Critique or advice to make this jig more efficient

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Forum topic by jpc posted 08-25-2010 02:40 PM 1042 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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139 posts in 3379 days

08-25-2010 02:40 PM

I am building a bunch of drawers useing locking rabbit joinery, i built the tenon style jig for the table say from the drawing in a shopnotes magazine all about table saw tips, it did the first few i made just fine, am satisfied with the results, but was hoping to get some feedback or advice on making it as efficient as i can, thanks for looking everyone. HEY I POSTED THE PICS IN MY WORKSHOP PICS, I THOUGHT I ORIGINALLY DID IT RIGHT IN THE FORUM BUT DIDNT, SORRY

6 replies so far

View richgreer's profile


4541 posts in 3273 days

#1 posted 08-25-2010 02:51 PM

Without a picture it is virtually impossible to offer any critique or advice.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View PurpLev's profile


8547 posts in 3847 days

#2 posted 08-25-2010 03:09 PM

+1 to pic, or link so we’ll know what it looks like and how it works

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

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139 posts in 3379 days

#3 posted 08-25-2010 04:08 PM


View NathanAllen's profile


376 posts in 3342 days

#4 posted 08-25-2010 04:21 PM

Looks very functional.

1. Depending on the width of the tennon board you might be able to install a couple of the HF cam clamps, they can speed up position process

2. Support Block for workpiece could be wider to provide less change for the workpiece to rotate if the clamps ease up. Based on the cut in the sacrificial backer it looks like you’re cutting the tennon between the fence and the blade, outside of the fence would be more safe; similar to the manufactured tennon jigs.

3. Not sure what the bottom of the ply board looks like, but possibly could apply UHMV tape to help it slide easier.

View jpc's profile


139 posts in 3379 days

#5 posted 08-25-2010 04:28 PM

NathanAllen, between number 1 and 2 you nailed it, while useing it, i thought it was a pain in the uknow, to open and close my 2 inch c clamps for every touch. your tight about the location of the tenon to the blade and fence, and your right would be safer outside. i cut for 3 drawers making the tongues for locking rabbit joints. the bottom, baltic birch, sanded 220 then some paste wax, did ok could be alot better, hey man thanks. i didnt make the two verticals around the fence super tight, what could i do to make sure there is no side to side woble over time? any ideas

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376 posts in 3342 days

#6 posted 08-25-2010 04:46 PM

The uhmv tape holds up well to shim. Couple other thoughts below

Are there T tracks on the Cman fence? The side that wouldn’t work would be the left, but if there are any on the top or right side you could use a T-bolt, used to do this with fence mounted jigs on my BT3K.

Set screws are probably out unless you have a sacrificial face on your fence (will scape up the aluminum) but nylon ones should work well, just not as durble as steel. Maybe a spaceball or pece of rubber between the set screw and the fence would work; probably over engineering it though

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