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Delta 36-725 owners - experience w/ warranty or repairs (profession or DIY)?

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Forum topic by AAANDRRREW posted 12-16-2016 01:47 PM 5018 views 0 times favorited 34 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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AAANDRRREW

210 posts in 1010 days


12-16-2016 01:47 PM

Hi guys,
Was curious if anyone owns a Delta 36-725 saw (or the 36-5000) and has had to have warranty work done or repairs (whether it was profressional or DIY). I have the 36-725 and I’m pretty sure I’ll be taking it to a shop because my arbor has some bad runout. After calling the customer service and the shop, it sounds like it’s for sure covered by warranty, but the shop warned me that they have had bad experiences of late. Guy tells me that they have started work, figured what parts they need and Delta has either told them they can’t get parts, or it takes 3 months to get the parts, or worse, it takes 3 months to hear back from Delta that they can’t get parts. This story really makes not give a crap about the warranty because what good is it if the certified shop can’t get the parts needed?

And, if I end up in the situation where I can’t get parts and have to DIY, has anyone removed the arbor/motor assembly themselves and can give any tips on doing so?

Little background, I need to get a little better dial indicator, but I was able to verify it is my arbor for sure (I can’t rule out bearings, but its not the blade) that has the runout. I measured a low of -0.002” and a high of 0.003” and I’m concerned that might be alot of meat to take off using the grinding method, but my cousin is a machinist who works exclusively with grinding operations and says thats no big deal…

Thanks.


34 replies so far

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Lazyman

1504 posts in 1225 days


#1 posted 12-16-2016 03:40 PM

I have not had to have any warranty work done on my saw but did you ask the repair shop whether they have seen a saw with the problem that you are describing? Just wondering if they can tell you what the fix is expected to be. If they can’t tell you I would be reluctant to drop off my saw.

Did you measure the runout using your dial indicator against the arbor flange or against the shaft or some other method? If the runout is in the shaft it probably either needs new bearings which should not require parts from Delta or a new arbor if it is bent. If the problem was measured against the flange you may be able to grind it without taking anything off the saw. Here is a good tutorial for truing an arbor flange that doesn’t require taking anything apart. Personally, I would probably try that before trying to get warranty service.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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AAANDRRREW

210 posts in 1010 days


#2 posted 12-16-2016 03:48 PM

thanks lazyman.
I did ask that exact question, but the gentlemen I was talking to wasn’t the tablesaw tech, he was other delta product tech. The tablesaw guy they have was out on call, he was just describing what the shop has experienced with Delta in general as of late.

I measured it against the arbor flange, not the shaft itself (meant to do so, but once I finally got the reading from my indicator and got it on video I ran out of time). My dial indicator was difficult to use because I borrowed it from work and it didn’t have the tip I would have liked to use. I was also told today that it likely had been abused some at some point, so before doing anything to get a better one of my own (which I have now on order).

I agree with your statement about grinding and I’m confident I could attempt it, I am reluctant to until I know more about the warranty and service situation – I’d hate to grind it, have it not work, then have Delta tell me I voided the warranty. The tablesaw tech is supposed to do some groundwork on parts he thinks he’ll need based on my statement and see if they are in fact available. I’m concenred because Delta does not list this saw anymore on its website, but if you search for it you can find it – worries me they have cancelled it and maybe the parts too?

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hotbyte

989 posts in 2813 days


#3 posted 12-16-2016 03:57 PM

The issue with it not being on website was brought up a few months back. I believe it is a special product for Lowe’s only so Delta doesn’t show it on their website. I saw a few at our local Lowe’s last week so it likely isn’t discontinued.

Also, the arbor related parts could be same or similar to the 36-5xxxx saws…maybe…

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Lazyman

1504 posts in 1225 days


#4 posted 12-16-2016 04:01 PM

That saw is difficult to find on their website because it is only available at Lowes. Not sure how I found it exactly but here is a link:
http://www.deltamachinery.com/products/table-saws/item/36-725-2
You can find a link there to the parts list if you need one. I did a quick search on the shaft assembly on their parts website just to see and they appear to have them:
http://www.deltamachineryparts.com/shop/shaft-assembly/

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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AAANDRRREW

210 posts in 1010 days


#5 posted 12-16-2016 04:15 PM

Now that is just weird – because when I bought it in April 2015, it was on their site, then the 5000 showed up and now the 725 is gone. I know it was there, because I followed it to order the ZC plate.

Interesting you found the shaft part number – I found a part diagram off this forum and looked at it, and I think the arbor was part #170 and it wasn’t listed (it was a PDF) and the only part number listed near the arbor was the entire arbor/motor unit.

Maybe I’ll get lucky and they’ll replace it with the 5000 unit motor, which is a little bigger :)

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hotbyte

989 posts in 2813 days


#6 posted 12-16-2016 04:18 PM



Maybe I ll get lucky and they ll replace it with the 5000 unit motor, which is a little bigger :)

- AAANDRRREW


Let me know if they do…I’ll go bang up my arbor :)

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AAANDRRREW

210 posts in 1010 days


#7 posted 12-16-2016 04:43 PM

I told my wife that I’m gonna sell this one and go get that grizzley that is priced comparably. she didn’t shoot me, so maybe it’s possible. :) She asked why I got this one and I told her that at the time (we were just dating and I fresh off a costly divorce) that I wasn’t sure how far I’d go with woodworking and it seemed like a good higher end consumer grade saw that wasn’t huge and it was mobile. I also explained to her that even if I got a cheaper one, I’d expect it to be more true than what I currently have.

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Lazyman

1504 posts in 1225 days


#8 posted 12-16-2016 05:06 PM

Shaft assembly is #171, #170 is the belt.

When I bought mine I made a similar compromise as you and though I wish I had bought a nicer saw, I cannot find much wrong with mine to justify getting rid of it and getting a new one but if I was having the problems with it that you are, I would probably be in the same frame of mind but looking for a MUCH nicer saw. My advice is to take your time and spend a little more than you want so you aren’t in the same boat a few years from now.

Good Luck and if you do try to grind the arbor yourself, report back on how it went, though I guess if you decide to get a new saw, you might as well let Delta fix it under warranty and it won’t matter how long it takes if you have a new saw already in its place.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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AAANDRRREW

210 posts in 1010 days


#9 posted 12-16-2016 05:11 PM

agreed. Well, I’m actually really happy with my saw, except for this – and i wish it had 4 casters so it wasn’t like shopping cart with the turning radius of the titanic….if not for this issue, I’d be telling ppl go buy it, its pretty good. My issue is space – I need something that has wheels or can sit on a wheeled base.

even with the wobble, it’s actually done decent work, just is a major pita to align the blade. Nothing makes me more made when you carefully mark your work and are ready to go and you’re cut is crooked.

I’ll be sure to report back.

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nkawtg

263 posts in 1089 days


#10 posted 12-16-2016 05:18 PM

This is my only real gripe with the saw.


Well, I m actually really happy with my saw, except for this – and i wish it had 4 casters so it wasn t like shopping cart with the turning radius of the titanic….if not for this issue, I d be telling ppl go buy it, its pretty good. My issue is space – I need something that has wheels or can sit on a wheeled base.

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knotscott

7787 posts in 3213 days


#11 posted 12-16-2016 05:18 PM

Andrew – Apologies if this has been covered, but I didn’t read through all the posts of the two threads.

Regardless of how your measurements with the saw come out, how accurate are your pieces of cut wood? Assuming you rip a board that’s flat, square, straight (all critical aspects in good accuracy), how consistent is the ripped width? Conversely, are your crosscuts square?

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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AAANDRRREW

210 posts in 1010 days


#12 posted 12-16-2016 05:34 PM

Knotscott – They actually aren’t bad, but I have to spend alot of time aligning the blade to the slot – and if I change the blade, well, gotta do it all again it seems.

Longer cross cuts don’t do so well, but I did rip a 2.5’ long 3/4 ply the other night to test it, used the factory edge along the fence, it cut a straight line (by eye), flipped it over and ran my fresh cut along the fence making another cut and then when I measured the width at either end I was less than a 1/16 or about different – so really not the worse.

Just got off the phone with someone else at the repair shop and he said 0.005” wasn’t that bad, that he has seen new arbors show up with more runout than that…. I was shocked, isn’t 0.001” sort of the standard “good” spec? When I told him that 0.005” caused a 0.020” wobble on my blade he went through all the checks I already did and seem surprised it was that bad. (like marking the blade/arbor, trying different blades, cleaning the arbor surfaces etc). I’m not so hot on this response, but they are a very reputable shop in town. I’m hoping he just was confused and thought I meant blade runout was 0.005”.

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WhyMe

910 posts in 1398 days


#13 posted 12-16-2016 05:54 PM

You need to make sure you are in fact getting a good reading on the arbor flange. I had a hard time getting the dial indicator in a good position to take a reading on the arbor flange from the table top. I got a bumpy reading with a variation of .002 to .003 on the flange. With a magnetic base I was able to get the dial indicator under the table with a better straight on shot at the arbor flange and the reading was pretty stable at .001 +-. Taking readings from the table top to the blade I got .002+ variation close to the flange and .004+ variation at the outer edge of the blade.

I checked my saw more out of curiosity than seeing I was having a problem cutting square cuts. When does the run out really become a problem? I for sure haven’t made any high end stuff that some run out would cause a problem with. Plus we are talking about a $600 table saw. If it was a $2000+ saw then I may have higher expectations.

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AAANDRRREW

210 posts in 1010 days


#14 posted 12-16-2016 05:58 PM

whyme- I agree, so I do have a better gauge on order and will repeat the process. The one I used was a magnetic one, but it was limited in setup and reach, so I also had many readings that showed no variation whatsoever. I almost said screw it, it’s true, until i found the sweet spot and got my readings. I played around again for another 20 min because I wasn’t sure which readings were legit, until I found the sweet spot again and got the same exact readings.

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WhyMe

910 posts in 1398 days


#15 posted 12-16-2016 06:15 PM

As far as the 36-725 not showing up in the menu of saw selections, I think as said before being special made for Lowe’s is why it has fallen off the product list from Delta. You won’t even get the 36-725 to be listed if searching for parts by that model number. The 36-5000 as far as parts goes will fit the 36-725. You just can’t buy the 13A motor or the 2 part rails that come on the 36-725. And from what I see for the prices of some of the major parts it will be cheaper to buy a new saw.

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