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TS sled when blade is at 45 degrees

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Forum topic by Steve K posted 01-12-2008 05:35 PM 1062 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Steve K

6 posts in 2477 days


01-12-2008 05:35 PM

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw jig sled

I have a question about safely making 45 degree edge miters.

I made a small table saw sled for normal crosscutting jobs. Most of my projects are small, and I routed a tee-slot for clamps on the sled, so my fingers stay well away from the blade. The sled has helped my accuracy, and it feels a lot safer.

I’m thinking about making a sled in the same fashion to use when I tilt the blade to 45 degrees to make miters, like when making a box. I have a delta contractors saw, with the blade tilting towards the right. Is there any safety issue in using a sled, when the blade is set to 45 degree angle?

Thanks

-- Steve


5 replies so far

View Betsy's profile

Betsy

2914 posts in 2582 days


#1 posted 01-12-2008 05:52 PM

Steve – I use a TS sled all the time for miter cuts. It’s quite safe. There are a variety of styles of sleds. I use my sled that I also use for general cross cuts. It’s very accurate.

-- Like a bad penny, I keep coming back!

View gizmodyne's profile

gizmodyne

1763 posts in 2776 days


#2 posted 01-12-2008 05:54 PM

Just design your sled so that your hands can’t go near the blade. Make it higher where the blade goes up. You can also make a miter sled with the support fences set at 45 so that the blade is straight 90 and the pieces are set. Then you can cut matching miters. I believe this is the preferred method.

-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne

View Steve K's profile

Steve K

6 posts in 2477 days


#3 posted 01-12-2008 06:07 PM

Thanks for the quick replies!

Would you use the single runner design, where the cut-off would fall on the TS table, or the double runner design where the right side of the sled would carry the cut-off past the blade?

I seems like with the blade tilted to 45, there sure is more chance of the cut-off getting trapped when it’s cut.

Steve

-- Steve

View GaryK's profile

GaryK

10262 posts in 2674 days


#4 posted 01-12-2008 06:11 PM

I like to cut with the cutoff under the blade. That way it will always fall away from the blade, and
not land on top of it.

-- Gary - Never pass up the opportunity to make a mistake look like you planned it that way - Tyler, TX

View LONGHAIR's profile

LONGHAIR

94 posts in 2500 days


#5 posted 01-12-2008 06:50 PM

GaryK is quite right about getting rid of the off-cut piece. Even small pieces can be thrown by a spinning blade.

Also (since you mentioned in the original post) the intent of this is precision edge miters, I would rough cut my parts close to size and then cut the miters. You will get a much nicer cut if it is just a light trim. You really don’t want big pieces falling anyway.

I built a rig one time when I needed to cut a lot of little cubes. They were 3/4” basically square, angled on two sides, trapeziods really. I started with 3/4” x 3/4 stock and was cross-cutting the slight angles. I built a small three sided channel, like a gutter I_I, it was 4”-5” wide and about 6” long. I clamped it to the rip fence and used the opposite vertical face as a length stop. This left a 4”-5” wide channel between the blade and that fence. I clipped a small blow gun (air nozzle) to the fence, blowing at the cut-off pieces. Cut them with a cross-cut sled or miter gauge and when they drop, the air blows them out onto the outfeed table. You can cut dozens of parts this way w/o stopping between cuts.

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