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Forum topic by Hornnumb2 posted 12-05-2016 08:48 PM 545 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Hornnumb2

19 posts in 662 days


12-05-2016 08:48 PM

What do I need to use for a natural finish for some oak picture frames? Thanks Michael


17 replies so far

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Fred Hargis

4756 posts in 2327 days


#1 posted 12-05-2016 08:56 PM

When someone says “natural finish” I assume (maybe incorrectly) they just mean a finish without coloring (dyes, stains). I seldom stain oak, and like the look of an oil based varnish on it. But the oil based does have some color shift toward the “warmer” look. The warm look comes from the linseed oil used to make the varnish, and to minimize that I almost always use Pratt and Lambert 38 varnish, which is much less amber. It’s made with soya oil instead of linseed, giving it that attribute. But if you want no color at all, I’d suggest a good quality waterborne. Some of them are tinted slightly to mimic oil finishes, but many are water clear…..maybe that’s what you mean by “natural”.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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Hornnumb2

19 posts in 662 days


#2 posted 12-05-2016 09:28 PM

Yeah I wasn’t sure what word to use to get my question across. I do want a finish with out staining it.

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DrDirt

4407 posts in 3575 days


#3 posted 12-05-2016 09:36 PM

Like Fred – flood on the Boiled Linseed oil.
Be careful not to start a fire from balling up the rags and throwing them in a traash can.

I wipe the oil with a scott towel, then I spread it on the rim of the trash can.
The oil needs time to cure.

when done – I use a piece of 600 grit wet/dry on a cork block and knock off the bumbs and dust bits. Takes 5 or six strokes. (you don’t want to make light spots where you got rid of the oil)

Then I spray it with Lacquer. I have a gallon can of Deft Brushing lacquer that I thin ~20% and spray in a cheap HVLP gun from Harbor Freight. but for a picture frame – I would just use a rattle can of lacquer or Shellac.

-- “The two most important days in your life are the day you are born and the day you find out why.” Mark Twain

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Hornnumb2

19 posts in 662 days


#4 posted 12-06-2016 03:53 PM

So after the linseed oil I do need to top coat with shellac or lacquer?

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bondogaposis

4475 posts in 2184 days


#5 posted 12-06-2016 04:00 PM

Simplify your life and just use Arm R Seal, It is a mixture of BLO and varnish, wipes on, 2-3 coats and you are dome.

-- Bondo Gaposis

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9x9

60 posts in 1073 days


#6 posted 12-06-2016 04:13 PM


Simplify your life and just use Arm R Seal, It is a mixture of BLO and varnish, wipes on, 2-3 coats and you are dome.

- bondogaposis

That’s what I would do——-> Arm R Seal (satin) use it on all my finishes —— great product

-- Youngsville, LA

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bigJohninvegas

382 posts in 1295 days


#7 posted 12-06-2016 04:17 PM

I’m a fan of danish oil myself. Very user friendly.

-- John

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Fred Hargis

4756 posts in 2327 days


#8 posted 12-06-2016 04:35 PM

You will want to topcoat the BLO, but truthfully on a picture frame there is no need. An easy top coat would be rattle can lacquer (if you have a place to spray it). It will dry fast and have a nice smooth surface. Be sure to wait at least a day or more before topping the BLO, should you choose to use it. It might pay to test a piece of scrap to see if that’s the look you want. If you want to try danish oil, it’s simply a mix of BLO and varnish; you can buy it or mix your own.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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Hornnumb2

19 posts in 662 days


#9 posted 12-14-2016 07:15 PM

OK got me some Arm-R-Seal, is it OK to do a coat a day or is that too long to wait between them? Thanks

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MrUnix

5975 posts in 2032 days


#10 posted 12-14-2016 07:29 PM

I’ve made a bunch of oak picture frames (and other stuff – lots of oak around here!) and usually use wipe-on-poly on them. Can easily be done in a day (multiple coats), and then cure overnight. It does give it a slight amber hue, but not bad and I think it enhances the grain a bit better than Danish oil.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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Hornnumb2

19 posts in 662 days


#11 posted 12-14-2016 07:42 PM

I work everyday and need to do the coats at night, after 6 in the evening.

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Fred Hargis

4756 posts in 2327 days


#12 posted 12-14-2016 07:44 PM

Some finishes have a specific window for re coating, like before 4 hours and after 24. Check the label but I’m sure you’re good to go.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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MrUnix

5975 posts in 2032 days


#13 posted 12-14-2016 07:46 PM

I work everyday and need to do the coats at night, after 6 in the evening.
- Hornnumb2

That’s when I do mine as well :)

With wipe-on, it’s anywhere between 15 minutes up to about an hour until dry to the touch, then you slap on another coat. Initial coats dry really, really fast (like minutes depending on the wood). I can easily get 4-6 coats on in just a couple hours.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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LittleShaver

201 posts in 453 days


#14 posted 12-14-2016 11:04 PM

I mix 1/3 BLO 1/3 quick dry poly and 1/3 mineral spirits. Wipe it on. Pops the grain, warms the color, and adds a bit of a film finish. For a picture frame, I’d probably stop there, but for something that will get more use: Additional coats are 1/2 poly and 1/2 mineral spirits, also wiped on.

I also usually add a coat of paste wax. Looks good and feels nice.

Most of my projects are relatively small, so not worth spraying and brushes and I don’t play well together.

-- Sawdust Maker

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Hornnumb2

19 posts in 662 days


#15 posted 01-11-2017 02:31 AM

Thanks for everybody’s help. Here is the finished project.

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