Aaaaaarrrrghhhh stain is bleeding...

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Forum topic by dunk posted 08-25-2010 04:59 AM 962 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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14 posts in 2747 days

08-25-2010 04:59 AM

I’m doing a large project, lots of puzzles. I’m using watco danish oil black walnut stain.
I finish sanded did all my prep work, stained the pieces that needed to be stained and set them aside for 6 hours. Went back and wiped them down vigorously with a shop rag. Assembled the puzzles to begin doing the next set of puzzles. Came back in the house from the shop about 2 hours later and crap. The pieces that did not need to be stained as they are to be lighter contrast, had absorbed some stain from the stained pieces.

What do I do to the non-stained pieces that are supposed to be left natural so they do not absorb the stain from the adjoining pieces? Should I be using a different stain?

Thanks for any help!

-- When the only tool you own is a hammer, every problem begins to look like a nail.

7 replies so far

View blackcherry's profile


3337 posts in 3725 days

#1 posted 08-25-2010 05:07 AM

you could just give the neutral piece a seal coat of sand & sealer or shellac…BC

View dunk's profile


14 posts in 2747 days

#2 posted 08-25-2010 05:15 AM

I was afraid you were going to say that. One more step. I’m going to lose my shirt on this one due to labor…Sheesh!

-- When the only tool you own is a hammer, every problem begins to look like a nail.

View Rick  Dennington's profile (online now)

Rick Dennington

5685 posts in 3096 days

#3 posted 08-25-2010 05:31 AM

Greetings dunk,

I know exactly what you mean about the labor…. I just finished an aquarium cabinet for a customer today, and like you, am going to loose my shirt also on labor…...It’s all oak and oak ply for the panels. Took me 3 weeks to do it, cause of my old bad back and sorry knees…..I should of charged the guy more than I did, but he works at my wife’s beauty shop( he’s funny…not funny ha ha), so I gave him a break on the cost…no more.

-- " Don't pet the sweaty things, and don't sweat the petty things."

View dunk's profile


14 posts in 2747 days

#4 posted 08-25-2010 06:06 AM

Do you suppose I could accomplish the same thing by sealing the puzzle pieces with shellac after staining. There are much fewer pieces to seal that way. It is 3/4” birch.

It was nice of you to give him a break…I suppose we live and learn. I just got an e-mail via my website and a lady in NM wants 31 names done in oak. Of course she wants 3/4’ stuff, I’m going to have to get a new saw after all this hardwood stuff. Football team and coaches. I’ll have to do a god job on this as I’m thinking he may tell others. of course I’d do a good job no matter but referrals are good to have. I love being retired, if it gets to be too much I’ll just go on vacation…LOL

-- When the only tool you own is a hammer, every problem begins to look like a nail.

View TheDane's profile


5364 posts in 3565 days

#5 posted 08-25-2010 02:11 PM

How long did you let the Danish oil dry? I have used Watco Danish Oil on many projects, but I always give it 48 hours before I apply a top coat.

A shellac sealer might help, but I learned (don’t ask me how I know this) that if you don’t give it enough drying time, Danish oil will pop through the top coat like little beads of sweat.

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

View chrisstef's profile


17162 posts in 2908 days

#6 posted 08-25-2010 02:50 PM

I agree with TheDane, that stuff take a few days to toally dry, i always see it soaking through the end grain when i use it, i wouldnt let it touch another piece of wood for at least 2-3 days.

-- Its not a crack, its a casting imperfection.

View Gerry's profile


263 posts in 3142 days

#7 posted 08-25-2010 07:46 PM

What Wilson said..( blackcherry) I had a similar issue, and used spray lacquer to mask off the wood I wanted to keep light. I treated the wood to keep light first, and waited for 24 hours before applying the oil finish. Definitely take time for the watco to dry completely between coats. Hope this is of help.

-- -Gerry, Hereford, AZ ” A really good woodworker knows how the hide his / her mistakes.”

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