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Forum topic by Gixxerjoe04 posted 12-14-2016 02:30 AM 682 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Gixxerjoe04

850 posts in 1416 days


12-14-2016 02:30 AM

So I’ve done a couple segmented bowls before, made a make shift disc sander on my lathe to flatten he rings down to glue it all together. Since my last segmented piece I bought a drum sander. So I was working on a new segmented bowl tonight, hoping my drum sander would speed things up and not leave an awful mess. Checked the rings before running them through and they didn’t seem wobbly or anything so figured they’d be fine. Ran them through, everything looked good until I went to glue the first one to the bottom piece/waste block. Dang thing isn’t level. Made sure the solid piece of wood was nice and flat with a sanding block. With the ring not being perfectly flat, used some double sided tape and taped it to a piece of plywood and ran it through thinking that might solve the problem which it did not. Tried flattening it on a piece of sander paper on my table saw and then running it through my drum sander, still not working. Don’t know what the dang problem is.
So how does everyone get the rings are nice and flat?

 photo 9B25417A-E176-455D-977E-F92F5145B8BC_zps8hrpy6ue.jpg


9 replies so far

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papadan

3584 posts in 3208 days


#1 posted 12-14-2016 03:05 AM

Sounds like you may be getting a little snipe ass the ring enters or exits the sander. I can’t advise on a fix because I don’t have a drum sander.

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Jack Lewis

208 posts in 917 days


#2 posted 12-14-2016 03:43 AM

I watched a video using something like this sled to stop snipe. The replaceable sides are replaced with each ring. They are sacrificial to each ring. Sorry about the crude sketch.

-- "Now we are getting no where, thanks to me"

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OSU55

1426 posts in 1829 days


#3 posted 12-14-2016 04:18 PM

Used to do like above, with a planer vs drum sander. I got some large flat jaws for finishing bowl bottoms, and now use the flat jaws to hold each layer and use scrapers and a flat board with sandpaper wrapped around it to get rings flat.

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Jack Lewis

208 posts in 917 days


#4 posted 12-14-2016 06:31 PM

I used to sand the rings but now I just hot glue them to a MDF piece, with concentric ring marks, on a faceplate and scraper/sand with a flat board. Then use it to center, glue and clamp onto the base assembly using the tailstock to apply pressure. Went this route because the Jet drum sander was such a bit*h to change the drum when the glue clogged the grit.

-- "Now we are getting no where, thanks to me"

View gwilki's profile

gwilki

170 posts in 1313 days


#5 posted 12-14-2016 10:25 PM

How does your sander perform on a planed, solid piece of wood? If I were you, I would start there. If you have planer and a jointer, joint one face of a board, then plane it. That way, you are running a board through your sander that already has flat parallel faces. If it comes out still with flat, parallel faces, you know your sander is ok and your problem stems from something off in the rings. If the board comes out bad from your sander, you know where to start trying to fix things.

If you don’t have a jointer and planer, so you can’t be sure that your test board is flat and with parallel sides, try a piece of MDF as your test board.

-- Grant Wilkinson, Ottawa ON

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jfoobar

44 posts in 1170 days


#6 posted 12-14-2016 10:47 PM

Honestly, I use a drum sander (Performax/Jet 1632) and have never experienced the issue you are having.

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Gixxerjoe04

850 posts in 1416 days


#7 posted 12-15-2016 09:30 PM

It seems there’s a dip in center of the rings, so obviously from my sander. Just gotta figure out how exactly to fix the problem. Not sure if i was taking too much off a pass or the in and out feed rollers are part of the problem. Still new to using the drum sander which is part of the problem haha. Might make a new sanding disc for my lathe since the last one was on my old lathe, make sure one side is exactly flat and go from there with my drum sander. Just hate the disc method because the amount of dust it makes and I don’t have a pipe for my dc by my lathe yet.

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Lee

95 posts in 717 days


#8 posted 12-16-2016 12:29 AM

You might have to adjust the drum sander. I check mine ever so often and make sure it’s still parallel. I use an inside micrometer to see if the drum is parallel to the table across the entire length of the drum. hope this helps.

-- Colombia Custom woodworking

View Eric S.'s profile

Eric S.

40 posts in 460 days


#9 posted 12-17-2016 07:17 PM

As others have mentioned, make sure the sander is parallel to the table. Sometimes with open ended ones like my Performax 16-32 (pre-Jet model), one side will dip down a bit. Also, make very light passes with a fine grit paper and see if that helps.

Once you use the sander for awhile, you’ll know by the sound if you took a bit more than you wanted off. I usually move my piece through by hand with the sander off until it moves the drum slightly, then I turn it on and run it through. Make minor adjustments and make more passes until you get a feel for it. Once you get used to it, you’ll be able to crank it down just right, but until then, make a lot of small passes to get used to it.

-- Why waste the money buying it, when I can spend twice as much on new tools, a week online researching new techniques, and a month building it.

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