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spoon knife sharpening

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Forum topic by Karda posted 01-03-2017 04:13 AM 483 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Karda

602 posts in 248 days


01-03-2017 04:13 AM

is there a soon knife sharpening for idiots, I flunked the one for dummies, I have watched some videos about it and it seemed simple enough, but when i tried to put an edge on my Mora 164 which came sharp but not carving sharp all I did was dull it and i cannot get much edge back. It looks like by the time I can get the edge I need I won’t have a knife left to carve with. I am at what to do except quit


16 replies so far

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

992 posts in 1492 days


#1 posted 01-03-2017 04:54 AM

I’ve sharpened all of my carving knives on my tormek v gouges are the most frustrating esp the small ones.
I’ve never done a spoon knive or a scorp.
But maybe we can help, but you have to share more with us.
So what does you knife look like and what are you using to sharpen with.
Some tools for woodworking take time to master.
You have to earn that skill!
But don’t give up!
Watching videos will make you better at watching videos.

Aj

-- Aj

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Karda

602 posts in 248 days


#2 posted 01-03-2017 05:45 AM

I hear what you are saying but it is frustrating, I have been using rough stones but not to much, 250 and 320 grit wet dry sandpaper and arkansa stone I believe are softer ones and homemade leather strop with emery compound. I am going to get some high grits as soon as I can. here are some pic they are not great If you need more I’ll see if I can find my tripod, thanks Mike

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ClaudeF

421 posts in 1401 days


#3 posted 01-03-2017 06:23 PM

Robson Valley is one of the experts on sharptening these. I beleive he uses dowels of the appropriate size for the curvature, wrapped in sandpaper. Your 250 and 320 grit paper is great for changeling the bevel, but not good at all for making the blade “carving sharp”. The auto parts store usually carries wet dry paper in grits of 1000, 2000 and maybe finer. Once you get the edge sharp, you can hone it with a dowel. Just rub the stropping compound directly on the dowel and use that to strop the inside of the blade.

Here’s a discussion that mentions the Mora blades: http://www.woodworkforums.com/f10/experiences-mora-hook-knives-185489?highlight=sharp

-- https://www.etsy.com/shop/ClaudesWoodcarving

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Karda

602 posts in 248 days


#4 posted 01-03-2017 06:53 PM

I finally got an edge back with the 320, I think the Arkansas stones are dulling so what grit progression should I use. Did I make a mistake it getting a Mora, is it a bad design

View chrisstef's profile

chrisstef

16585 posts in 2700 days


#5 posted 01-03-2017 06:57 PM

From what ive read their knives are well regarded. For my chisels and plane irons I go all the way up to 2000 grit and then strop. At minimum, id say go up to 1000 grit.

-- Something, something, something.

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Karda

602 posts in 248 days


#6 posted 01-04-2017 04:02 AM

hi, I got some 600 800 and 1000 grthanks Mikeit sandpaper. I am going to start on my small knives first

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

992 posts in 1492 days


#7 posted 01-04-2017 06:18 AM

That’s a tricky one I have not sharpened a curved spoon knife.
But if I was going to I would only work the outside where the bevel is.I would mark the bevel black with a sharpe and try. bring up a burr on the inside.
I would only use a polish compound on a large dowel to remove the small burr.
Most of the wood carvers I have sat with use a high speed cotton buffing wheel to keep their tools sharp.
Sand paper would only be necessary if there was a chip or large nick in the edge.
So go easy with the paper you don’t want to round over the edge or dub it.
That’s a nice looking tool good luck.

Aj

-- Aj

View OSB's profile

OSB

147 posts in 220 days


#8 posted 01-04-2017 06:20 AM

I haven’t seen the sharpening instructions you are using but from what I understand you want to create a burr for the edge, then work it back and fourth which will make it very fine and sharp. The higher grits just polish it and reduce it a bit more.

When you are using the coarse grits under 320, you should be able to feel the burr and it will catch on your fingernail. As you go finer it will become harder to discern where the burr is moving but you should know where you are trying to push it.

I’ve never been too good at sharpening but that is how my personal knife maker describes it and his edges can split hairs which is a lot sharper than just shaving.

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Karda

602 posts in 248 days


#9 posted 01-04-2017 06:44 AM

Hi, I am trying to develop a method, I have read and watch may instructions and they are all different, for now I am trying high grit sand paper and leather hone possibly mounted on a slow motor

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OSB

147 posts in 220 days


#10 posted 01-04-2017 07:03 AM

Your leather hone should only be moving from the center out over the edge, no rotation, just pushing the burr back out after grinding or polishing the bevel side pushes the burr in to the hole.

It is the same principal as a file, you only push it one way, not back and forth. Rotation wouldn’t do anything positive but if it catches on the burr it could carve up the leather, skip that.

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Karda

602 posts in 248 days


#11 posted 01-04-2017 09:27 AM

ok I got the honeing down it is getting the edge the the place where the hone is needed is my problem. i think my problem with sharpening is not enough real fine grits. One question, I used emery on strop, is there a way to get it out so i can use it with out a coumpound or with flexcut gold thanks

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Planeman41

21 posts in 217 days


#12 posted 01-04-2017 04:49 PM

Having made my own set of 62 carving gouges and another set of eight carving knives and have brought all of their edges to being razor sharp, I recommend you use Arkansas round slips as the last stone before stropping. Use light oil like 3-in-1 oil with Arkansas stones. Here is a good source.

https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Arkansas-Slips-and-Files-C105.aspx

-- Always remember that that half the people in this country are below average in intelligence!

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Aj2

992 posts in 1492 days


#13 posted 01-04-2017 11:53 PM

Karla I would be careful that you don’t add a bevel to the inside of your knife.
I’m pretty sure it will affect the way it cuts and it will not be good.
I like carving spoons but use gouges and knives.
The bevel is on the outside if your tool for a reason.

Aj

-- Aj

View Aztecking1's profile

Aztecking1

2 posts in 201 days


#14 posted 01-05-2017 02:10 AM

I turned a piece of wood to a cone shape about 4” long and glued leather to it. I just rub rouge on it and hone both edges of the knife while the knife is in a vise.

Jeff

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Karda

602 posts in 248 days


#15 posted 01-05-2017 04:08 AM



I turned a piece of wood to a cone shape about 4” long and glued leather to it. I just rub rouge on it and hone both edges of the knife while the knife is in a vise. Hi, do you mean bare wood, I made a couple 6” wheels for my grinder, they are made our of some old drawer parts, pine I think will they work to stop. thanks everybody for your help. I got the sandparer I better go use it
Jeff

- Aztecking1


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