workbench. But I hadn’t thought about the two grooves and then running it through the planer. That is a great tip.

-- What happens in the workshop stays in the workshop. No wait that doesn't sound right. Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

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GaryK

9537 posts in 886 days


250 days ago

laflaone – That’s the method I used to flatten my workbench also.

In fact if you look at the picture of my workbench you can see the jig leaning up against the wall.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/1773

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

View Gary's profile (online now)

Gary

597 posts in 330 days


250 days ago

The value of the information gained on this site is beyond anyone’s imagination. Thanks for the info Gary. Some day we’ll have to meet. Can’t be too far away. How far are you from Texarkana?
gary

-- Gary, DeKalb Texas

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GaryK

9537 posts in 886 days


250 days ago

Gary – It looks like you are about 100 miles away. You are welcome to stop by any time. Just send me a PM.

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

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Chris

300 posts in 255 days


250 days ago

This is a great tip. This looks like it should be a heck of a lot easier and more reliable than the wedging the rough luimber on a sled. Thanks a bunch!

-- Chris

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TopamaxSurvivor

3052 posts in 573 days


250 days ago

Thanks Gary, I put it on watch so i don’t forget it ;-)

-- Debt is nothing more than the 21st Century's form of slavery.

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coloradoclimber

447 posts in 965 days


142 days ago

An excellent jig Gary. When I first saw it I thought it was going to be another route the whole surface and try to get it perfect but this looks much better. Focus on getting just what is required flat and parallel, two strips, and then let the planer do it’s job. Thanks for the idea, I’ve tucked this one away.

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DavidFisher

55 posts in 595 days


142 days ago

Nice. I saved this thread for later. Someday I’ll build one for myself.

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HarleySoftailDeuce

154 posts in 317 days


116 days ago

Thanks so much for this build! It will certainly help me in my wood working.

-- Paul, Bristol,Rhode Island

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adroga

2 posts in 15 days


15 days ago

This is a very creative jig to use in the shop.

I am just starting out myself and couldnt find surfaced lumber near me… just wondering when building this how do we guarantee that the material used are straight? This may sound stupid but how do we guarantee the plywood and the guides are straight to begin with?

Thanks!

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GaryK

9537 posts in 886 days


15 days ago

adroga – Well, good quality (read not Chinese) plywood is about the flattest thing you can buy. It basically comes down to what you lay them on.

The two strips going down the length were cut from the long edges of the sheet of plywood. You can’t get a much straighter edge than a factory edge from a piece of plywood. The I fastened them with that factory edge to the sheet. This will get them pretty flat.

I use the top of my workbench to lay the fixture on, which I machined to be flat.

If you don’t have a flat workbench then you will have lay your fixture on whatever you have. Then you will have to shim your fixture flat. A nice 4 or 6 foot level will help you with this.

Flat is what you are looking for not straight.

It’s basically up to you to make sure that it’s flat.

BTW this was my post number 9500.

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

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adroga

2 posts in 15 days


15 days ago

Thanks for the reply, just what I needed to know. Everyone is really friendly and helpful here.

And congrats on #9500… : )

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8iowa

592 posts in 659 days


15 days ago

It’s alwaus interesting to see the many methods to accomplish a task in woodworking.

I cut rough sawn boards slightly longer than my project dimensions, then clamp the board on my workbench. With winding sticks and hand planes I then knock off high spots and remove twist. I don’t need to plane the whole surface before running the board thru the planer.

I guess I’m just old fashioned.

-- "Heaven is North of the Bridge"

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