using taper jig

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Forum topic by Karda posted 12-08-2016 03:43 AM 842 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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1303 posts in 730 days

12-08-2016 03:43 AM

Hi, I made a taper jig but I can’t cut the angle because the angle is to long, are there any articles on how to use and layout a taper jig all I can find is how to make the jig

12 replies so far

View MrUnix's profile


7005 posts in 2375 days

#1 posted 12-08-2016 04:24 AM

I have no idea what you mean by “the angle is too long”... you need to explain it a bit better. As for videos… I googled for it and turned up a bunch. This one was the first or second result:

Using a Taper Jig

And maybe a picture of your jig would help as well.


-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View Karda's profile


1303 posts in 730 days

#2 posted 12-08-2016 05:08 AM

thanks for the reminder about uTube, I ll set it up and take a picture

View Karda's profile


1303 posts in 730 days

#3 posted 12-08-2016 05:34 AM

here is the jig set up and the board I want to cut, I opened the jig further than the stops and still could not get it to line up.

View OSU55's profile


1927 posts in 2165 days

#4 posted 12-08-2016 12:51 PM

For that large of a taper angle use a miter gauge. Flip the board around so the angle is closer to perpendicular to the blade, if that makes sense.

View gargey's profile


1013 posts in 951 days

#5 posted 12-08-2016 01:13 PM

Buy a handsaw.

View TFA's profile


10 posts in 775 days

#6 posted 12-08-2016 02:01 PM

so you’re saying that the jig runs off the table before the cut is finished in the board? then you need to cut some material off the jig (off the arm that rotates) so that you can move the fence closer to the blade

View bondogaposis's profile


5055 posts in 2527 days

#7 posted 12-08-2016 02:15 PM

Buy a handsaw.

Yeah, sometimes table saw set ups are too complicated to be efficient. That is where hand tools shine. If you can draw the line on board the cut can be made with out complicated set up or jigs. Think about it, you could have made that cut w/ a hand saw and cleaned it up w/ a plane in less than half the time it took to make the taper jig and you are still trying to figure how to use it.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View bandit571's profile


21543 posts in 2859 days

#8 posted 12-08-2016 03:47 PM

Maybe one of these?

Can be set at any angle up to a 45 degree cut, and will make as many repeat cuts as you need.

Even cuts like these..

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View HokieKen's profile


6613 posts in 1314 days

#9 posted 12-08-2016 05:54 PM

Flip the board end for end so your line is on the bottom at the back. Now you’ll be cutting the shallower angle rather than the steeper.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View Loren's profile


10477 posts in 3824 days

#10 posted 12-08-2016 06:52 PM

Screw your board to a piece of rectangular plywood
with the part you want to cut off protruding over
the edge. Set the fence equal to the width of the
ply piece and rip off the excess.

This is one of the more annoying type cuts to
figure out on a standard table saw. Some miter
gauges pivot further than 45 degrees each
way and these aftermarket gauges make such
cuts easier to figure out. Unfortunately such
gauges probably won’t fit your miter slot but
in any case the board trick I described above
should work.

View Karda's profile


1303 posts in 730 days

#11 posted 12-08-2016 08:05 PM

hi thanks for your suggestions, Ill try to flip the board. The reason I dont use a hand saw is I suck at hand saw and plane but I may have to do that. I am finding out the hard way about this saw. The big disadvantage is the miter guage is very sloppy and the mire slot is substandard. It is a t slot and measures 5/8ths x about 1/4

View bandit571's profile


21543 posts in 2859 days

#12 posted 12-08-2016 08:25 PM

Build a “Speed Square” and use a circular saw..

Then measure the distance between the saw blade, and the edge of the circular saw’s bottom plate, mark a lineas to where the fence/square goes. Keep the edge of the saw’s base against the fence/square. It will guide the cut in a straight line, regardless of what angle the cut needs to be.

Just three piecs of scrap wood. As long as the factory corner of the plywood is square, and the edges are straight. How tall a fence? use whatever width/height scrap you want, as long as it is fastened along the long edge as straight as you can make it.

This one was made as a replacement for a jobsite tablesaw. 2 “C” clamps would hold the back edge to the saw’s rail. There is a cleat underneath the square, to keep the “fence” square to the saw’s blade.

The cleat rides on the rails.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

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