Glue one end of a breadboard end

I can’t think of any reason why that wouldn’t work just fine. The pegged hole farthest from the glued end would need to be elongated more than the hole in the middle, but that’s no problem. Maybe I am missing something that someone else will catch, but I’d do it.

-- Galootish log blog, http://www.timberframe-tools.com

If the 19” is the width of the glued up boards, then I think you should be able to do that. However, keep in mind that some woods—and cuts of woods—move more than others, so I guess the definitive answer would depend on the species you are intending to use.

-- "You can lead a politician to water, but you can't make him think." Kinky Friedman

19” is the width of the whole top. It’s three glued up boards in total at about 6.5” each and it’s made out of Cherry.

-- Wherever you go, there you are.

This should be a workable solution with dry cherry at the start. I have always followed the old fart’s rule that you always put the same finish on the bottom of a piece as the top, and the movement is limited even more !

-- some men see things that are and wonder why, I dream of things that never were and ask why not .... rfk

This would work fine from everything that I’ve read, but I’m curious why you wouldn’t want the flush edge to be the displayed edge? If it expands a couple sixteenths or contracts, the edge by the wall would never show it to the casual passerby, but if the displayed edge is the one doing all the movement, you’d see it…

-- Brian

There is no reason that you can’t do this. Just remember that if someday you want change the arrangement of this table and the backside becomes the frontside, the movement will be double what it would be if you had glued it in the center.

-- Bondo Gaposis