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Moving a Unisaw downstairs

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Forum topic by hairy posted 12-01-2016 01:42 AM 689 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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hairy

2586 posts in 3370 days


12-01-2016 01:42 AM

I have a 1989 Unisaw, 34-802, that I want to move to the basement. I’m getting a used 8” x 27” cast iron extension that will match the one I have. I have the manpower and a hand truck. I plan on taking off the top, and hopefully leaving the rest as is. Is that all? I barely remember, from another post somewhere, about shims under the bolts, and they must go back to where they were. Is that true? I have not taken the table off yet. I checked youtube and didn’t see anything about it.

I will also have to solve a fence problem. Currently it has a 52” Biesemeyer fence and rails. It will not be going back on. Most of what I do I can do with sleds. I can clamp a straightedged board to the table temporarily for a rip fence. I’ve been watching cl for a used fence for a while, that probably won’t be happening. My luck, it will turn up after I’ve done something else. I’m thinking about cutting the rails down to the size I will need. The fence is usable, but has some scars, I don’t think the value is a deal breaker.

After it’s all bolted together , the table will be 36 & 1/4” x 27”. What size fence does this call for?

What would you do? Any and all advice is appreciated. Thanks.


http://lumberjocks.com/hairy/blog/11363

-- My reality check bounced...


8 replies so far

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

6006 posts in 2037 days


#1 posted 12-01-2016 02:05 AM

You probably don’t need to take off the whole table… just the fence and extension wings, along with anything else that will easily come off like the motor cover and stuff. With a hand cart and two people, it should be pretty easy. As for the fence… you can cut them down, or go to your local metal supplier and buy some shorter ones if you don’t want to destroy the original rails and guide tube. You will have to paint them and stick on a ruler though if you go that route. Here are the dimensions for the stock commercial systems:


(From the 1990 Biesemeyer manual)

Cheers,
Brad

PS: If you do take off the table, do keep an eye out for the shims – but very few actually have any, so don’t be surprised if yours doesn’t either. Also, mark the table location so you can put it back close to where it is… straight edge along the blade and some masking tape works well.

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View mahdee's profile

mahdee

3828 posts in 1605 days


#2 posted 12-01-2016 04:13 AM

My wife and I just moved a 500 pound table saw to my shop 23 stairs up. Tied it to a dolly; I pulled as she used a 2×4 as a leverage from the bottom to raise it up.

-- earthartandfoods.com

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

4761 posts in 2331 days


#3 posted 12-01-2016 11:49 AM

I agree, you should be able to dolly it down the stairs. In fact, it might be easier to do upside down. Tip the saw over onto it’s table and then use the 2 wheeler. If you do that, of course you would want to pad the top to keep it from getting scratched, you would also want to secure the motor.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View Roger's profile

Roger

20874 posts in 2642 days


#4 posted 12-01-2016 12:42 PM

Careful with the equipment, but, more importantly, be careful of your back

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Keep your dust collector fed. Kentuk55@yahoo.com

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hairy

2586 posts in 3370 days


#5 posted 12-01-2016 05:12 PM

Thanks for the good info. Keeping the top on and loading it upside are things I had not considered.

I might have the fence issue solved. I just picked up the table extension this morning. He had a fence he took off a Unisaw 2 years older than mine. It’s made by Delta, has round, chrome tubes. The markings went up to 25”, but it is longer than that. We might be making a deal , he’s looking for what I have.

Roger, I got 2 strong young guys to do this, I won’t feel a thing.

-- My reality check bounced...

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hairy

2586 posts in 3370 days


#6 posted 12-20-2016 05:34 PM

Update. Who knows, maybe someone wants to know.

I took off the top, the crank handles and the motor. It was light enough for me and my son to dolly it down the steps. I took off the handles and motor to make it easier to get through doors.

Before:

After:

I have a short section of dc hose attached to the saw, and a quick disconnect on the dc. Much better.

-- My reality check bounced...

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MrUnix

6006 posts in 2037 days


#7 posted 12-20-2016 05:54 PM

Looks like you got the Jet-lock fence from your buddy… as long as it hasn’t been abused, they are perfectly fine fences when adjusted properly. The one major complaint about them is that you can’t just lift them up and off of the saw, and have to slide it off the ends of the tubes if you need to remove it. I have the same fence on mine, as well as a Biesemeyer sitting over in the corner of the shop. With similar space constraints as you have, the Biesemeyer will just have to wait until I get more room :)

Follow the adjustment instructions in the manual so the rear hook doesn’t engage until after the front cam locks down. At least if that is a Jet-lock and not the previous incarnation (micro-set) of that fence.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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hairy

2586 posts in 3370 days


#8 posted 12-20-2016 11:02 PM

Yes. jet lock. It’s a little fussy but it should work out.

I also took off the electric box to make it as small as possible. It’s too cold to be taking doors off the hinges to get through.

Thanks for the help!!

-- My reality check bounced...

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