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| Forum topic by Cato | posted 999 days ago | 915 views | 0 times favorited | 7 replies | ![]() |
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999 days ago |
I milled some 5/4 ash yesterday for a workbench top. I went to jointer for face plane and edge jointing, and then to table saw to trim opposing edge, and then to planer for dimensioning. I still have a final finishing pass on the planer to bring the boards as close as I can to uniform thickness, but when I laid the boards out side by side I did not have a completely flush edge joint. Do I go back to the table saw or the jointer to improve the edge fit?? Several of the boards did have some curve to the edges that I flattened on the jointer. I may not have gotten them completely flattened. |
7 replies so far
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#1 posted 999 days ago |
first and foremost – congrats on starting on this project :) if your 1st edge was completely straight, than any treatment you’d give the opposite edge would follow the same irregularities. I would start by making sure 1 edge is perfectly straight. if not – joint it straight. the opposite edge could also have been affected by misaligned TS, or a blade that deflected, or just cant produce a glue line edge. depending on the thickness of material – you could try to use the planer to clean it out and parallel. or a hand plane :) -- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route. |
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#2 posted 999 days ago |
Assuming you’ve followed PurpLev’s post, how long between when you edge joined/ripped w/table saw and the time you laid them out to check? Overnight? Wood is constantly moving/adjusting to the changing temp/humidity of its surroundings. -- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane-- |
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#3 posted 999 days ago |
Sometimes when ripping an edge parallel it may be necessary to run a light clean up pass on the jointer depending on the blade used for ripping. Otherwise I agree with Purplev and rance in their posts. -- I don't make mistakes, I have great learning lessons, Greg |
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#4 posted 999 days ago |
Purp, yes I was thinking another pass on the jointer first, and then again a light trim as in kerf thickness on opposing side. Since I did not have the problem on the base when I milled some #2 fir, I think the saw alignment may be okay. Rance- jointed and ripped yesterday and then laid out to check fit. Greg- used a full kerf Freud rip blade that produces a nice edge. thanks guys for the responses. See what happens this evening. |
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#5 posted 999 days ago |
Unless the joint is way off (a lot of space between the boards) you should be able to use the jointer to fix it. Even with a lot of space you could use the jointer, but it just takes longer than to use the TS to get close then the jointer to finish it. I think part of the trick is to know what board is off. I like to take each board I am jointing and lay it on the table saw table or other flat surface on its edge to see which board is off and by how much. -- Wayne - Plymouth MN |
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#6 posted 999 days ago |
Wayne- yeah I am liking the idea of using the jointer for its ability to fix these issues. Okay, so I fit all the boards this evening referencing off a flat face. I marked the good fit edges and the ones that need a pass on the jointer. Most boards fit pretty well, but there were a couple that definitely need another pass on the jointer, and a couple that were close but could use a light pass as well. This is more about honing my skills in regards to jointer, planer, and producing nice seamless fits, rather than obsessing on what will be a work table top for glue ups and general shop carnage. I will post a few pics of my progress. Had a couple of beers so rule is no power tool work, so I just goofed around checking out my work and boo boo’s from yesterday. Bob |
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#7 posted 993 days ago |
I always make a slight finish pass on the jointer after ripping just for a perfect glue edge joint. -- rob, ont,canada |
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