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Caliper for blade alignment? Suggestions needed

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Forum topic by LucasWoods posted 11-27-2016 10:52 PM 456 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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LucasWoods

332 posts in 1171 days


11-27-2016 10:52 PM

What do you all use to square your TS blades and other blades in the shop? I have done some research and pretty much settled on a digital caliper… if you got one or use something else let me know how you like it

-- Colorado Springs, CO


10 replies so far

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Redoak49

2903 posts in 1827 days


#1 posted 11-27-2016 11:08 PM

I use a high precision steel square to align to 90 degrees as a set up. For lots of other things use a digital tilt box.

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Rick_M

10634 posts in 2218 days


#2 posted 11-27-2016 11:26 PM

I used to use a machinist square, now I use a Wixey. I like the Wixey better and my joints are tighter.

-- http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

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HokieKen

4515 posts in 977 days


#3 posted 11-28-2016 01:33 AM

Same here, Wixey box. Machinists square on occasion.

I’m not sure we understand what you mean by square though. We’re thinking square to table on the tilt. Not sure how you would swing that with a caliper though. A little more explanation may get you better answers.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

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MrUnix

6006 posts in 2037 days


#4 posted 11-28-2016 01:42 AM

Not sure how you would swing that with a caliper though.

I was asking myself the same thing. I just use a combination square that I’m sure is square. For the TS, you only have to do it once. For the others (band saw, scroll saw…), the smaller size is required to get up to the blade without hitting the guides/clamps.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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brtech

1006 posts in 2761 days


#5 posted 11-28-2016 02:35 AM

You can use a caliper with a jig to make sure the blade is parallel to the miter slot and the fence is parallel to the miter slot. Usually, however, we use a dial indicator with a jig for that. I have a jig to use with my caliper for that task. It holds the caliper at a nominal 90 degrees to the miter slot, and you use the tail of the caliper touching the blade near a tooth, zero the caliper, swing the blade over 180 degrees, slide up the jig and measure the distance to the same spot on the blade. Zero difference means the miter slot is parallel to the blade. If it’s not, you loosen your trunnions and move the arbor relative to the top (and thus the miter slots).

I use an iGauging equivalent of the Wixley, or an engineer’s square.

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Rick_M

10634 posts in 2218 days


#6 posted 11-28-2016 03:33 AM

You can use a dial indicator to set a blade square to the table but it’s a two step process and you need a known good square to set up the dial indicator.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/84217

Click for details

-- http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

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HokieKen

4515 posts in 977 days


#7 posted 11-28-2016 12:30 PM



You can use a dial indicator to set a blade square to the table but it s a two step process and you need a known good square to set up the dial indicator.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/84217

Click for details

- Rick M

You could use that jig with a caliper too. Wouldn’t be quite as accurate and making a mount is a bit more involved but it’s definitely do-able.

FWIW, I use essentially the same jig as Rick shows in his project above except mine’s just for alignment, I’ve never used it to set the blade angle. You could also use it to set precise blade angles with a little trig’.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

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Redoak49

2903 posts in 1827 days


#8 posted 11-28-2016 12:52 PM

Very interesting idea with dial indicator and very accurate check.

The dial indicator is an excellent and low cost tool for all kinds of machine set up. Building jigs to use it with greatly increases flexibility.

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ChefHDAN

992 posts in 2688 days


#9 posted 11-28-2016 01:24 PM

For doing the alignments of the blades and fence I really like the Woodpecker Saw Gauge , I bought it when I saw it for $49 at Peach tree i think, i see it right now most places for $70. I have dial indicators and have used the combo square but have found that this tool is super quick and simple to come out of the box and either double check alignment of correct alignment, I’d say it easily cuts the time in half from using the other tools, but then I’m not a machinist.

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

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MrRon

4496 posts in 3082 days


#10 posted 11-28-2016 06:12 PM

Use a combination square to set the blade parallel with the miter slot. Mark a tooth on the blade and with that tooth close to the front, adjust the square with the head riding along the slot until it just scrapes the tooth. Then rotate the blade so the same tooth is at the rear of the table and repeat. Feeler gauges are useful.

To set the fence parallel to the blade, rip a piece of scrap wood or plywood about 2 or 3” wide by at least 12” long and measure both ends of the ripped wood with a caliper, either digital or dial is fine.

To set the blade 90° to the table top, use a small machinist’s square, placed against the “plate” portion of the blade (not against a tooth). The combination square may also work.

To set the miter gauge 90° to the blade, place the square, either one with the head against the miter gauge haed with the blade against the flat side of the blade. Be careful as to not touch any teeth.

To set angles, I use a Wixey tilt box.

As far as the tools you will need, it can all be done with a combination square, a caliper and an angle setting device like a Wixey.

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