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Leg Vise Bushing

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Forum topic by lansinwd posted 12-28-2016 04:21 AM 471 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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lansinwd

19 posts in 1927 days


12-28-2016 04:21 AM

Topic tags/keywords: workbench lpvise

I was reading today that it is a best practice to use a bronze bushing (sleeve bearing) to support the acme screw for a leg vise in the leg of the bench. Does anyone on here do that? If so, does the bushing need to be the full width of the leg? I have been having trouble finding a 1.125” ID sleeve bearing that is 4.5” long.

Thanks,

Will

-- Broken promises don't upset me. I just think, why did they believe me


7 replies so far

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TheFridge

8302 posts in 1323 days


#1 posted 12-28-2016 04:31 AM

I’ve used a bunch of them. They’re actually rather short the ones I have. They’re great if everything lines up right.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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lansinwd

19 posts in 1927 days


#2 posted 12-28-2016 12:50 PM

Thanks for the reply. I am using the LV tail vise screw which is supposed to have a diameter of 1.125”, should I get a slightly larger bushing on do I want one with a 1.125” ID? Also, the ones I have looked at are not flanged so do I just put it in with a friction fit into the leg or use some type of adhesive?

Thanks again.

-- Broken promises don't upset me. I just think, why did they believe me

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benchbuilder

284 posts in 2287 days


#3 posted 12-28-2016 12:51 PM

Yes I have used them, be sure you try them on the screw before installing them as there is a slight difference in ID on the longer sleeves, its only about a few thousands and can be reamed with just sand paper or a 1 1/8” dill bit. I used the 4” sleve on the leg and a 1 1/2” in the chop plus a 1” ground down to 3/4”. I put the 3/4” sleeve on the screw with soder and turned it down about 20 thousands then used bees wax in the remaing hole in the chop so it turns free but not dloopy. So far its working fine, but only been a bit over a year. It was a bit looser in the dry season. I got these sleeves fron master carr, 1.125 ID and 1.375 OD. $20 will take you all the way.

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lansinwd

19 posts in 1927 days


#4 posted 12-29-2016 11:15 PM

Thanks for the input, though I am not sure I quite follow what you are doing with the 3/4” bushing. Also, are you using any adhesive on the bushing in the leg or just driving it into the hole?

-- Broken promises don't upset me. I just think, why did they believe me

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benchbuilder

284 posts in 2287 days


#5 posted 12-30-2016 01:32 AM

Sorry for the delayed reply, yes I used epoxy, just a small amount inside the hole and drive in the bushing. I put the 3/4” wide x 1 1/8”x 1 3/8” bushing on the screw about 1/4” from where the hub/handle goes on so it acts as a screw shoulder for the garter to hold the screw and chop together. I had to use sand paper to smooth and reduce the size of the 3/4” x 1 1/8” x 1 3/8” bushing and bees wax so it would turn smoothley in the chop as it is attached to the screw. Seems to be a good idea so far. I did use a 1 1/2” wide bushing and ground it to 3/4” wide.

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TheFridge

8302 posts in 1323 days


#6 posted 12-30-2016 01:37 AM

Epoxy here as well

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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benchbuilder

284 posts in 2287 days


#7 posted 01-01-2017 09:37 PM

Yes I have to say getting everything to line up, as the hole in the chop and in the leg have to be straight. If one of them is off a couple degrees your going to have a hard to turn screw. If one could make the bushings adjustable up or down and side ways then lock them down it would be great. But best way is to be able to drill chop and leg straight. I need a better drill press and one with a four inch strok.

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