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Forum topic by hydepark posted 309 days ago 234 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites
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hydepark

1 post in 573 days


309 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: shaping cherry router

I’m thinking of making some new interior doors for our club. 1 3/8” x 36” – cherry. Looked at some Freud router kits, about $200. Any suggestions as to methods, problems to avoid or should I even bother. I am an amature but have done some projects that I’m satisfied with.

-- JoeS

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GaryK

8541 posts in 516 days


309 days ago

Hollow core doors would be easy. Solid doors you have to worry about a lot more things.
Warping being the main one. Use the most stable lumber you can find.

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

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deeker

39 posts in 313 days


308 days ago

I would like to try to make a couple of doors, one from red cedar (mt. juniper) and one from blue stain ponderosa pine. The juniper (some call it aromatic cedar) dries straight and very little sweep or warp. The pondersoa is about the same. Solid or veneer? I have the logs-sawmill-vertical bandsaw and enough toys to do it. But….never done it before. Hydepark, please post pics of your progress.

Thanks

Kevin Davis
Ruff Cutts
Salem, UT

-- To those who fight for it, life has a flavor the protected never know. Unknown, on an empty C-ration box. Khe Sahn 1968

View Fuzzy's profile

Fuzzy

5 posts in 516 days


308 days ago

I have the FREUD set, and am about to try making some doors for the basement of my new shop. They will be Cypress, and the stock is all aged & milled up and cut to size .. just need to do the rail/stile joints and make some deeper mortises. I’ll let you know how they turn out .. I should get them done this week or next.

The bits are a bit pricey, but VERY well made & matched.

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rikkor

8362 posts in 403 days


308 days ago

Sounds like a big project. Please blog it if you do it.

-- Maplewood, MN

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roman

474 posts in 422 days


308 days ago

The freud router bits are made for “cabinet doors”, not “passage” doors. As a rule the coped mortise and coped tenon are 3/8” long which IMHO are barely long enough for a cabinet door, let alone a passage door.

I have hung hundreds of passage doors in my life. The only two jobs I did where the supplier of the passage doors were done with 3/8” tenons….......both projects the doors fell apart. Not to mention several people bringing the doors over to be re-built and refinished.

If you are indeed making “passage” doors then you might consider making two doors, 5/8” thick and then glueing the two slabs together…........seen it done and it works quite well. In the event you are making cabinet doors then disregard everything I wrote.

Good Luck

-- http://www.furnituremann.ca/

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gizmodyne

1479 posts in 618 days


307 days ago

Finehomebuilding has a few good articles about building doors. Their door and window book contains some of the hits.

-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne

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