Mounting an entertainment center

  • Advertise with us

« back to Designing Woodworking Projects forum

Forum topic by the_dave posted 08-09-2010 08:09 AM 2443 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View the_dave's profile


3 posts in 2810 days

08-09-2010 08:09 AM

I’m needing an experts advice. I built an entertainment center out of 1/2 plywood roughly 3 and 1/2 sheets (150 to 200lbs) and want to float it on my wall. What is the safest way to do this without making my wall fall down. I was thinking of attaching a 2×4 along the wall screwed into the studs and resting it on top of that and using 2inch screws to attach the backing along the way vertically. Maybe 4 “L” brackets up top for added support? HELP!

9 replies so far

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile


18244 posts in 3638 days

#1 posted 08-09-2010 08:58 AM

Better go with 3 or 3 1/2” #12 or 1/4” lags. Only the tip of 2” will be in the stud after you get through the 2×4 and the sheet rock.

-- Bob in WW ~ "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

View the_dave's profile


3 posts in 2810 days

#2 posted 08-09-2010 03:36 PM

Any idea how much weight a 2×4 attached to the wall would hold? Again this will be mounted to the wall with no visual means of support.

View kolwdwrkr's profile


2821 posts in 3553 days

#3 posted 08-09-2010 06:10 PM

skip the 2×4. It doesn’t do any thing. If the cabinet is going to pull away from the wall it will do so from the top, as the weight is in the front. The only advantage I see the 2×4 having is giving you a ledger to rest the cabinet on while you mount it.
It sounds like you have a 1/2” back? 3/4” would have been better in this case, but since that isn’t the case 1/2” will have to do. The first question would be how the back is attached to the case. The back is what is going to be fastened to the studs, and if it isn’t fastened to the cabinet securely then it wouldn’t matter if you used 12” lag bolts 4” on center. LOL.
If the back is secure to the case then I would fasten into as many studs as possible with 3” screws with washers. If you countersink the screw into the back there is a chance it will pull through, so using the washer gives it more strength. Where there isn’t a stud, use the drywall fasteners that have the wing that spreads as it is pushed through the drywall. I believe they are called Toggle Bolts.

-- ~ Inspiring those who inspire me ~

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile


18244 posts in 3638 days

#4 posted 08-09-2010 06:25 PM

I wouldn’t use drywall anchors on something that heavy that weight will be added to. Open the wall and install backing if yoiu don’t have studs where yoi uneed them.

BTW, Welocme to LJ!!

-- Bob in WW ~ "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

View CharlieM1958's profile


16274 posts in 4181 days

#5 posted 08-09-2010 06:26 PM

I agree with Keith. Surprisingly, in a setup like you are talking about, it doesn’t take all that much to keep the back on the wall because friction does most of the work. Your biggest worry is making sure the rest of the cabinet is secured well enough to the back. Since you said it is an entertainment center, I’m guessing it is deeper than a standard 12” wall cabinet.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View Gregn's profile


1642 posts in 2946 days

#6 posted 08-10-2010 04:38 AM

Welcome to LJ’s first off Dave. I agree with the back being key for this project. Screwing the back to the studs as mentioned is the way to go. I would also add to help carry the weight and help relieve stress on the joinery to the back being 1/2” plywood. To attach a angle iron ledger to the wall for the base of the back bottom to rest on to help carry the weight and then attach the back to the studs in the wall. This will help to prevent joint failure and be out of sight.

-- I don't make mistakes, I have great learning lessons, Greg

View the_dave's profile


3 posts in 2810 days

#7 posted 08-10-2010 05:12 AM

Thanks for the warm welcome! The backing of the entertainment center is 1/2” plywood as well. It’s divided into three sections two 5ft vertical boards and one 4ft horizontil board attached with #6 screws about 6 inces apart screwed all the way around. I was talking to a buddy of mine who use to frame houses and he suggested attached 4 2×8’s horizontal on the wall (attached to the studs with hex bolts) and to screw the backing of the entertainment center to the 2×8’s on the wall. This would also allow a gap to run wires behind the center.

View CaptainSkully's profile


1589 posts in 3521 days

#8 posted 08-10-2010 07:15 PM

What about a large set of French cleats bolted to the studs? That’s a very strong way to hang something. I used one on my mantle.

-- You can't control the wind, but you can trim your sails

View huff's profile


2828 posts in 3248 days

#9 posted 08-11-2010 02:33 AM

I also like the idea of the French cleats bolted to the studs. One along the top and one along the bottom. Depending on the depth of the stock you use to make the cleats will determine the gap between the back of your entertainment center and the wall. If they are mounted securely to the studs and the other half securely to the HEC, they should carry any weight you have and the more weight the more it pulls it back towards the wall.

-- John @

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics