Routing dadoes for t track

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Forum topic by Vrtigo1 posted 08-16-2010 03:04 PM 2964 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Vrtigo1's profile


434 posts in 2411 days

08-16-2010 03:04 PM

Any tricks here? I picked up some Kreg t-track over the weekend to use for positioning my router table fence and used a straight bit along with straightedges to rout the dado for it. Since the router makes a dado with a round end, I tried using a chisel to square up the edges with less than stellar results. The end of the dado isn’t perfectly flat, nor perfectly square to the sides so the t track doesn’t fit all the way flush against it. Luckily, the fence covers this so you won’t really see it much, but it got me wondering if there was a better way to go about it?

10 replies so far

View richgreer's profile


4541 posts in 2494 days

#1 posted 08-16-2010 03:30 PM

A sharp, high quality, bit and multiple passes. I never take off more than an 1/8” in any pass.

Personally, I leave the round ends. They don’t bother me.

I also put some gorilla glue under the track before I screw it down. It’s probably not necessary but I do it anyway. Obviously, my track is permanently attached.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View Vrtigo1's profile


434 posts in 2411 days

#2 posted 08-16-2010 05:38 PM

Thanks Rich. I did the first one in 1/8” passes, but got myself in a hurry for the second one. I figured since I’d already got the bit at the absolute correct depth that I’d route the second dado at the final depth since it’s only 3/8” deep. Probably would’ve been better to break it up, but I just went extra slow and it turned out fine.

Both of the dadoes look great, it’s just the rounded ends that I slightly butchered that are bugging me. In hindsight, I kind of wish that I’d just left them rounded.

View ajosephg's profile


1878 posts in 2980 days

#3 posted 08-16-2010 07:41 PM

Why not just rout it through the edge of the table? That’s how mine are.

-- Joe

View Vrtigo1's profile


434 posts in 2411 days

#4 posted 08-16-2010 08:09 PM

I’d rather not have the tracks protrude past the fence, though I did think about that. I did route the grooves through the back of the table.

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

2390 posts in 2341 days

#5 posted 08-17-2010 01:08 AM

a belt sander or bench grinder will round off the “T” track to fit also.

-- "You may have your PHD but I have my GED and my DD 214"

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

8094 posts in 2848 days

#6 posted 08-17-2010 01:22 AM

You could always rout it through and insert a plug :-)

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View reggiek's profile


2240 posts in 2689 days

#7 posted 08-17-2010 01:31 AM

If using chisels, the best bet would have been to get and use some mortise chisels…they are built for this kind of work…there is even an angled one for corner cuts.

I like Jim’s idea of rounding the track too….it would make the track and dado mate each other…and give it a finished look.

You could use a spiral trim, flush trim or even a laminate trim bit. Use a laminate trim router, a dremel with a plunge base or just a plunge router – Clamp a block on top of the table along the square line, for the bits bearing to run along, and let the cutter square up the slot.

I have a set of diamond straight burs with my proxon that I use to square of mortises – the small bits allow me to take the cut slow and follow a square off line.

I have used all of these methods at one time or another…and I am sure there are many more others that can be tried.

-- Woodworking.....My small slice of heaven!

View Vrtigo1's profile


434 posts in 2411 days

#8 posted 08-17-2010 04:49 AM

Thanks reggie, I think I’ll try your suggestion with a dremel and plunge base next time. Seems pretty easy and sounds like it’ll do exactly what I needed.

View Steve Peterson's profile

Steve Peterson

317 posts in 2501 days

#9 posted 08-17-2010 05:50 PM

I left mine round so there is room to slide a hex bolt into the track.

-- Steve

View surfin2's profile


51276 posts in 2555 days

#10 posted 08-18-2010 02:26 AM

I used my dremel with accouple bits to square it up & my Roto Zip to cut the T-Track, they both did an awesome job…

-- Rick

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