LumberJocks

The Best Bandsaw Advice EVER!

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by Blake posted 01-15-2008 09:48 PM 27751 views 63 times favorited 66 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Blake's profile

Blake

3439 posts in 2626 days


01-15-2008 09:48 PM

Topic tags/keywords: bandsaw question tip resource

The original title of this topic was “Venting about my Bandsaw… I NEED HELP!” but I decided to change the title because there is so much good information here that it should be a reference for anybody with bandsaw problems. If you read the thread, you will find a goldmine of tips for fixing and tuning a bandsaw and how I got mine working again.

Also, don’t miss my homemade Blade Tension Quick Release Project and Blog:

Click for details

Here is my original post:

VENTING ABOUT MY BANDSAW… I NEED HELP!

sorry, but I AM TICKED OFF AT MY BANDSAW!!! ...ok, just had to get that out.

The sad old fella: (we have a love/hate relationship right now)

I have tried everything. I have read every book on “tuning” a bandsaw. I don’t need to be told to make sure the wheels are in the same plane, use a dollar bill between the blade and blocks, etc. I have done all of that. AAAAGGGGGG!!! ...ok, still venting.

The Bandsaw: Delta 14” with riser block. Actually has “Delta, Milwaukee, Rockwell” on the tag, which gives you an idea of how old it is.

I am just trying to “resaw” my lumber, like I have always done. It has never been perfect, I have always suspected that the saw was not perfectly true. I am pretty sure my problem is a wheel that is not true. But they are soooooooo expensive. Almost not worth the repair.

The problem(s): It rocks when it turns on. I don’t mean vibration, I mean ROCKING. I have gotten used to that. But the main problem is that it won’t cut straight. I am getting an ”S” curve cut through the wood. The blade enters and exits the wood in a different place.

It’s just soft 1×6 Philippine Mahogany. I’m not asking that much of it. I don’t force it… I go really slow.

I started using my resaw fence… then my “single point” attachment (both home made but very effective and even adjustable). But you can’t account for “Blade Drift” if the blade is DRIFTING IN TWO DIRECTIONS AT THE SAME TIME!!! ...still venting… That’s right, it’s actually twisting in within the board.

It drifts left in the upper part of the cut and right in the lower part. WHAT!? Is that even physically possible?! What universe is this bandsaw from?!!

The further I cut into the wood the worse the “S” curve gets exaggerated. End result: eventually blade just burns the wood, won’t cut, and pisses me off. (sorry)

I was having problems several months ago and I actually spent $150 on the Carter bearing guides thinking that might help. It sort-of did for a while but it seems to have gotten worse lately.

By the way, the blade is 3/4”. I have tried tracking it in different places on the wheel, further forward or back. The only other thing that I am wondering about is the possibility of blade tension being wrong?? I donno. I have tried all different tensions also. ‘They’ recommend setting the spring a little higher than the scale size (past the suggested 3/4” mark).

The blade itself is actually a pretty good quality blade. It is made for resawing.

I wonder if my saw is just twisted like a hunchback? Maybe it’s just got a little bit of scoliosis like me. It seems like such a good saw but I just can’t get it do cut.

I’m mad and sad because I really like this old bandsaw (and can’t afford another anyway). Please help me, LumberJocks! (Any advice or new bandsaws you can give me are appreciated.)

-- Happy woodworking! http://www.openarmsphotography.com


66 replies so far

View Blake's profile

Blake

3439 posts in 2626 days


#1 posted 01-15-2008 09:55 PM

The really ironic thing is that if my bandsaw was working, I could probably build “Not Just Any Box,” enter the competition, and have a shot at winning a new Steel City bandsaw (which I could really use right now.)

-- Happy woodworking! http://www.openarmsphotography.com

View GaryK's profile

GaryK

10262 posts in 2740 days


#2 posted 01-15-2008 10:01 PM

The only thing I can think of is blade tensioning. I would think that if something were screwed up as far as being true or aligned that it would be consistant.

The only dynamic thing is the blade cut itself. If the tension were too light the blade could twist and cut both ways like you describe.

Try slowing down your cut, use soft wood, and then re-tension the blade in that order and see if you can narrow it down.

-- Gary - Never pass up the opportunity to make a mistake look like you planned it that way - Tyler, TX

View Douglas Bordner's profile

Douglas Bordner

3971 posts in 2816 days


#3 posted 01-15-2008 10:05 PM

I’m pretty sure that an older hand than myself will have the answer, but just to give you a pat <pat>, I thought I’d give it a go. I would replace the belt with a link belt. The bowing in the cut seems likely to be a tension issue. Can you crank it up anymore? What sort of resaw blade are you using? I’ve heard the Timber Wolf line is better than some others at tracking without going nuts on the blade tension issue.

There may also be some things you can do to balance the wheels. If I recall from reading Lonnie Bird’s book you can do some things to check and correct balance. Another thought, are the tires original issue?

Okay where’s Dick Cain, Karson and the old hands with the real answer.

Again, my most sincere <pat>. Most of my machines and I maintain a love-hate relationship.

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

View grumpa's profile

grumpa

35 posts in 2574 days


#4 posted 01-15-2008 10:05 PM

Blake; I’m not trying to be a( smarter than u) kind of guy but have you ever changed the tires. I have a bandsaw that looks just like yours and I started it one day before I put the sides back on and the tires literily raised off the wheel. I changed tires. the blades ride much better with new tires.

-- grumpa,Michigan

View Douglas Bordner's profile

Douglas Bordner

3971 posts in 2816 days


#5 posted 01-15-2008 10:10 PM

Looking at the picture of your fence, it looks like it’s pretty tall. How much above the workpiece is the top guides for the cut you’re trying to make?

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

View Blake's profile

Blake

3439 posts in 2626 days


#6 posted 01-15-2008 10:19 PM

Wow, already some good things I hadn’t thought of yet! (In only ten minutes… I love this place.) Please keep it coming!!! Thanks.

-- Happy woodworking! http://www.openarmsphotography.com

View MsDebbieP's profile

MsDebbieP

18615 posts in 2913 days


#7 posted 01-15-2008 10:50 PM

who lives nearby? Go use their bandsaw; build that box; win the contest; and get that new bandsaw into your shop! :)
I can’t help you with any of the technical stuff, but I’m thinkin’ about you.

-- ~ Debbie, Canada (https://www.facebook.com/DebbiePribeleENJOConsultant)

View rikkor's profile

rikkor

11295 posts in 2626 days


#8 posted 01-15-2008 11:04 PM

Carter makes a tire out of some kind of poly stuff that is supposed to be really good. I also bought their bearing kit and it really helped for resawing.

View Tony Z's profile

Tony Z

205 posts in 2542 days


#9 posted 01-15-2008 11:08 PM

I have a brand new 9” ryobi band saw, nothing special, just for cutting small things, and I’ve tuned this thing 10 times and it does the same thing you’re describing. I can’t cut a straight line in 1/4” pine with the upper guides right on top of the stock. If I try to cut anything thicker, forget it. The blade ends up snaking its way through the board and stops! I’m thinking the blade itself is screwy. I hear the weld every time it goes by. Any thoughts?????

-- Tony, Ohio

View GaryK's profile

GaryK

10262 posts in 2740 days


#10 posted 01-15-2008 11:14 PM

Tony – Throw it away like I did mine and get a good 14”

-- Gary - Never pass up the opportunity to make a mistake look like you planned it that way - Tyler, TX

View Damian Penney's profile

Damian Penney

1140 posts in 2743 days


#11 posted 01-15-2008 11:35 PM

Definitely the tension…. (maybe)

On preview, like grumpa said the tires could be messing it up for you by changing the tension of the blade as they spin due to uneven wear…

Can you see any vibration in the wheels when the saw is running?

-- I am always doing that which I can not do, in order that I may learn how to do it. - Pablo Picasso

View Blake's profile

Blake

3439 posts in 2626 days


#12 posted 01-15-2008 11:39 PM

Ok, tension is what I thought. But more or less? I’m not sure if I can get enough tension out of my blade on this saw.

-- Happy woodworking! http://www.openarmsphotography.com

View Damian Penney's profile

Damian Penney

1140 posts in 2743 days


#13 posted 01-15-2008 11:44 PM

More. Gotta stop that blade from stretching/bouncing around.

-- I am always doing that which I can not do, in order that I may learn how to do it. - Pablo Picasso

View Damian Penney's profile

Damian Penney

1140 posts in 2743 days


#14 posted 01-15-2008 11:46 PM

Tony hearing the weld is normal, try a wider blade and up the tension.

-- I am always doing that which I can not do, in order that I may learn how to do it. - Pablo Picasso

View Ethan Sincox's profile

Ethan Sincox

765 posts in 2926 days


#15 posted 01-15-2008 11:47 PM

Blake,

Unfortunately, just because your bandsaw says Rockwell on it doesn’t mean it’s that old. My Delta/Rockwell bandsaw was made in August of 1981 and unfortunately that was not a very good decade for the Rockwell bandsaw. The quality was not nearly as high as bandsaws made in the 60’s and 70’s.

You might want to check out the Old Woodworking Machines. Create a login ID, start doing some reading on any of the forum entries for 14” bandsaws.

Here is a topic I made re: my 15” Rockwell drill press and my 14” Rockwell bandsaw and some of the things I had to go through and fix to remove the major vibrations from mine.

Ethan's Rockwell Bandsaw Forum Entry=

I also have a catalog from a company in the southeast (Georgia?) who specifically makes replacement and upgrade parts for bandsaws. I’ll try to dig that catalog up and get you the contact information. It took them a few weeks to get it to me, but it has a ton of information in it and you can order a replacement part for any part of your bandsaw.

I have yet to do it, but I plan on replacing my two pulleys next and then I’d like to set myself up with some new guide blocks. I found a half destroyed carver’s mallet on eBay a few months ago for real cheap. A big part of the mallet head had split off – I really just wanted it for the lignum vitae so I could cut it up and make guide blocks.

As soon as I started getting ready for that, I found out the guide blocks currently set up were round… great. So in addition to the new pulleys, I’ll probably order a new guide block setup, as well.

Anyway, hope that helps.

-- Ethan, http://thekiltedwoodworker.com

showing 1 through 15 of 66 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase