What will I need to set up a new Table Saw..?

Congrats on the new purchases. I can’t add much on how to set up—I’m not very mechanical.

As to the saw blade – depends of how smooth of a cut you want. More tooth – smoother cut. Most blades that come with the saw are for rough cuts.

As for tools setting up that saw——be sure to have a friend help. That thing gets heavy,

Good luck.

-- You can't get a hug from Facebook.

Not sure what kind of saw that is, but a level and straight edge should be all that you need.

A level to get your table saw level and a straight edge to get the wings flush to the table.

-- Gary - Never pass up the opportunity to make a mistake look like you planned it that way & "We are what we repeatedly do, excellence then is not an act, but a habit" -Aristotle

On the miter saw make sure that you get a blade with a reverse angle. Something like 7 deg back angle. It gives a great cut. about 80 teeth.

The saw blades might be identified as being used for miter saws and radial saws. I’ve got a Freud and its great.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

i can tell you what you don’t need to set up your saw… No hammers, recip saws, chisels… just a straight edge and depending on what kind it is.. some wrenches and the like. Also, a box of donuts, hot coffee, and a bit of patience

-- making sawdust....

Don’t try to out run the destructions. Some wrenches, screw drivers, maybe some Allen wrenches (usually comes with) and a helper to hold and lift and a clean area to work.
God bless and have fun!

-- Gene, a Christian in Virginia

To make sure that the blade is parallel to the miter slots, and the fence is also paralle to both, you’ll need a good combo square at least, and if you wanna go with more expensive options you can.

I just use a combo square, up against a piece of maple milled to fit in the miter slot. I mark a spot on the front of the blade, and move the combo square against it. I check the gap there with feeler gauges. Then I slide my maple block/combo square to the back of the blade, rotate the blade, and check the gap with feeler gauges. I adjust the saw until the feeler gauges at front and back register the same gap.

Similar method for the fence.

Do these things and your saw will make you happy.

Oh, another tip: if you’ve got a nice big block of wood, get it all jointed and planed. When you are sure you’ve got your blade 90 degress to the table (perfect up and down), cut that block. Then set your blade for 45 degrees. When you’ve got it perfect, Cut that block. You’ll basically make a big triangle set up gauge this way.

Congrats
-Matt

-- Matt Gradwohl, Upper Cut Woodworks

Personally I like a thin kerf blade. Less waste, and it doesn’t tax the saw’s horsepower as much. I use a 50 tooth carbide blade with very satisfactory results. Take your time on all the set-up steps so you get square cuts.

If I may quote you: “I am sitting here drooling and staring and my new TS3750 Table Saw ( still in its box..) “

Start with a box cutter. Inside you’ll find directions on how to set it up properly. And yes, the more teeth on the blade means a finer cut.

-- Bob Vila would be so proud of you!