Card Scraper follow-up

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Forum topic by richgreer posted 08-24-2010 08:55 PM 1044 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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4541 posts in 2495 days

08-24-2010 08:55 PM

Yesterday I started a topic on Card Scrappers and I got some excellent response. Thank you.

When I think of card scrappers I usually think of a simple piece of relatively thin steel that one sharpens and then, by hand, scrapes it over the wood.

Scrappers are also available in a contraption that resembles a hand plane. This holds the scrapper at a pre-determined angle and at a pre-determined depth. I’ve got a little experience with a simple card scrapper. I have never used on that is housed in a hand plane type of contraption.

I’m curious if anyone uses a scrapper in a hand plane type of contraption and, if so, do they see it as significantly advantageous over a simple card scrapper. I realize that heat build-up would be less of a concern, but I am wondering if there is more to this than just dealing with heat build-up.

As always, I really appreciate the excellent response I usually get when I post a query on this board.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

7 replies so far

View docholladay's profile


1287 posts in 2480 days

#1 posted 08-24-2010 09:12 PM


There are tools called scraping planes. They look just like a bench plane, but with the iron positioned almost vertical (actually leaning forward a little. Some of them allow for adjusting the angle that the scraper is positioned. I have even seen a mechanism that replaces the frog on a standard Stanley type plane that converts it into a scraper plane. I haven’t ever used one of these, but I would imagine that it would be quite useful in the final smoothing of a panel or table top. Personally, I do own a Stanley #80 cabinet scraper. This works in much the same way as a scraping plane, but is configured and looks more like a large spokeshave. It can be either pushed or pulled, but I prefer to pull. I also have a wooden device that is nothing more than a holder for a standard card scraper. Both effectively help with the heat problem. Also, the help to prevent the stress and strain on your hands. However, neither is effective when working a curved surface or when you need to get into a tight location like a corner of a cabinet or drawer. I recently had an old hand saw that had endured one too many sharpenings. I cut it up and made a number of different sized and shaped scrapers because, as you know, you never can have too many tools and you sure don’t want to let good steel go to waste. I specifically made some that are narrow for working into tight areas.

-- Hey, woodworking ain't brain surgery. Just do something and keep trying till you get it. Doc

View Div's profile


1653 posts in 2361 days

#2 posted 08-24-2010 09:42 PM

Doc has pretty much said it all. If you can ever get hold of a Stanley #80, what a tool! Once you get the hang of it, this tool will beat the pants off a beltsander! I know, once had a little “competition” with a friend. He had the beltsander, me the #80. Sure, I worked up a little sweat but I was done much quicker and SO much better!

-- Div @ the bottom end of Africa. "A woodworker's sharpest tool should be his mind."

View Dennisgrosen's profile


10850 posts in 2536 days

#3 posted 08-24-2010 10:17 PM

the spookeshave scraper is an exelent tool to remove old lack on surfaces

and if you have speciel knarled knurled twisted grain area on a board
nothing beat a handheld scraperblade to smoothen such an area

and how much fingerpresure and the angle on it all depent on
both tickness of the blade and how agressive burr you have it set with
you have to play around a little before you find the most efective angle and pressure

good luck with the journey :—)

View hObOmOnk's profile


1381 posts in 3548 days

#4 posted 08-24-2010 11:16 PM

Here’s the Veritas equivalent of the Stanley #80: Lee Valley.

Here’s some notes on the Stanley 80:

-- 温故知新

View newplane's profile


159 posts in 3499 days

#5 posted 08-24-2010 11:56 PM

I use a #80, #112, and card scapers to clean up my work. I also don’t freak out over my work either, some people sand down to such a fine grit and then wonder why the finish isn’t working. On most pieces I go over with a combination of the planes mentioned above. Then do a light block sanding with 220 grit. Blow off the project, tac cloth, and then begin the finishing process. I use an oil/varnish mix similar to the Maloof finish and build up coats. Very rarely do I stain wood. The scrapers, #80, and #112 do a wonderful job at final smoothing, the quick 220 sand-block ties it all in. Do i think they help? With out a doubt, I use less sand paper on my projects, by not using the lower grade sandpaper. Have a blessed day friends.

-- Dont just dream it, get up and live it!

View canadianchips's profile


2310 posts in 2418 days

#6 posted 08-25-2010 01:54 AM

I use #12, # 112, #80 and card scraper.
I personally have better luck with 12 & 112.
I choose each one for different tasks.
My #80 gets the “Rough Work”, (I use reclaimed lumber.)
To get my smoothest finish, I like my 112 or 12. They have micro-adjustments on the angle of the scraper blade.
The more I use these scrapers, the better I get, I really like the end result !
This is one area of woodworking that the phrase, “practice,practice,practice” and THATS just tuning the scrapers !

-- "My mission in life - make everyone smile !"

View swirt's profile


2107 posts in 2393 days

#7 posted 08-25-2010 10:25 PM

The Sept issue (pretty sure, doing it from memory) of Popular Woodworking has a great article by David Charlesworth on using and tuning scraper planes. He covers the Stanley 80 as well as the Veritas and Lie Nielsen.

I have an 80, but the blade is almost gone, I need to get a Hock replacement.

-- Galootish log blog,

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