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JessEm Rout-R-Plate

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Forum topic by Vrtigo1 posted 1487 days ago 2173 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Vrtigo1

430 posts in 1619 days


1487 days ago

Working on putting together an entry level router table, and looking at the JessEm Rout-R-Plate:

http://www.amazon.com/JessEm-03100-Rout-R-Plate-Router-Mounting/dp/B00092CPW0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1280259349&sr=8-3

I have a Hitachi M12V and have read some reviews of people using it with this plate with good results.

Couple questions…if I use the template linked below to rout out the opening in my table top, do I need anything more than a straight cutting bit and a a collar guide for my router? Anyone know what size collar I’d need? I can’t seem to find that info anywhere.

Is there anything else that I’d need to get the router and plate installed in the table, other than perhaps some longer bolts to attach the router to the plate?


11 replies so far

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live4ever

983 posts in 1637 days


#1 posted 1487 days ago

Are you planning on drilling/tapping the holes to attach the router yourself?

You didn’t link the template… :)

Personally I didn’t want to futz around with collars, so I just got a 1/2” pattern bit from MLCS ($13 incl. free shipping). The bit that is typically recommended for this application has a shorter cutting length (1/2”). But I had at least two plates to install (one in TS wing and one in router table) so it seemed like a worthwhile bit investment.

-- Optimists are usually disappointed. Pessimists are either right or pleasantly surprised. I tend to be a disappointed pessimist.

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Vrtigo1

430 posts in 1619 days


#2 posted 1487 days ago

Yes, I was planning on drilling it myself. I don’t have access to the link for the template right now but it’s essentially an MDF cutout that the router wouldride on top of.

View Jim Jakosh's profile

Jim Jakosh

11299 posts in 1733 days


#3 posted 1487 days ago

I used a Woodpecker quick lift and I did not have a template for the router plate. so I just measured the plate and clamped down 4 pieces of wood to make a square box to guide my router w/ a 1/2”bit using the 6” base as the gage inside the wood box. It worked just fine. They have tapped holes in the plate for leveling screws so I put hard screw heads under them so the levelers did not dig into the wood. But that was not all I had to do.
The quick lift has a rod to cam the lifting screw so you can just pull the router up to change bits. When doing this , it lifts the plate a bit and sawdust can get under it, so I drilled 4 holes in the plate and countersunk them and added screws to hold the plate in place. It has never been so good!

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

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Vrtigo1

430 posts in 1619 days


#4 posted 1487 days ago

Hey Jim, yeah I thought about doing that (just clamping the boards to create a square), but the only problem there is that if the plate has rounded corners, the board method results in a square recess, so there’s some area in the corners that are recessed and not covered by the plate. Probably doesn’t matter functionally, but aesthetically that’s what led me to purchase the template.

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live4ever

983 posts in 1637 days


#5 posted 1487 days ago

I’ve had really bad luck with templates. The one I got for my Rockler plate (from Rockler) created a hole that was 1/16” oversize on all sides. I ordered an Eagle PVC template for a Woodpecker phenolic plate that looked like it was cut out by scissors and was wildly larger than the plate along one edge. Hope you have better luck…

-- Optimists are usually disappointed. Pessimists are either right or pleasantly surprised. I tend to be a disappointed pessimist.

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Dan Lyke

1470 posts in 2752 days


#6 posted 1487 days ago

Vrtigo1, if you use a pattern bit with a top bearing, where the bit is the same radius as the corners of the mounting plate, then the clamped boards (or carpet taped boards, or a poor man's version of the Festool MFS [1]) result in a cutout with rounded corners, just like the router plate.

[1] I wouldn’t do this with the actual MFS because those bearings are rarely so dead on that I’d trust ‘em to not chew a little bit of aluminum…

-- Dan Lyke, Petaluma California, http://www.flutterby.net/User:DanLyke

View jcwalleye's profile

jcwalleye

290 posts in 1700 days


#7 posted 1487 days ago

I’ve got the template and instructions for mounting the Jessem Mast-R-Plate. The plate itself if 9-1/4” x 11-3/4”. The template opening is 12”x9”.

The instructions say to use a 3/4 inch O.D. template guide bushing and a 1/2”straight cutter, route the recess using the inside of the template as a guide. NOTE: Recess should be 3/8 ” or slightly deeper.

With a jigsaw cut the inside edge of the recess you just created. When done you should then be left with a recessed lip of 1/2” and 3/8” deep.

Since the plate has a different name, I’d recommend checking the thickness of your plate before setting the depth. Route it just a tad deeper and use the leveling screws to raise the plate flush to the table top.

-- Trees, a wonderful gift --Joe--

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Vrtigo1

430 posts in 1619 days


#8 posted 1481 days ago

The template arrived today and I cut out the opening in the table for the plate. It worked pretty well, however when I set the plate in the opening, I’d estimate there’s about 1/16” of play. I.E. if I push the plate all the way to the left, there’s about 1/16” between the right side of the plate and the right side of the opening. It doesn’t feel like it would move while in use, but I was wondering if this is normal?

View Dan Lyke's profile

Dan Lyke

1470 posts in 2752 days


#9 posted 1481 days ago

I’ve just got the lift, not the plate, but doesn’t it have the pieces underneath you can adjust to stop the play? Then you’ll have a small gap, but that’s nothing to worry about.

-- Dan Lyke, Petaluma California, http://www.flutterby.net/User:DanLyke

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Vrtigo1

430 posts in 1619 days


#10 posted 1480 days ago

Hi Dan, it might. I didn’t see anything, but then again I wasn’t looking for anything either. I’ll have to check it tonight.

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Vrtigo1

430 posts in 1619 days


#11 posted 1479 days ago

There wasn’t anything to stop the side to side play, but once I put the leveling screws in and adjusted it flush with the top of the table it really doesn’t move much at all.

What I ended up doing was doing one pass around the template with the straight bit at about 1/4” depth, then without removing the template, I cut around the inside edge of the groove with my jigsaw to remove the center waste and set the plate in the cutout to see how much more material I needed to remove. Then I adjusted the bit to be slightly deeper, ran it again, checked the depth with the plate and continued repeating the process until the plate sat about 1/16” below the surface of the table. Then I leveled it out with the leveling screws and am very happy with how it turned out.

All in all the JessEm plate worked really well. It was easy to drill and countersync the mounting holes on the drill press, and the fit in the table is good.

The only router I had a 3/4 OD collar for doesn’t have a speed setting, so I was worried that I might end up burning the wood, but going slow and removing the material over a few passes seemed to avoid that. The sawdust was still blazing hot, but I don’t have any burn marks.

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