| Forum topic by MosesLakeDennis | posted 1037 days ago | 1374 views | 0 times favorited | 13 replies | ![]() |
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1037 days ago |
Has anyone had luck with using wood bleach to keep white sap wood light in color. I have beatiful Walnut Burl with white sap wood, but it turns brownish, thus loses the contrast. Thank you in advance. Dennis |
13 replies so far
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#1 posted 1035 days ago |
Dennis, You’d have to be very careful in applying it, but I don’t see why it wouldn’t work. Try it with scrap first. The thing is, the contrast may turn out to be TOO much. Is the finish causing the color change? Oil-based products will cause yeallowing, as you know. Try super=blond shellac or water-based poly. Steve -- Steve in KY. 44 years so far with my lovely bride. Think I'll keep her. |
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#2 posted 1019 days ago |
Steve – I used the 2 part bleach solution approach on my Walnut burl (sapwood only) and one application appears to have made the contrast I was looking for. I applied 2 coats on a scrap piece and it is washing out more of the grain. I will continue to use the bleach. Dennis |
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#3 posted 1018 days ago |
I have had some success using bleach on hackberry. Hackberry is naturally a dull gray/off white wood. It’s not an attractive color. It can be made to look more like maple with some bleach. However, I think it would be very hard to control the application to just affect the say wood on walnut. -- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it. |
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#4 posted 1018 days ago |
Dennis, Glad it’s working for you. You seem to be a talented guy with a wide range of interests. Anyone who can live through raising three sons gets my vote. Of course, your WIFE has lived through raising FOUR boys. Stay safe thiss weekend. Steve -- Steve in KY. 44 years so far with my lovely bride. Think I'll keep her. |
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#5 posted 1017 days ago |
Rich – Actually it was quite easy to apply the bleach only on the walnut sap wood. I simply used a very small brush and make sure I don’t have too much bleach on the brush when I first apply, which keeps the liquid from running. Also the walnut, although sanded to 400, was very absorbant and reduced risk of running. I know…......too much information. Be well. Dennis p.s. Fussy – Raising 3 sons (18, 23, 26) was a breeze. Not since they were 11, 8 and 3 have they argued or fought wiith each other. Now I just have to pay for their colleges USC, Univ. of Michigan, Univ. of Texas. |
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#6 posted 1017 days ago |
a smart guy like you would have arranged things so that they All GET FULL BOOGIE scholorships`. With the money you save, you can afford to fly them home Thanksgiving in the G IV SP you always wanted. Good move. Steve -- Steve in KY. 44 years so far with my lovely bride. Think I'll keep her. |
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#7 posted 1017 days ago |
The best is to seal the sapwood rather than bleach. Actually your problem is retaining the color of sapwood rather than bleacking it. I have similar problem on my spiral design which is ongoing but I alredy solved it. I will be using wood glue as first coat sealant. On bleaching the sapwood, I think it is only an added task without meeting the objective… After bleaching the sapwood, it will then absorb the poly or any other liquid and discolor again. Bleach is used mostly for equalizing the wood with other wood, say when you don’t want the original color and will stain it. But not as a sealant. -- Bert |
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#8 posted 1015 days ago |
Bert – are you saying I should rough turn to 10% thickness, apply CA glue or a polyeurathane only to the sap wood and months later re-turn to finish product? There is considerable moisture in the wood and it waffles considerably when drying. The sap wood turning white to brown can begin at the edge of the heart wood so don’t know if sealling the sap wood wood would keep it from turning. Will give it more thought. Maybe try on a small piece that I will be cutting off of the huge burl remaining. I think you are right that the wood will absorb the poly/liquid and will discolor, but it will happen to both the sap and heart wood, so hopefully there will remain some contrast. Maybe not al much as when completed. Thanks for the input! Dennis |
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#9 posted 1015 days ago |
Dennis, -- Bert |
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#10 posted 995 days ago |
Have had extensive experience with wood bleach on hard maple to keep sapwood uniform and minimize appearance of sticker stain. Needs to be applied uniformly with sponge and allowed to dry. minimal sanding ok afterwards to get rid of raised grain. Bleaching penetrates only 1/16” or so so no further machining. Tried on sticker stain in ash flooring. Didn’t seem to work as well as on hard maple. Not sure what will happen on walnut sapwood. |
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#11 posted 992 days ago |
Thanks to everyone’s suggestions. I applied 2 coats of Wood Kote bleach (2 liquids mixed together) and it worked wonderfully! Lightened up enough to enhance the contrast between sap and heart wood, but didn’t bleach too much that would have washed away the grain. Have several natural edge vases in process. Dennis |
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#12 posted 992 days ago |
I would be very careful using wood bleach make sure your in a well ventilated area and never mix more than on type of bleach . -- W James Brokenbourgh Custom furniture maker http://artisticwoodstudio.com/ |
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#13 posted 992 days ago |
Jim – thank for the input. I am typically outside at the patio table wearing rubber gloves, a dust mask and with glasses. Not sure what you meant by “never mix more than on type of bleach”. I use a very small brush where I can apply to the unjulating wood rings/jigs and jags. Dennis |
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