Attach chair back

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Forum topic by willhime posted 12-23-2016 05:18 PM 541 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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122 posts in 1717 days

12-23-2016 05:18 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question tip trick cedar joining finishing

I’ve been trying to think of a non-grotesque way to attach the chair back to my shop version of the 2016 Eisteffod chair. I have slanted slots cut out (blue tape in the slots) to hold the back at a 7 degree slant and my idea was to run long lags screws from the rear bottom stretcher up into the back’s base. I’m concerned though that after time, they’ll begin to fail with repeated sits and the way people gently push into it when they first sit down and do that initial slam in a chair’s back. Are there any ideas or methods I’m overlooking on how to do this. I included the last picture of the original design.


-- Burn your fire for no witness

5 replies so far

View Monte Pittman's profile

Monte Pittman

29975 posts in 2516 days

#1 posted 12-23-2016 05:31 PM

For me, I do mostly dowels. That’s what I would put in.

-- Nature created it, I just assemble it.

View cracknpop's profile


333 posts in 2527 days

#2 posted 12-23-2016 05:40 PM

I’m not familiar with that design of a chair but had these options come to mind;

-Could you cut a rabbit/groove in the cross member behind the seat that the back could rest in? That would give it more support for those who “slam in a chair’s back”.

-Would threaded inserts be a better option than lag bolts?

If all other options fail to withstand the ‘plop and slammers’, perhaps running a few screws through the back just enough to poke through will deter them from doing it again????? (Just kidding, of course!)
Good luck and be sure to come back and tell us how you fixed it and how it worked out.

-- Rick - I know I am not perfect, but I will keep pressing on toward the goal of becoming all I am called to be.

View JBrow's profile


1366 posts in 1098 days

#3 posted 12-23-2016 10:08 PM


Perhaps my idea falls into the grotesque category but if not; either in addtion to or instead of the groove or rabbet in the back seat rail to accept a tongue milled in the chair back, as suggested by cracknpop, would be a structural applique to reinforce the bottom back/rear chair connection.

The applique could be a piece of 3/4” stock that is perhaps 2/3 the width of the back and long enough to set flush with the bottom dge of the lower rear seat rail and overlap the backside of the back by 3” or 4”. The bottom inside face of the applique could be cut at the 7 degree bevel which would allow the applique to rest solidly against the lower seat rail and the chair back. The upper end of the applique could be milled to mirror the design at the top front of the chair back. The applique would then be glued to the rear seat rail and to the back. I like dowel reinforced joints, so I would also add some dowels, installed at a slight angle, to reinforce the seat rail and the back to the applique glued joints.

View Loren's profile


10477 posts in 3826 days

#4 posted 12-23-2016 10:23 PM

Extend the armrests back and attach a round
1/2” metal bar behind the back rest.

how Macintosh approached the high-back chair:

View Loren's profile


10477 posts in 3826 days

#5 posted 12-23-2016 10:32 PM

see? the back joint is a fulcrum and if the back is
let into a stretcher low in the back legs, there’s
a lot more leverage protecting the back from
pulling off.

If you cannot modify the design, well, you’ve anticipated
its weak spot.

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