riving knife on grizzly 1023, can't use thin kerf blades

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by tworst posted 08-28-2010 05:42 AM 7099 views 1 time favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View tworst's profile


23 posts in 3076 days

08-28-2010 05:42 AM

Topic tags/keywords: g1023 thin kerf tablesaw

I was just about ready to order a grizzly 1023 table saw and was reading through the manual one last time. In the section for saw blades, it states that the saw kerf must be 1/8”. This appears to be required to be able to work with the riving knife/splitter correctly. I use mainly thin kerf blades from frued and the kerf is 0.98” which means, if I am understanding this correctly, that I can’t use them in the Grizzly 1023. I find this hard to believe. It would seem that this requirement would eliminate to many people who use thin kerf blades from considering the 1023 table saw. Does any one know if there is some way to use thin kerf blades on a g1023? I don’t know if other table saw manufacturers have this same limitation. But I would image that there are aftermarket devices that can solve this problem and I would appreciate any recommendations.

5 replies so far

View billythek's profile


18 posts in 3309 days

#1 posted 08-28-2010 06:35 AM

I have a Steel City that has a similar problem. They supply a riving knife for a thin kerf blade but it was still too thick.
I used a 4” grinder with a metal grinding disc to grind the riving knife down to a thickness less than that of the blade. It probably took 10 min. but now it works fine.
If you like the saw, don’t let this stop your purchase.
Since all the knife does is too keep the wood from binding on the outfeed side you can use the same knife for both thin kerf and 1/8 blades, I haven’t seen a down side with this approach.

-- Bill

View knotscott's profile


8178 posts in 3614 days

#2 posted 08-28-2010 11:04 AM

A couple of things come to mind, but probably not the solution you were hoping for. For clarification to everyone, the new G1023RL/RLW/RLX, etc., don’t have the same guts as the former G1023S/SL/SLW, etc. The G1023 offers 3hp and 5hp options, which will spin a full kerf blade effortlessly, so there’s less incentive to go with thin kerf blades unless you’re looking strictly for wood savings. Since blades tend to be a consumable, I’d just outfit your new saw with new full kerf blades.

You could always pursue options of finding or making a thinner riving knife too…

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Bob #2's profile

Bob #2

3810 posts in 4260 days

#3 posted 08-28-2010 03:46 PM

Thin kerf blades were originally designed to compensate for under powered tablesaw motors.
Most saws, in the midrange at least ,have beefy enough motors that they don’t need this fix.
If you bought one to save on wood I wish you luck. It’s never worked for me over the years.
Lastly, the thinner blades can produce harmonics (vibrations )under load and make it tougher to cut full hieght materials should the need arise.
Right now, I can’t think of any advanatge that narrowing the blade could give me in my shop.
It’s great for marketing however.

-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner

View woodklutz's profile


221 posts in 3006 days

#4 posted 10-31-2010 09:35 PM

My solution was to sand down the splitter on my bench sander. I first measured the Freund blade thickness, then sanded the splitter less than the blade thickness. Now one splitter can be used for normal and thin kerf.
It took very little time and eliminated the outlay of cash for an after market device. But the splitter does get hot while you are sanding, used 80 grit

-- honing my craft one mistake at a time.

View SCOTSMAN's profile


5849 posts in 3823 days

#5 posted 10-31-2010 09:43 PM

This can be thinned easily on a milling machine designed for this type of work .Perhaps an engineer maybe a hobbiest engineer near you or a technical school should be able to reduce the thickness very precisely for aout ten to twenty bucks or even for free if you are willing to barter a job in wood or take then a few beers.The milling machine works similarly to an overhead router on metal it works quite slowly not as fast as an overhead router .I have one if you were nearer to me I would get it done for you if you have great difficulty and could afford to send it to me I am sure I could get it done for free for you. just the cost of shipping but that would be in my opinion a very last resort as there are millions of good American machinists,have fun. Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics