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How to sand end grain on raised panels

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Forum topic by Mainiac Matt posted 01-12-2017 03:24 AM 1042 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Mainiac Matt

6792 posts in 1992 days


01-12-2017 03:24 AM

I just finished routing my first ever raised panels with an Ogee profile.

Now I’m wondering how to sand the end grain on the Ogee section.

I’m afraid that if I hand sand across the grain, it will still scratch, even though it’s end grain.

Any recommendations?

(Note: the long edges are actually straight, but the camera angle makes them appear curved.)

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!


10 replies so far

View bruc101's profile

bruc101

1170 posts in 3205 days


#1 posted 01-12-2017 03:40 AM

Different grit sponge sanding blocks.

-- Bruce Free Plans http://plans.sawmillvalley.org

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

939 posts in 1461 days


#2 posted 01-12-2017 03:55 AM

Why do you want to sand it.The key is to make that profile cut without the need for sanding.
Only after your seal coat then only a light sand with the sponge to knock down the raised grain.
Looks like Bulbinga yikes.
Aj

-- Aj

View Kirk650's profile

Kirk650

454 posts in 412 days


#3 posted 01-12-2017 04:01 AM

It’s endgrain, so I just sand it crossgrain. By the time I get to 400 or so, scratches aren’t noticeable. Check for scratches by wiping it with Mineral Spririts.

View RichTaylor's profile (online now)

RichTaylor

948 posts in 252 days


#4 posted 01-12-2017 05:25 AM

My wife is the master finisher on our interior doors. All she does to the panels is to make sure it’s smooth on the end grain. She works it vertically (along the grain) with the end of a Preppin Weapon block.

-- No matter how much you push the envelope, it'll still be stationery.

View Roger's profile

Roger

20754 posts in 2467 days


#5 posted 01-22-2017 12:56 PM

I’ve used pieces of swimming pool noodles for sanding different contours

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Keep your dust collector fed. Kentuk55@yahoo.com

View Matt Hegedus's profile

Matt Hegedus

141 posts in 456 days


#6 posted 01-22-2017 01:16 PM

Take your time and go with the grain. I would use a sanding block that is wood, then rubber sole, then sandpaper stuck to that.

-- From Pittsburgh, PA

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

4278 posts in 2014 days


#7 posted 01-22-2017 02:02 PM

I make a sanding block by laminating a piece of 6mm craft foam to the bottom. The block is sized to accommodate a 1/4 sheet of sandpaper. It will conform to many different types of curved profiles.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View Bernie's profile

Bernie

422 posts in 2500 days


#8 posted 01-22-2017 02:47 PM

When sanding end grain, I always sand too a higher level grit, say 320. My usual sanding is 100, 120, 150, and 180. With end grain I continue with 220 and 320. It really closes the end grain so it will not soak in as much stain or finish…

-- Bernie: It never gets hot or cold in New Hampshire, just seasonal!

View splintergroup's profile

splintergroup

1238 posts in 885 days


#9 posted 01-22-2017 03:29 PM

Ugh! Sanding end grain, especially if it is contoured, is a chore I try to avoid.

Unsanded endgrain is visible if a transparent finish is used, you can’t hide it, then again will anyone but you notice it or really care?

The foam backer techniques mentioned are excellent, but if I have a lot of linear feet of grain to sand, I’ll make a dedicated sanding block.

On a test piece, I’ll coat the profile with a heavy coat of paste wax, then form a block with automotive body “Bondo”, basically making a negative casting of the profile.
This then can be used as a sanding block with a suitable thin/flexy layer of sandpaper that easily conforms to the profile (or you can spray glue a piece to the block and clamp it to the profile while it dries.

View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

6792 posts in 1992 days


#10 posted 01-23-2017 04:18 PM

Thanks for all the replies…

I made a home depot run for foam sanding blocks … those suckers aint cheap.
I also ordered a Preppin Weapon off Amazon… very nice sanding block, but pretty darn pricey at $20
I also used the 5/8” rad contour sander on my multi-tool.

This was a lot of work and a PITA, but the results were pretty good… Here’s one of the panels with a quick spray of Seal Coat on it…

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

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